Adam

i would imagine the lights run in parallel off the switch, though i could be wrong, if you have more resistance in one light than the other, all the power could be wanting to go to one light and not the other, electricity tends to pick the path of least resistance... but i'm not too familiar with how they are wired up, so i could be blowing smoke...

could always try running a new ground wire...

mine works great, and i like the way it looks, i've seen other WD21's on the road without the carrier, and they just look so wrong, and plain.

well if you notice, the oil is hitting the exhaust pipe, even though the drip isn't even over the exhaust pipe, its a few inches in front of it, the only reason i can think the exhaust pipe is coated is because it leaks while moving, and possibly leaks more when in higher rev's... its definately not burning oil internally, theres never blue smoke, or any smoke, out my exhaust pipe...

rear main seal makes most sense to me, because it seems like it responds to oil pressure/rpm's more, i'll get that burning oil smell a few seconds after letting off on the gas... i guess easy solution is to keep my foot out of it but i'd like to actually fix it, so its not an issue in the future, i'll try your suggestion probably this weekend, i don't get off work before dark so its hard to work on things during the week

ok, i noticed this yesterday, its just ever so slight, theres barely an inch wide drip on the concrete under it every night(you can't see the little drip on the crossmember there, but its there, the exhaust has oil on it i think from just driving with this drip...), but when i'm say getting on the highway, or going to pass someone, i sometimes smell burning oil, which is definately from this leak, and seems like the only time it happens is when the rpm's are up, which to me, is indicative of a rear main seal, like my bug had a similar issue, replaced it and it was fixed, and i've seen it in the past, so i'm thinking, since the drip is in the very back of the motor, right in the middle, rear main seal makes sense... but i guess i'm asking on here because i'm not totally familiar with this motor like i was my bug, or my rx7's, is there anywhere else it could be coming from that the leak would wind up right where it is? and if it is the rear main seal, what is the easiest route to fix it? i understand to pull the motor you have to pull the front diff, and i also don't have an engine hoist, so would removing the transmission(and i'd guess the transfer case) be the easiest way for me to do this? and how is the flywheel held on to the motor? like my bug and my rx7's it was just a massive nut directly to the flywheel, can i expect the same on the pathfinder? this is the only problem this thing has, it still runs great, though i'm wondering if the leak didn't come about because i changed from i'm guessing 10w40 to 5w30, maybe i should go back to 10w40, or even 20w50?

i got mine like 2 and a half months ago, maybe 3 months, it had about a month total of being off the road, for my ecu being replaced, and a wheel bearing i couldn't afford to have fixed, and i've already put over 4000 miles on it, working on 5k now... it had 179k on it when i got it, now its got 183k... its doing great, its run great since i got it, with the exception of the 2 issues previously mentioned. edit: and the previous owner also replaced the transmission(yet didn't install an aftermarket cooler, they were real smart...), so its got a fairly new one of those...

the only thing my 90 has is rust patches on the very bottom of the body right in front of the rear wheel wells, nothing major, afaik its just surface rust, and i'm gonna be fixing it pretty soon... but mines been in the dallas area its whole life i believe.

this thread made me go check my rear frame yesterday lol, lucky for me my 90's in great shape all over.

i didn't even think to ask if it was new or used, the got me for 390 on the ecu, i probably should have looked around my area, see if i could find a better deal, but not having a vehicle makes that a bit tough... but i got it back thursday night, and drove 120 miles to my girlfriends place, then the 310 miles back home, and it was without issue, which was such a relief. total was 760 after taxes, if i could have gotten it home i could have easily done it myself, it was exactly what i thought, the black/white wire with silver dots got replaced, as well as the ecu...

pick it up today, they replaced the wire that burned out, no other damage to the harness, and replaced the ecu... can't wait to drive it, i've been jonesing.

generally 1 and 2 are used when towing to hold it in gear longer, and the power-at switch can pretty much stay in the auto position(i'm assuming your 93 is like my 90) all the time, as it'll detect when you floor it and hold it in gear longer... i dunno about overdrive off, i always leave it on lol...

guy just called me from metric motors talking about all these clipped wires underneath the kick panel, and itd cost like 340 to even start looking at it, and i was like no way man i didn't clip all those wires! i clipped the 1 wire that burned out, that i traced all the way to the ecu, i told him how it used to have an alarm system, and i'm guessing when the previous owner removed it, all they did was clip the wires out and call it good... those wires definately had nothing to do with this stuff lol, so he's going to look back at the white/black wire with silver dots, and get back to me tomorrow

yeah i don't doubt it... seems like car problems are the story of my life lol... this pathfinder had a wheel bearing go out a week after i got it, loads of fun there

so i drove my pathfinder to oklahoma city yesterday, from dallas, and way early in the morning, like 5am there was a huge storm, had to slow down to 30mph, wipers on full blast... so i get to oklahoma city and i go to park, and during the turn, i hear a fuse pop and my dash goes dead... the meter fuse... so i put another fuse in, a 20amp, instead of the 10, that one pops too... being the dumbass i can be, i use a dime instead, and melt the wire... car won't start when the fuse is popped, and definately not when the wire was clipped, the shifter interlock won't come off... wire is white with a black stripe and intermittent silver dots on it... so i clip the wire a few inches from the fuse block, and trace it, it goes to the harness on what i'm assuming is the ECU(under the passenger seat), and i even saw where it was broken, just under the kick panel right by where i usually put my feet, and it seemed kind of moist, so i'm guessing the rain caused it to actually short out... so i run a temp wire straight from the harness to the fuse block, and still won't start... so i disconnect that wire, and i disconnect my battery for about 20 minutes... connect it back up, and turn the key, the starter works, but it won't start, just cranks and cranks... and when i reconnect that wire to the ecu it won't start anymore, the same exact issue... tried disconnecting the battery again but it wouldn't start after that, though i didn't disconnect it for too long... so its dead, got it towed to a shop in oklahoma city(place called metric motors), gonna call them on monday... i think the ecu is hosed, but i don't really know, i've only even had this thing for a month now... what does it sound like to you guys? anyone know where i could get a used ECU if thats the case?