Adam

Also, gas is new gas, not the 2 year old stuff. All fluids were replaced as well.

I just got done splicing in a harness from a boneyard Pathy, to replace some burned out wires under the hood(2 of them, one going to the resistor/condensor I posted a thread on previously, and the other going to what I assume is the ground on the distributor). Now that I'm done with that, nothing has changed, it runs as it did before, it won't go over 4krpm, it's somewhat hard to start, it's very loapy, and hates to rev. It ran before it was parked back in 2007, and it's been driven a couple of times since then, but now it just doesn't want to cooperate. I've verified firing order, I've checked spark on every plug, it's putting out plenty of spark. Back in 2008 or so, I had replaced the spark plug wires, so they're fairly unused. I've made sure the distributor is correctly at TDC, and I've replaced the fuel filter. I can hear the fuel pump doing it's thing when the key is in the on position. The ECU was replaced back in 2007 as well, a wire near the exhaust manifold had touched it, and killed some things, the shop doing the work felt it needed a new ECU at the time... Here's a vid I took of starting it up. It won't hold idle either. It was easier to start during the vid because I had been running it a moment before I went to get the camera. The audio and video aren't sync'd that well, excellent...

That would be outstanding. Shoot me a pm let me know how much you want

Excellent, thanks! Hopefully I don't have too hard of a time finding it, figure ill have to also rewire that chunk of harness

Anyone know what the part is? Looks like a relay or a sensor or something... I managed to seperate it from the harness, but its got no part number on the non-melted area...

From looking at it, it looks like it just clips in, would this be fairly easy to replace? I'm not at home or id look into it further.

Got my pathy running again after a couple of years of sitting. All new fluids, new gas. Its running rough, won't rev over 4.5k right now, and can't get over 25mph... I nheard a popping sond under the hood, and found this glowing red and smoking, its melted pretty good... Its on the passenger side fuel rail... the engine also stumbles when I give it gas, and its hard to start. It kind of holds idle, but not really solid, all in all it runs like a bunch of cylinders are missing... Thanks in advance.

i doubt a k&n is going to be a big upgrade over the one you have, i wouldn't waste my money. but thats just me. i think that the difference would show up on a dyno. i've driven plenty of vehicles, been to the drag strip, i can definately feel the difference between mods. if i had the motivation i could even go out and swap the old maf back in and time my 0-60, but i'd rather not. this is the way i see it. we all know that car manufacturers make the cars run pretty rich from the factory. intake and exhaust helps lean things out some, and modifying the maf will make it lean things out even more. the primitive ecu on the pathfinder isn't going to compensate for the larger opening, its just a 2 resistor sensor, it will likely still think its the same amount of air coming in, so i've effectively leaned it out more. as i'm sure you know, the closer to stoich your running, the more efficiently your motor is going to run.

dyno for a MAF? all i've got is intake, and a glasspack muffler. have you looked at the opening for the MAF? its tiny. .250 over is going to be quite a difference in flow. and this forum is where i got the idea for it, plenty of talk about how the MAF is the most restrictive part of the intake. i'll put it this way, with the k&n, the glasspack, and the bored out maf, i kept up with a new xterra to 60.

why? it had a pretty measurable effect. engine breathes a lot better, power went up. would have messed with it yesterday, but my girlfriends sister is in town, so we have to show her a good time.

there wasn't much of a performance change from a K&N in my pathfinder, i didn't see a performance change until i removed the tubing that goes into the fender. and there was more of a change from boring out the MAF than installing the K&N/removing the tube.

thats absurd, sorry. and i wouldn't need to look for another maf, i have an oem one in the garage. but that is, well, absurd.

i understand why the pathy has the switch, but i wish it was either Disabled or Power, not Auto or Power. After getting my MAF bored .250 over, it is tons more sensitive, and is on pretty much any time i accelerate, whether i am accelerating hard or not. i just want to disable it, what can i do? my bimmer is in the shop, so i'm having to drive ol' faithful till next friday...

i personally wouldn't even mess around with something with frame rot, i'd look around for something better. there is no shortage of pathfinders.

i had a short recently, with similar symptoms to yours, and i replaced my taillights, and it fixed it. food for thought.

what about hardbodies? i think they have the same t-bar setup...

of course they come out, you just need to pull the torsion bar out of them...

go to a junkyard man... hell i even got mine from a 2wd pathy, they are the same between 2wd and 4wd. i got mine for free that way.

how far do you drive to and from work each day? i do 60+ miles 5 days a week, did that for a while in my pathfinder, but i finally gave in to the cost of gas being so high, and bought a car that gets double the mpg, and has more power from the same size engine. definately don't regret it, even with a car payment, i'd rather my money be going towards something thats worth it.

you're guess is as good as mine...

multipronged plugs are good for one reason and one reason only. they will last, quite a while. when one prong fouls up, the spark finds the path of least resistance, in other words it picks another prong.

buy a daily driver

looks like its going down a little, 3.17 today for premium

thanks for the info, never seen that diyautotune before, so that will definately help. and i'll check out the hybrid z forum you mentioned. my auto trans has maybe 15k on it, so its fairly fresh, and i figure itd be strong enough, but if, after i do this, i get tired of only having 2 pedals, i'll swap then lol... appreciate the input.

bimmer isn't paid off, i'm not gonna be turboing it till it is. and it gets 30mpg, i'm not going to go back to 15mpg with the pathfinder, screw that. and i definately know i've got a long ways to go, but its something i've wanted to do for a long time, and i think i can pull it off... its a 90. megasquirt is a very good route to go for an ecu, its build it yourself, its cheap, and its powerful. the pathfinder doesn't get driven, and it may not be a sports car, but it sure is a slug. not sure the real specs on the turbo, used to have the compressor map, but i've had it in the garage so long, i don't have that anymore... it flows like a T04S, nothing huge, but nothing tiny like the stock t3's you see on so many cars... i don't think a 300zx's turbo manifolds would be the right route to go for this project either.