skulptr

With a 3" backspace I ran 33x12.5 with no spacers and stock suspension. Zero rubbing.

First thing I would do is drain the t case and see if theres anything in the oil.

I cut the old muffler out under the drivers side where it's still dual pipes, had to get adaptors cause the muffler I got is 2.5" in and out. To do dual out the pipes run over the axle like normal, but you'll have to take your spare out so you have room for the pipes to come out the back, unless you want them out the side behind the tires. And my pathy was a 3 3, just imagine how much more it could be with the 3.5 look on google and youtube for pathfinder exhaust, quite a few custom jobs upthere , but none with the super 40

i used a flowmaster super 40 8525454 i tried finding videos of it, but it has been a long time since i had my pathy. here's what i have... from the drivers side window

no ive just had much better luck since i put it in....

most thieves dont look. the one i have disables the ecu starter signals

Ever used an ignition kill chip? All it does is interrupt the starter signal so the starter won't turn withou it in. my honda has it and is probably the only reason I still have it today

And I miss my power steering and a/c. I found a/c lines at the jy and I'm gonna go get it Thursday, but can't find a compressor

A weber carb is supposed to make a huge difference. I would love to change the gearing, but I have to put a toyota axle in the rear to do anything with it. Stupid c200 diff

so i got tired of all the r50's problems, so i sold it and picked up an 86 720 for 500 bucks. i'm not gonna complain. i needed the bed, and something easier to work on. if theres a better category for this please move it. not sure if there ever will be a 720/hb cat about the truck. 197k miles z24 power house (soon to get a weber carb) 5spd interior not bad but needs help looks like a 3" body lift already leaks oil at the pan gasket needs all ball joints and cv boots replaced has 2.25" straight pipe exhaust (need a glass pack badly) what ive done 31" a/ts on black rallys with chrome lip replaced the tape deck with a walmart special cd deck tinted the windows replaced drivers window regulator added dash clock and oil pressure/volt pod (all oem) currently looking for the oem tach sanded and bed liner sprayed the bully bar and deleted the light loops what i want done 3" suspension lift, i hope someone can help me figure this out. the ifs and leaf setup is new to me 33" tires find a lsd or locker for the rear (running full open damnit!) paint it, rhino line it (finally have all my own equipment to do it) needs off road lights badly replace the rear bumper treat the frame rust (all rust is the last 2 feet post axle) getting a cb setup tonight pics day i got her bought 1 set of 31s with rims, came with a 31 spare and a free set of 32s on rims (all for 100 bucks) things ive towed already and screwing around (of course) and added a dog (the black one)

when you get it back, i have a large label for your windshield! this is on my honda, and soon to be the 720. i'm in spokane, quite a ways away, but i'll be watchin anyway. you will see her again, no doubt. look at mr. jim!

exactly. if i hadnt had my brush guard when i got in my little accident, the damage amount would have been less than half of what it was and the suspension doesnt really change with the brush guard. i have my bully bar on over a steel bumper, on stock suspension, with no issues what so ever

I have a westin. The verticals are pure brute, but the light loops gave out completely when I hit a stum at 10mph. Smashed up the bumper, coolant tank, light, fender. If it had been a deer at full speed or a vehicle I'm sure the verticals would have kept their shape, but that would be it.

You hit a deer with a brush guard and took 0 damage? You friend do not have a brush guard. You have something that does more than look good lol

I will keep an eye out. Mine isn't from a pathy, or even an import. Mine is from a durango. The brackets were about 1 inch wider on either side, but I just used steel plates bent them to fit and welded them. And the bully bar towers come right to the inside of the head lights instead of leaving them completely exposed. I also cut my light hoops off since they did more damage than anything once I hit the tree. I will eventually reattach them, but they will attach at the bumper for strength.

I bought mine for 75 and that bottom bar wasn't bent, I wouldn't give him a dime over 75 if it had no rust with that bent bar. Finding one without that bottom bar bent if they left the concrete is going to be hard. And yes all brush guards with that mount will fit all 96-04. If they are tow hook mount. And they bolt on in place of the tow hooks. Some go under iirc, and some on top. I deleted my hooks completely when I put my guard on and added an additional steel plate with loops in them for added strength.

The converter has nothing coming from the trailer side of it. The internals of the converter are melted. I can stick my finger in the hole melted in the side of it. I'm going to the jy today to grab as many as I can find. On another note, I wired in the 7 pin plug and repaired the rest of my wiring that's been getting chewed up off road. Looks new, except for the converter. I will post up pics and labels of the wires that come from the truck to the converter, so the r50 will finally have a little more referance material.

I only need one stupid tube if you have it lol the 45* elbow for the intake right at the plenum. Every used one I've got has split apart on me

Sounds like the starter relay or ignition switch?

Well I've got the 7 pole plug now with the spring door and all now, but my taillight converter melted and I have no power coming out of it. Any one know where I can get one that is powered instead of solid state like it came with? I only have web on my phone so its hard to shop around

Could be, you beat the snot out of that TC lol

Sounds like binding in the transfer case? Did you flush that too?

That's another reason we will eventually be getting a large trailer and wheni flat to the honda it will have power and brake assist. Plus having that plug covered will help since I've corroded 5 plugs since I owned it

so my 4 flat signal converter is toast, literally. it got so hot it melted out the side of it, and now all i have is running/tail lights. so, since my honda has a 6 pole for its flat tow package, i'm going to just delete the converter and go either 6 or 7 pole. can anyone tell me what it involves? i know the converter is supposed to have a power wire run to it so the trailer lights arent running on stock wiring, but i only have 6 wires going into it. 2 from each side, then the 2 going out to the 4 flat plug. the running lights wire is already been bypassed. i know someone has done this on an r50 already, but he hasnt logged in since august 09. if someone has just the wire color for the signals, i should be able to get the rest. i'm running a lawn business now, and having to signals on the trailer is not going to fly.

sounds like your strut mount to me. also recheck your sway bar end links. the nuts on mine came loose after 3 days, and they were torqued to specs.