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Everything posted by JamesRich
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You are probably running a bit rich. Do you have any exhaust leaks? When you let off the gas a vacuum forms in the exhaust and fresh air gets sucked in through any leaks you have. The fresh air mixes with the unburnt fuel from the rich fuel mixture and the heat of the exhaust ignites. James
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The problem with painting a vehicle with a rattle can is over spray. With flat colors the over spray blends in so it doesn't mater but a gloss paint job would look nasty with shiny and dull spots. Most of the work with a paint job goes into body work and all the masking off the parts you don't want painted. To prevent over spray when painting the entire vehicle you must spray it fast enough to cover the whole vehicle while its still wet. You could try one panel at a time but you would still need to be fast and be in a closed in area with no wind. If you can paint decent with a rattle can get yourself a cheap harbor freight spray gun. It's considered junk by professionals but will definitely spray better than a rattle can and has much higher flow rate so you can prevent the over spray. You must mix the paint correctly for it to spray good but you can look all this up on google. James
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What is bad for them when cranked up is the stud on the ball can hit the side of the pocket the ball rides in and break it. I doubt the front suspension can go low enough to hit the other side of the pocket. James
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I've been searching for day! Someone posted a link to a chart that listed vehicles with the same spring diameter as our rear springs (WD21). It was a pretty large list. It was posted on one of the spring threads and I thought I had saved it but cant find it. I have been searching for days so maybe one of you guys will remember for me. James
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Thats the problem I read about, if the side gear shims are worn too much it will not disengage. I guess no other replies means no other problems. Good news! James
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I just ordered a lockright for my 87. I searched and read everything I could find and the only problem I have seen was with the side gear washer thickness causing the pins to break. I read in the FSM how to check the clearance and it looks like I will have to check it after it is assembled and then order the correct washers. Has anyone run into any other problems that I might want to remedy when I do my install? I see you guys have been running them since 04 so y'all would know of any other problem with them by now. I dont want to have to pull this thing again I hate doing things twice, and really don't have the time either. James
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Odometer and Speedometer Compensation for 33's?
JamesRich replied to EmptyV's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
You could try something like this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-SGI-5/ The only problem I have seen using these is on newer trucks (04 and up Titan) the computer receives its speed signal from the trans sensor and the anti lock brake sensors. If there is too much difference between the two sensors (I think the computer only allows for 3%) the cruse will not work and a few other problems, some time a cel light. I think this only applys to drive by wire vehicles though. James -
I would have pulled both heads at the same time. Even if the valves were not bent, they could be lapped so they seal just as good as the new side. Then you know your top end is all fresh. Course if you don't mind the extra work and gaskets to tear it down again. James
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The belt could have stripped some teeth and slipped some then started turning again. I changed the valves on a 88 sentra that did this at 50,000 miles. James
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Thanks man, not too many people recognize what it is because of its size. It's the 75th anniversary edition 4 piece set. I bought it new in 95, shows how old I am. Its in storage now since I had to give up the heavy truck repair because I screwed up my knee, no more heavy lifting all day long. I still work on all my own vehicles and families so I couldn't part with it. I miss always having a nice shop to work in. James Here's the full size pic
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swapping maxima dual cooling fan to pathfinder?
JamesRich replied to ahardb0dy's topic in General Forums
How about a link to that Nissan surplus site you mentioned? James -
Thanks ahardbody I had been looking for a place to get some of this for when I install my roof rack. Last time I needed some I got it from a windshield installer, but they don't like to sell it to just anyone. James
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You certainly got a nice shop to work on it in! James
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I think there is a 1 wire plug going to the ignition switch if you drop the steering column cover. If you just remove this wire the chime won't sound when you have the key in the ignition but will still warn you about leaving your lights on. I'm not positive because I haven't dug into the pathy yet but have done this on other imports. James
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That peel and seal is all I can find at lowes or home depot around here. I couldn't find the mid ply stuff I found mentioned in another thread. It might not be sold around here, it's not often we have ice on our roof in this part of the country. I got a roll of the peel and seal and will see how that works. James
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You may need more than just valves, you should have at least over 150 psi per cylinder. Sounds like your rings are shot too. James
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My wife's 01 quest has a VCR in the center console so it would be useless in a pathy. VCRs are now useless in the quest. The quest has taller seats so the console might be too high for a pathy anyways. James
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very confused, mechanic says my timing belt is metal?
JamesRich replied to zelix's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
I know y'all will chew on me for this one but I have never replaced the water pump and idler pulley when changing a timing belt even the ones where the timing belt drives the water pump. I have replace the belt when changing a water pump if I had to take it off. I did mechanic work for 17 years and never had an idler fail after changing the belt. I never owned a shop so I was just doing what the boss said. I don't do it on my personal vehicles because I don't mind taking it back apart if I have to but still never had a problem. James -
I knew one of y'all had done the roof with this stuff. This is the one from the hardware store that you didn't have to heat right? So it stayed in place and was still stuck when you removed it? James
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Does dynamat or the alternate roofing material insulate that well? Also once stuck to the roof will it stay? I would be concerned that sitting in the sun would melt the tar and let it drop off. I'd hate to come back to my pathy in a parking lot and find that the liner fell and I had sticky tar all over everything. I have all the panels out of my pathy right now to install the roof rack so now would be the best time to put it. James
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The lines on the timing belt won't line up again but every two turns of the motor the timing mark on the crank and the marks on the cam pulleys and timing cover should line up. James
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You could gain from any engine by degreeing the cams. It is impossible for a cam to line up exactly as it was designed on every engine, especially with timing belts. Usually they are close enough but to get the maximum efficiency out of your cams you would need to degree them. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81621/10002/-1 A kit like this and some eccentrics is usually how the race engine builders do it. These adjustable pulleys would do some good but you would need to set them with a degree wheel to get the most accurate results. On our trucks with a belt that will stretch the gain really wouldn't be worth it unless your engine had alot of mod with a really high lift cam. This is more for racing than a 4x4 that needs more torque. James
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That looks like one of those power chips that are sold on ebay. It's just a resistor in there that fools the MAF sensor to think more air is going into the motor so the computer adds more fuel. Some people claim they work, I think reprogramming the computer is the only way to properly adjust fuel mixtures. James
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You have leaves in the blower motor squirrel cage. It sits upright like a bowl to catch everything that comes in. Pull your resistor and clean it and the box then drop the blower motor to the right of the resistor and clean it out. This happens to alot of vehicles. James
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I just placed an order with KMA yesterday. I was told 4 to 5 weeks to start the next run and 5 to 7 days after the bumper should ship. I don't mind waiting a little longer then what they told me as long as I get a good product and it is here before hunting season. A new member just posted a pic of his KMA bumper and it look really good. Hopefully I wont have to wait too long. I have other things to work on to keep me busy. James
