JamesRich

Thats great news, talk about dodging a bullet! Lucky for you the belt jumped instead of breaking. Sounds like you broke a boss off the oil pump. I would think as long as there is no oil leak and the timing cover isn't rubbing on anything it should be alright. According to the haynes manual code 21 is something about the primary ignition signal that the dealer needs to fix. I would just try to reset the computer and go from there. James

Looks Sweet! Your going to have a lot of fun working on the motor now though. That's why I bought mine without the grill guards. James

When I bought my pathfinder it ran like crap. The timing belt was so loose it was slapping on the cover. I ran a compression check on it first thing and had one cylinder with only 30 psi. I figured a valve was leaking but thought it will just have to run like that for now. After changing the timing belt it now has 180 psi per cylinder all almost perfectly even. So even though the belt hadn't jumped a tooth it was still affecting the cam timing and compression. I agree with your mechanic friend, try putting a belt on it first before writing it off as dead. James

Yea we talked about this in another thread. Making one solid washer to the same thickness as the stack of shims and then harden it so it wouldn't compress. But did I do it, no not until it happens to me. I think I have some of the factory washer from when I changed the UCA that I can measure. I need to get busy making some washers. I'm still glad nothing is bent! James

Never mind, I took some pictures to post to show that all the parts are straight and look what I found in the first one I shot. Look at the bolt that holds down the upper control arm. Both of them are loose and have no shims. Time for me to go back to an alignment shop and kick some @$$! This butt head charged me an extra half hour of labor because I had changed all the front end parts myself and it was supposedly going to take him a while to get it back into specs. I let him do it because I had taken off of work and already had my new tires on and didn't want to drive to Lafayette. Looks like I will have to take off work again! James

I was trying to climb a tree stump to get some flexy pictures that y'all like so much, but it don't seem possible in the mud with no locker in the front. I was just sliding around the stump, I guess disconnecting the sway bars would help but I do too much highway for that. This was the best I got. I hit the stump hard the first time I felt it lift the two opposing tires off the ground but wouldn't stay. I didn't notice till yesterday coming home from work that now my steering wheel is clocked around the 1 O'Clock position instead of straight up. It still drives ok. I don't see anything obviously bent in the steering as far as tie rods and better not be that grass roots center link. I don't have an idler arm brace because I was waiting to find a power pitman arm for the manual box I have to do the dual box mod. Could I have bent the idler arm slightly that it wouldn't actually look bent but still throw off my steering? I should have been hunting like I was supposed to instead of playing! James

I think that may be more of a problem with the older engines with TBI instead of MPI. Or maybe just the older casting, when I pulled the heads off my wife's 01 Quest van (VG33) with 118K the ports and valves were clean. I didn't use TECHRON but the STP in the black bottle in my 87. I used this on my week and a half hunting trip which I rolled over 500 miles so it could be just the long runs that helped. It has a little more power than it had before but it still drinks gas. I didn't concentrate it as much as you did though I just dumped it in a full tank. I will let you know what the ports look like when I yank the intake off in a few weeks. I am going to try and convert it over to MPI from a 94 truck. James

I love pick a part too! I couldn't afford an old vehicle like this without it. I got my VG33 for $160 and even the 125 amp alternator was included with the price of the motor. James

You said you had fuel dripping out the exhaust, you might want to check the fuel pressure regulator if it the MPFI. Pull the vacuum hose off of the regulator and spin the motor over. I have seen a regulator diaphragm rupture and dump fuel straight into the intake until it was running out the exhaust. James

I don't know for sure guys but stated on the site I posted above the cylinder wall OD (inside the water passages) is the same diameter, so once the 3.0 block is bored to the 3.3 diameter pistons the thickness of the cylinder wall would be the same as the 3.3 block. So what they are claiming is the 3.0 block could be bored to a 3.4 also. Just what I read, I agree it would be easier to just source a 3.3 block (I did) but for someone not around a pick a part it could be a cheaper option. If the info on that site is true. James

