daver123

The AA O/D is not only important to obtain a highway gear with the idea of perhaps saving some fuel, but a critical extension to the drive train to push the transmission back an extra 7.5" so that the shifter comes out of the floor and not the dash. On a separate note there has been progress and the beast lives. She took her first breath last weekend. Been to busy to post. I will have some more photos and maybe a video if I can soon. Very satisfying feeling hearing the motor run after doing so much electrical and only having two main bugs in the system, both of which are annoying but not critical to engine operation. The oil pressure warning light and the tach didnt do what they are supposed to. oil light is fix but the tach needs attention. I had a problem with the oil pressure sending unit leaking oil through the wiring plug and a coolant leak but other than a timing adjustment she fired up first shot. I have come to the conclusion as well that the front suspension and steering need to be reworked a little. The three link setup is fine, but the panhard is too short and high and is causing steering geometry issues. The steering itself needs some attention, also geometry issues. I need to build a drop pitman arm to correct this. Other than that, just need to get drive shafts built $$$ :$ so that might be a little bit of a wait and then the drive train is mostly done. Still lots of other details before its road ready. Thank you dedicated followers, I will try to keep you up to date as I am back in build mode.

I hope by some time in February to start working on it again, damn money and personal life getting in the way. All I want to do is 4x4 is that so much to ask?

Progress as of late has been slowed by financial issues and attendance to school. Most of the recent work is engine electrical so not much to show. I wont likely start working on it again until the spring.

The fronts are a progressive 215/300 and are 22.5" free length from James Duff and the rears are 190 or 200 and are 23.5" free length from Bronco Graveyard. I may have to get firmer springs in the rear to even out the flex but I will see how she handles on the trail. I need to change the rear end a bit before im done anyhow, it sits a couple inches too low compared to the front.

This is the reason I did my swap, nissan wanted way too much for all the little bits of rubber that had worn out and the whole front end was already tired, so instead of investing in the IFS any further I cut that SOB right out lol, then I got a little carried away and redid the entire truck. oops ;p its gunna be sweet though

I wish I had a hoist for my SAS, that would have made many things much easier. Like all the welding under the truck and fitting the new power train. Looks awesome though, looks like you have the same thing going on with the steering. I had bought everything to go full high steer but ended up only using the one high steer arm on the passenger side to get my angles right with the cross over link and then re-reemed the knuckles to put the drag link over the built in tangs on the knuckles. The three link system got in the way of the steering stuff. Too bad full hydro aint street legal lol.

Ok some fresh pics of progress on this beast. For the first time in 2 years the front end has an axle under it and the truck as a whole has supported its own weight. Front axle steering and suspension have been sorted out and installation is about 95% done. Mostly have been testing and measuring and remeasuring the current arrangement to ensure that it all behaves the way I want it to. I'll have some more stuff hopefully in a few days.

Not married but do have a one year old daughter. The only set of gears in the lower range that i could find matched was the 5.13s, dana from Complete Offroad and the h233b from these guys https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/h233b-ring-pinion-5142-p-3447.html sorry about the long periods between postings

I frankensteined a dana 44 together. I got a bare housing and a bunch of spare pathy parts from my dentist, who by chance has the exact same truck and SASed, for free cuz the mrs' wanted them out from under the deck. I then picked up one of these internal disco's d44 for cheep and gutted it for parts. In the end the housing is a mystery where it came from, but the carrier, hubs, outter stubs and rotors are from the waggy, the flat top knuckles and spindles are a ford f250, inner shafts are chromoly, aftermarket 5.13 gears and HD diff cover, warn hubs, custom brake brackets to hook up the gm calipers, and of course all new bearings, seals, ball joints and u joints.

There is one possible concern that hasn't been mentioned surounding the price tag and it happened to me. Once you start the SAS, you might start finding other things you want changed. Before you know it you have rebuilt the whole truck front to back, motor, tranny, rear suspension, and so on. Heck, I didnt even leave the cigarette lighter plug alone. Almost 2 years later, 3 daily drivers and unknown price tagm, still not done.

Many moons ago I didnt realize that that was a fusible link and I had melted it with too much amp draw from electric fans and stereo equipment and I rebuilt the link myself acouple of times before solving the problem and doing the quest alty upgrade and running a whole new cable straight from the alty to battery. And I agree that you might have a damaged battery

If I'm not mistaken the oil pressure sending unit uses just a generic plug. All you should need is a standard crimp on female blade connector available at any automotive store.

I'm putting in another vote for the don't worry about it clan. If you dropped it in your engine this would be a different story, but there is nothing in your diff that will be harmed by this at all.

I had issues with my wiring harness when i swapped in a quest alty. The higher amperage melted the fusible link that comes off the battery positive post. I just ran a new 4 gauge wire from the alty to the batt. That cleared up that problem. as far as the running rough, the fact that your voltage went up to 19v is concerning, dont want to scare you but it may have burned out a sensor somewhere. Other than that as far as both problems go check that you have good grounds.

