RWC5S2

A little WD40 will help it go back in and make sure you clean out the inside threads that grip the bolt. Might need to tap it with a hammer to seat it.

If you look into locking the front you will see that it is mainly reccommended for rock crawling only. Unless you want to start running really nasty trails I would not lock the front. The steering and C/V problems were already addressed. Having the rear end capable of being fully locked will solve virtually any off road driving problems you will encounter. There is also the problem of the design of the vehicle. With all the cheesy plastic bumper junk on the R-50 you do not have enough ground clearance (departure and approach angle) to justify front lockers. Even a after market front bumper will require the same measurements to protect the PS lines and the radiator. My 2003 with the KMA front bumper and Skid Plate still hit bigger rocks. Now I slide over them or off to the side. I also put in the 2" lift, 1" strut spacer and all the skids from 4x4parts.com to protect the entire bottom. Also added rock sliders to complete the rig. I had to have the rear bumper made by a local guy as no one sells them. I gained 9" of departure angle but still have the stock front bumper height. If running with a fully lockable rear does not solve your trail problems you need to really re-think what you are wanting to do. I could have done a rear locker and saved a few bucks but hind sight is always 20-20.

I got my front bumper from Kennesaw Mountain Accessories (KMA). They were the only one that had it in stock, so they said as it still took 4-5 weeks to get it. Nice bumper though with a lot of options for winch, lights, recovery points etc.

I place my 4-way lug wrench and a tow strap inside the itsy bitsy box. Might be good for a few joints that are hermetically sealed. Re; the tits on a boar comment, I figure that if the boar likes them who are we to judge.

I will try for a photo. My old camera just died so I have to install new software to edit pic's so I shall try and get that handled today.

I do not doubt the yard was mistaken or called it something else. The yard also knew what I was doing with the new parts (switching to LSD and changing gears from 4:36 to 4:63) as well what this all had to fit. I got the rear 3rd member (pumpkin) and front diff as pictured in your photo. The pumpkin was clearly a LSD unit with all the little clutches and such. Everything just bolted right up like it was made for the application. I suppose they could have dug up the correct front diff and rear 3rd member and just gone along with what I thought it was supposed to be called.

Well, that is exactly what I did. The pictured part is what I was sent and I bolted it in with no problem. I could only assume the junk yard sent me the right stuff as I changed out the front and rear diff's. Either they called the parts something else and lied to me about where they came from or one of us is really wrong. Either excuse is plausible knowing my luck. I guess all that counted is that it was an LSD unit and it was the higher gears, it fit perfectly and worked out great.

I got the front diff (for lack of a better term) from the Xterra. It is basically the front gearing, housing without any axels. I just dropped the stocker and bolted the new one right up to my original axels/CV's. It is short with different lengths on each side. You have to use the 2002-2004 Xterra as I recall but it is a perfect fit. The 3rd member is also a plug and play application. Hope that makes sense.

I got a 3rd member and front diff out of an Xterra for my R-50. I switched from 4:36 to 4:63 in the process and the new unit is a LSD. After getting stuck a zillion times with out the LSD I experienced a dramatic difference with the LSD. Both rear wheels pushing at the same time and the new gears made the rig a whole new vehicle. I did get stuck 2 times but it was due to the 33x9.5x15 tires which are just too skinny. The current 32x11.5x15 solved that problem. I did note that the new front diff out of the Xterra will change which tire gets the power depending on what is needed at the time. It actually switched from left to right and back as I went thru obstacles. Why, I have no clue. It acted like a LSD unit but maybe I was just too heavily medicated that day but, It has done that several times on my last outings. With the LSD I could cruise through obstacles that caused all kinds of problems before. Lockers are superior, that is for sure. But ARB wanted around $1,800 for a rear locker for the R-50's, about half what they charge for others. IMHO you will like the LSD unit. It is not designed for rock crawling but, neither is a Pathfinder. If that is what you are looking for then sell the rig, buy a jeep and raise it 5-6 inches with 35" tires. If you want to go off-roading, be able to go through reasonable obstacles, have fun and get home then I would go the LSD route. I have virtually no trouble keeping up with my friends who all run lifted Jeeps with 33-35" tires, unless they go rock crawling. Then I just watch them break stuff while I go around and have just as much fun but do not have to get towed home. You should be able to get both the 3rd member and front diff for around $500 - $600. If you are just switching out the rear 3rd member make sure the gearing is correct to match your front diff. Don't get a 46 for the rear if the front is a 43.