I was told 5 to 6 weeks and it took 10 weeks for my front bumper. You only put down a 1/3 as a deposit and they charge the rest when they ship. I didn't mind the wait because I knew about there delivery time before I ordered, and I'm very happy with my bumper. James

Without digging the wires out of the harness the only way you could make it work like factory would be to find the wires at the fuse box and steering column then tap into them and run new wires to the motors. The power could come from any ignition source but the ground would have to come from the wiper switch to work like OEM. I would just try digging them out, they couldn't have broken too far down the harness. You could follow the harness back a couple of feet then open the loom and find the two wire colors. When you find them test them with a meter before you cut into them. The red wire should have power with the key on and loose power when you pull fuse 19. Hook you positive lead from your meter to the battery positive and the negative lead to the blue/white wire. Have someone pull the wiper switch back to run the washers and if it's the right wire the meter will show power. Now cut these two wires and splice into them with new wires (speaker wire will work fine) and run them to the washer motors. James

I was thinking of using a timer circuit for a cornering lamp not a signal.

Nunya is going to want to ban me for this but, When I go hunting I fold down the back seats and fill it up with my gear. I cant help but think how much easier it would be to reach the stuff behind the front seats if I had a 4 door! I wouldn't have to convert the fuel injection either. I didn't say I wanted one yet, just would be a little more convenient. I still have the original first year pathfinder though! Sorry Nunya, I'm just lazy and don't want to crawl in to get my gear if I don't have too. James

Thats good to know, what kind of vehicle did yours come out of? I was told that the motor mount bosses were different on the front wheel drive blocks. This site; http://grannys.tripod.com/2N6VG30.html and several others say "All of the VG blocks share all of the same engine/transmission and accessory mounting bosses/locations, making mixing and matching parts from FWD to RWD configuration very easy." They also claim you can bore out a VG30 to a VG33 and have the same wall thickness. So you could bore a 3.0 block and use 3.3 pistons. So it should fit right in. Yes I'm only going to use the block, heads and injectors from the villager motor. James

If fuse 19 isn't blown you do have a live wire some were in the harness. The worst it could do is blow the fuse if it shorts though. The other wire for the P/S switch could cause you some idle problems if it shorts. James

Yea I see your point with the blinker on the front bumper no one could see it from the side. I just never thought about it before, It has to look better than all those fake air vents people put on the fender of their jacked up cars with 30" wheels! So now y'all got me interested lets see some pics. I have been thinking about adding some cornering lamps to the fenders. I'm sure I could come up with a timer circuit to light them when the signal is on. Should help when wheeling in the dark and it looks cool. James

You need to put the little red tube on the can nozzle and stick it into the window track and really soak it good. James

I don't know for sure yet if it will fit but I got a 3.3 out of a mercury villager van. I have found info both ways on the web that the quest villager motors won't fit and that all the VG blocks mounting bosses are the same. If it don't fit, It only cost me $160 anyway. I will post a thread about it as soon as I get the motor out of my parts truck to compare. James

Are you guys referring to the little amber light on the front fender between the tire and door that the over seas guys have? Why would you want to add them? James

The P/S switch is just to up the idle a little when you are turning. I wouldn't worry about reconnecting it unless you engine stumbles when turning the wheel but you do want to find the wires that go to it and isolate them. The front washer pump should have a red wire and a blue/white wire for them. The red comes from fuse 19 and the blue and white goes back to the switch. The motor should have power all the time, and the switch grounds it to run. Look on page EL-157 in the 2001 pathfinder FSM. In the wiring diagrams "L" stands for blue. James

Thanks for the link! I just ordered one. James

So is that all this extra housing was for a little plastic pocket? When I found mine it was already taken off the dash and the radio was missing, I figured Nissan put an EQ or CD player under there. James

I like my factory shocks. I wish I had longer ones for the rear. They are plenty firm on the road in the sport position, and in the touring position soft enough on the trails to not beat the hell out of everything inside. James

dududuckling got you beat! You need to wash that motor man! James