The arrangement of the drive train is as follows, first comes the Advanced Adapters overdrive unit that is then mated to the SM465 transmission and last is the NP241 t-case. The Overdrive is basically a gear splitter that allows for a 27% overdrive of whatever gear the transmission is in, effectively reducing the engine rpm by 27% to maintain the same speed thus saving gas and providing an overall higher top speed as well. The overdrive unit has only two gears 1:1 and 1:1.27 with no neutral and is fully synchronized to shift like any normal modern gearbox. The arrangement of the shift levers does not logically follow the arrangement of the drive train. There is a bunch of linkage to make the positioning of the levers in the cab more ergonomically friendly. So what I setup is a direct connection, no linkage to the transmission, that's the lever nearest to the dash. The overdrive shifter is on the passenger side behind the transmission shifter even though the unit itself is ahead of the transmission. This allows for clean unobstructed shifting of the transmission. The overdrive unit need not be shifted at every gear change, it can stay engaged in either position through all ranges. The t-case shifter is then located on the drivers side and behind the transmission shifter and beside the Overdrive shifter. As this lever is the least used its location was not as important. What all this gives me is effectively an 8 speed manual transmission, with 16 possible gear combinations if you include the t-case low gear. Gear ratio list: Ranger Overdrive High - 1:1.27 Low - 1:1 SM465 1st - 6.55:1 2nd - 3.58:1 3rd - 1.57:1 4th - 1:1 NP241 High - 1:1 Low - 2.72:1 Differentials 5.13:1 Overall Ratios Final Crawl Ratio - 91.4:1 (<<<---that's awesome by the way ) Top Gear - 4.04:1 Convenient calculator for this stuff Crawl calculator Hopefully that clears some stuff up. Can you tell I'm not working today and bored outta my mind

Some other developments. My infamous front bumper is being retired, and being replace by a new killer. still a work in progress, no longer just a CAD drawing, but I promise you will all want one. Also got my clutch and flywheel in And this aftermarket slave cylinder that solves the issue of lack of space for the clutch for which is opposite of the pathfinder tranny. This little guy by Howe needs no forks. So as mentioned above like 2 posts, there wont be much more done until next year. Do feel free to continue asking questions, I am figuring out a lot of problems on a regular basis, so if you see something that gets you thinking.... Just avoid getting in too deep. I did lol

Ok some new stuff Got my shifter arrangement settled with proper sealing of the tunnel from the interior. I'm thrifty and i like to maintain a hint of stock look even though it is very far from, you know keep the spirit of the pathfinder. So i managed to reuse the stock shifter boot and the original shift levers. I managed to even reuse the push down and pull back mechanism to shift into 4 low on the t-case. The stock manual shifter is now for the overdrive unit and the overdrive came with a shifter and boot so i used those on the new tranny. I am all about the little details, so i turned the stock cigaret lighter plug into a permanent usb outlet to charge well just about everything these days. Finally got around to figuring out one loose end in the rear end, that being the links connecting the axle to the sway bar. I have reused the stock sway bar that has a nice hump in it to clear drive line interference. Because i want to disconnect it when off roading I mounted the bar on the frame instead of on the axle so that when i disconnect the links i just swing it up out of the way under the truck, no hanging bits to get snagged. One other difference is in how i have it setup to connect to the axle. Due to clearances and the relocation of the axle the sway bar doesn't reach the axle so i have it actually connected to the lower links.

lucky for you that's what I'm working on now, but unfortunately you will have to wait to see any progress. I injured my shoulder at work and probably wont be getting much done for the next couple weeks, then its December and I will be too busy. I do have a few new pics though. What are you using for an axle?

I will definitely get some vids once shes running. Not much will get done this weekend though, but in the next coming weeks I plan to take a little time off work to get some serious building done. Trust me I have been dying to go wheeling, being stuck in a garage every weekend has become a little tedious.

Progress has been slower than usual, but I'm back at it. The latest is the state of the transmission. I have the beast ready for install including some intricate linkage to make this all possible. What you see in order from left to right is the bell housing, then the ranger overdrive unit (very important), transmission, transfer case and slip yoke eliminator. The overdrive unit is very important because it moves the whole system back 7.5" allowing the transmission shifter to clear the dash in the cab. Also provides 27% overdrive for better fuel economy and provides a highway gear.

Yes, all the lines are going to be custom. I have actually just finished that system still have to properly pressure test it though.

Curious, what coils did you use up front there?

The vortec would be nice but the price of the TBI I got was right and I appreciate its simplicity. For a vehicle I take very far away from help or even a cell signal, simplicity is best.

I didn't build the engine, I bought it in the current configuration, so i don't know all the exact details. The block is out of a 93 S10, its the multi-port version of the 4.3 block. It uses an edelbrock TBI intake manifold. It has an after market cam as well.

Too pretty lol, naw looks good man, I wouldn't want to wheel it though.