muddfildvaynes

do you have manual or auto hubs, and are they off or on; all the time? put your pathy in the air and check out your front end. Wiggle the tire up and down and left and right and look for any movement.... spin the wheels and listen.

sounds like sway bar end links....

Welcome, I live in Conroe right outside of Houston; what kind of modifications do you have planned?

worked for me on windows

So here are pics i took today before i put the new light on, and apparently it looks like i put a big ding on my hatch.

Jack you pathy up and put jack stands on the unibody before the subframe to hold it up so the subframe hangs and isn't supported; like if you were to put it on a 2 post lift. shake your tires up and down and left and right, if it wobbles up and down its your wheel bearing. If it wobbles left and right its your steering/tie rod. Also look at the subframe drop blocks and espacially the LCA REAR bushing. When I fixed my death wobble it was a combination of my LCA rear bushing was shot and my sfd needed to be welded because the bolts kept loosening. Try this on both sides and pay attention to any movement because it is not supposed to move at all.

My truck can climb trees lol but it doesnt mean it likes it which is why it broke.... so make it stronger and climb the tree again

It is a MM manual hub, its better a hub blew than my cv; and I just did everything with a pair of needle nose pliars and a allen wrench bit and ratchet. alot of the time was taken up with taking lovely pictures lol and @!*% talking with my cousin.... These MM manual hubs just cant take the beating I want them to take so it is time to upgrade to Warn. And yes the tree won this one for now lol.

yup, I always keep spares after not having them a couple time when I broke; its always good to be prepared.

So I went wheeling today and was playing around in the woods near my cousins house, started to climb the tree in a dry creek bed and right after my cousin got this flexy shot I went a little higher and blew a hub out. Luckily I have done these so many times now it only took me 30 minutes to get my spare out and put it on and we were back on the trail. I also got to a point where I could go no further (trees) and had to turn around I busted one of my 9" offroad lights on a tree. Luckily I have another so I will take pics before and after I put it on tomorrow; it is nice to see the pathy all painted again lol. all fixed what my bumper did to the tree

this is what a junkyard build will get you if you can even find a R50..

members rides section? plenty of pics in there

I got my LCA poly bushings from 4x4parts, give me a call i shot you a message, through facebook.

Its easy, just press your old bushings out and get the split poly bushings from 4x4parts.com and do them one link at a time.

I built a front bumper but this brush guard kept me from tearing my front end up before I had my steel bumper. It has definitly save me from ruining my pathy and has a bunch of life left in it. It will come with the mounting brackets and the bolts that came with it minus 2 but I would recommend getting new grade 8 bolts as I had to cut 2 of them to get it off. I paid $400 for it when I purchased but I do not think I will get anywhere near that as it is used and has taken some abuse but is still good. I was thinking maybe $130 plus you pay shipping which I am also guessing to be around $40-50? I just moved to TX so it should be easier than shipping it from NH. I am keeping my offroad lights.

also banned for doing it

i would get a used one on Craigslist or car-part.com like mentioned above; also go on craigslist and find a mechanic who sounds like they know what they are talking about and see if you can strike a deal. or maybe a friend with facilities and tools?

That was me talking to Stang's Fab and this is what we discussed: Terry, We have been working with Rod to get a complete R50 SAS swap kit together. We would really like to see someone else try it and do the install so we can see where, if any improvements are needed. We look forward to working with you on this project. There are some things that you may be able to get locally so I have priced it out in a way that you can just get certain parts of the kit. Here is what we have. We have designed a new transmission cross member for the 3 link to mount too, with a removable center section. A new engine bracket to relocate the power steering pump and loose the A/C. A pair of mounts for coilovers (14” travel work great, 250lbs over 350lbs springs are soft.). Axle end link mounts for the three link, a track bar with mounts, a steering drag link and cross bar and a uniframe/steering box stiffener/mount. We will also supply the Drive shaft and adapter. This set-up with a Waggy D44 axle will put your R50 at the same level as the rear if you have the same rear springs as Rod. The Waggy D44 also has the right bolt pattern and width if you did not already know. The cost of this kit right now is. $3395.40 Plus options... $4135.40. The only thing you supply if you get it ALL is the steering box (Dodge Durango) and axle. 3 Link (all links are adjustable and use Currie Johnny Joints) $999.95 Transmission Cross Member $305 Steering box mount/stiffener $199.95 Power steering pump bracket(Comes with a new V belt). $210.50 Track bar with mounts $380 Cross over steering $450.00 Drive shaft and adapter(All new double cardan shaft with 1310 UJ) $850 Optional stuff: Electric Fan and controller $240 P/S Hoses and adapters $250 Exhaust Pipe for passanger side. $250 Thanx for the interest!! Eric Schertzing Owner/Operator Staang's FAB 905-466-5578 From: terry [mailto:terryhenryjr@aol.com] Sent: August-19-11 2:53 PM To: eric@staangsfab.com Subject: R50 SAS kit I am a friend of Rod's and have a 1999.5 R50 that had the same lift he had in it before the SAS. I live in TX and would be interested in purchasing a manufactured kit in pieces execpt for the axle; what have you been coming up with?

I personally love the Rancho RS5000's, it is the shock I went with when I had the 2" lift and now I have 6" lift and still run the RS5000's just alot longer. I originally got them from AC but my new ones I had to customize to fit my lift. I have never had a problem with these shocks and recently sold my old ranchos to a buddy of mine and he loves them.

yea they have awesome customer service.

So my brand new smittybilt winch stopped working after the last time I used it to drag the pathy off some rocks while it was pouring in NH. Got on the phone with smittybilt last week and they sent me a new remote with no prevail, so then they sent me a new plug and voila it came back to life. Going to getting my state inspection license this week and hopefully starting work with my dad; he is the Texas regional manager for Meineke and has his own shop; things are starting to look up.

Looks good but I believe all thornbirds are junk.... just my opinion though; but your heading in the right direction going with swampers. I ran 33x13.50x15 Swampers LTB's for a month and those were too wide for me, went to 33x12.50x15 swampers LTB's and still a little rubbing and tore my flares off, so now I have my 34x10.50x15 swampers LTB's and love them. I believe they are the perfect tire for the SFD....

My transfer case in my R50 lost reverse in 4wd so I came across this guy in another 4x4 club here in houston who has a TX-10 that he bought as a extra to his Xterra so he could do a double transfer case but never got around to doing it. So he is willing to sell the transfer case to me and he said he thinks it should work but I don't know, what is the transfer case in our R50's; is it a TX-10?

I have the opportunity to purchase a new/used transfer case (TX-10) off a buddy from a local 4x4 club here in houston; the thing is he purchased this transfercase as a extra to custom make a double transfer case on his custom xterra. But I dont know if this transfercase will work with my pathfinder, anyone have the knowledge?

A member on here 01Silverpathy has run without the front sway bar links and he said it was fun and gave a little more flex if I remember. Most of our flex comes from the rear 4link, take that sway bar completely out and you will have some good flex there; the IFS in the front with the lift coils will not flex that much. I run a front sway bar with moog links and no rear sway bar on my pathy and drive it on the road regularly.