Adam

i wouldn't say a pathy handles better than all toyota pu's lol, my 84 toyota was a great vehicle, and they were about equally as quick, the 22RE is a good power plant... mine even towed a 2800lb uhaul from washington to texas and got better gas mileage towing that than my pathy gets towing nothing... wish i still had that toyota and the v6 in the pathy definately isn't "a lot" more power than even a stock 22RE... power to weight ratio is on a toyota pickup's side.

now that depends on the motor, a ford V8 would have the dizzy up front... though, who wants a ford?

well, as of now its just talk... but i have a turbo sitting in my garage, and one day i want to turbo my bmw... but i also have my horribly underpowered pathfinder sitting in my driveway doing nothing... i want to pick up a welder, and try my hand at fabricating. i have a general idea of how turbo's work, and what all is needed to run to the turbo(ie coolant and oil, vacuum lines), and my turbo has an integrated wastegate, so its not too complex... i know it'll need a blow off valve, and i'll likely have to make my own header, unless i want to remotely mount the turbo, but i don't think i will. i was thinking of using an intercooler off of an isuzu npr, pretty popular and cheap... i've got experience with mig and tig welding, though its been about 7 years since i've done either... but if i remember correctly, the wire fed mig welder was what i was most comfortable with... is a mig welder a viable option for this project? some questions i have, i found a post by 88 saying the stock bottom end was good to about 15psi, i'm planning on under 10, turbo i have is only good to ~350hp and thats running it to its limits... but is the stock maf setup good for a turbo, or should i run a map setup? i'd likely do this with a megasquirt ecu, as i don't think the stock ecu is gonna work for this... are there any base maps around for the vg30de for a megasquirt? this project would also be my first experience with the megasquirt... what size are stock injectors? can the stock auto handle the power associated with a turbo? or would it be a better idea to switch to the 5 speed? would the stock cam work for turbo applications? or would something aftermarket be in order? also, what about ignition timing? does the stock distributor advance at all? or should i go another route for ignition? where can i tap in to to feed the turbo with oil? where can i get a set of flanges to make custom headers? or would i have to get them machined? lots of questions, thanks in advance

paid 3.24 today.... for 93 octane

in my bmw i get optimal fuel economy at 70-75, 80 if its really flat(luckily dallas is fairly flat)... yet the speed limit is only 60... the pathfinder, i see the same thing you do, 55-60 gets the best, but only like 20mpg as opposed to 18 at 70... and its 2.99 a gallon for regular here... too bad i gotta put premium in my beamer lol

thats weird, it said it sent, but its not in my sent messages box... i'll pm you again...

check your pm...

i got one on my 90, should be compatible, lemme go see what it is, i think its class 2, but i'll check, and then i'll pm you

all these pics make me feel not so bad about the wreck i got in in my pathy, mine faired really well against a chrysler sebring in a sideswipe... only got damage to my front bumper, fender, and grill

i did, in the pictures and video forum i'll post pics under the hood tomorrow

i got it today, and you're nuts the thing does great, its very quick, and it'll definately get the tires squeely in a turn if i want it to...

0-60 in 6.1s and i'm gonna wish i had more power? sorry bud, i don't buy auto's, and i'm very familiar with their 3.0 I6, old roommate of mine had a 98 M Roadster i drove on occasion, very potent motor... the 330ci may weigh more, but its still plenty fast, from my research it does the 1/4 at 14.9@95, though i've also seen 14.5@95, but i'll trust the slower number for now. i drove this one yesterday, its definately not lacking.

its ok, i found a 01 330ci today for 14,500 that i test drove that is immaculate and wonderful, gonna go for that.

yeah carfax just says its got a rebuilt title now... no real info yet, and i called them on it, but i have to call back at 6 to speak to someone... the carfax said the previous owner totalled it, the current owner bought it after it had been rebuilt... edit: though if insurance is gonna be higher, i probably won't bother, i'm trying to find a manual 328ci for around 15k, or i'll get an 04 rx8...

i'm thinking of going and looking at this car, even though the carfax report says its a salvage/rebuilt... only 10k for a 2000 BMW 328ci seems at least worth checking out... i don't know how bad the damage was before, it was rebuilt before the current owner purchased it... has 80000 miles on it, looks like an alright car... heres the link. hard to tell anything from the pics i know, but i just wanted others input on this...

i put an 18" glasspack in mine, its great.

i've checked both, the trailer wiring is all good, and the only thing i haven't done is unwrap all the wiring in the damaged area... maybe that should come next, i'll unwrap it and rewrap it tomorrow... figure i'll start unwrapping at the wire that got broken for the passenger side running light...

so just 2 days ago, i noticed when i pushed my brake pedal my dash lights all lit up, when the lights weren't on anyways... when the lights were on it wouldn't happen... so today i investigate, and my running lights also turn on when i brake... so i turned my lights on and checked my brake lights, and they are constantly on when my headlights/running lights are on, they kind of dim for a millisecond when i initially push the pedal, but they don't dim when i have the brake off... so i'm guessing a wire is crossed somewhere? any immediate places you guys can think of to check? i also hear the relay working when i push the pedal, but i can't actually figure out which/where the relay is... i had an accident a couple of weeks ago, crunched my front right fender, knocked off the running light on the drivers side, ripped the light socket right off the wire, i'm gonna check that wire to see if its ripped anywhere, but i figured i'd post on here and see if anyone had any suggestions... i already checked in the back in the taillight access panel, everything is in order back there, but i'm not sure where the wires for the brakes go after the brake pedal... any help is much appreciated, you guys have come through every other time. this place rules.

it doesn't ping, power is up, i'm not too worried about it.

with my 90, i removed the elbow before the air box that goes to the fender, got a k&n filter, got my maf bored about 225 over, and got a new muffler(but kept stock piping, as i can't afford a full exhaust yet), power is definately up, its not as sluggish anymore... getting on the highway isn't too much of an arduous task anymore...

this is how i figure whether a repair is worth me doing... i figure how much i make an hour, versus shop rate, and if i spend more time but less money at my own rate than taking it to a shop, i do it myself... if its something i know would take way longer than a shop and spend more of my time than its worth to have a shop do, then i don't do it, but its very rare that i don't do the work myself...

maybe its just clips? i dunno, can't say i've ever seen the inside of a 95...

i got it

they probably just indexed them incorrectly, i would get a chiltons manual or haynes manual and reindex them, its pretty easy to do with the manual...

i also owned a 84 GSL, it was tornado silver, but it was my least favorite car i've owned, i put a ported 6 port motor in it, with a holley 4bbl carb, it would move, but i didn't like how it handled, i like the TII's handling much much better... i also just thought of something... i don't have a clue what the interior in a 95 is like, the dash could be totally different from mine, so i don't know how much my pics will help... http://www.elysian-online.com/DashScrews1.jpg http://www.elysian-online.com/DashScrews2.jpg