I concur. Much lower price and make sure it is signed up for AARP and MEDI-CARE before buying.

I shall try to download some photo's. Keep in mind I am an old fart that computers love to taunt and I have had trouble getting any of the places like Image Shack to work for me.

Go with the AC like I did for my 2003. They are very nice, do not destry your street driving, work great for off-road and make the rig look fantastic.

My 2003 SE loves the Warn Hubs. So will yours.

I have the AC lift with 1" front spacers. Running 32x11.5x15 AT tires ( no rubbing issues unless extreme stuffing is going on). Love the lift, rides great and is about 4" over stock. No sagging issues after over a year and some pretty good wheeling. Lots of steel plate unden neath.

I have the AC lift on my 2003 SE plus 1" strut spacers. I am running 32x11.5x15. I was running 33x9.5 but sold them since they have pretty poor sand traction.

Just keep pressure on the brake pedal when crossing water and no wet brakes or. not nearly as wet and dries out faster.

Yes, I am saddened to say Buicks are not rocks. They do share some of the same driving traits but it just will never be a rock.

How about getting the rear axel from a Xterra. I know they will fit as I did one, just forgot to get discs, Doh!

I love my 2003 SE. It is not the best way to go for after market off-road goodies but you can raise it and get some workable clearance. My 2003 has the AC lift, 32x11.5x15 tires full armor underneath, custom rear bumper, 4:63 LSD from a Xterra with matching front end and cheap off-road lights that still work and it is ok if they break. The front was made by KMA and it worked out well. If you go used make sure you find one with a LSD unit. I didn't know squat about off-roading before buying the 03 and just wanted to go wheeling with the kids and such. I actually thought 4x4 really meant 4x4, not 2x4, 3x4 or some other such drivel when you engaged the 4 wheel drive. I would also look for the 4:63 gearing vs the 4.36. Big time difference when you go with bigger tires. The 01-03 R-50's are much closer to grocery getters as stock due to departure angles and such but if you are not into rock crawling and want a rig that will get you dirty and bring you home they are very nice rigs. Actually if you want a rig that will get you into places you most likely don't belong and then brijng you back they are great. The folks I run with are mainly JEEP freaks running 4"-6 " of lift and 33" to 35" tires but I still manage to keep up, well except for the Buick sized rocks which is not what I wanted anyway.

Run away, run away, run away. But, that is just my humble opinion.

A good quality magnetic roof mont will have adequate protection bewteen the mount and your roof. Yes, it can get knocked around by over hangs and such. You can put a spring base between the base and antenna but make sure you are using a wire whip (like the Wilson) and not a glass whip which weighs much more and requires a really big spring. A good stainless steel whip will not really need a spring base since it flexes easily. And if the base should get knocked over it rarely does any damage. The really good part of the magnetic roof mount is that your entire metal roof becomes the ground plane which makes the antenna easier to tune with the SWR Meter plus increases the antenna's over all range and efficiency.

WOW! Now, that would be worth the price of admission. Hope you can make it work.

I have the AC lift with 1" strut spacers. I am running 32x11.5x15 tires and have virtually no rubbing. Only had to trim the excess plastic inside the wheel wells. I had 33x9.5x15 but the tires were just too thin for sandy condition in the Mojave Desert. I am running Bilstein shocks with Rancho struts. A very nice combo for both on and off road. I did need longer camber bolts but no big deal as I had an alignment shop do the front alignment. I tried a K&N filter but experienced no real difference in performance. Only made the engine a little louder. I would install Warn hubs for sure. It is nice to be able to disconnect the CV joints while on the street and only run 4wheel while in the dirt. Does save wear and tear on the CV's. If you lift the rig and go with bigger tires you are going to get much worse MPG's. No way to solve that. The Warn hubs and after market air filters will get you maybe 2 more MPG, that is a big maybe. I am going to start running higher octance gas just to see if the MPG's go up.

I mounted my CB on the passenger side of the center console just in front of the seat. It is a slim profile CB and does not get in the way at all. I went with a Wilson Magnetic mount antenna and just run the lead thru the rear door or the rear hatch. This works very well and the Wilson is very easy to tune. I have not had any leaks of other negative problems. I used a 12volt power adapter (cigarette lighter style) so I can take the radio out quickly if needed. The wiring tucks down into the right seat and goes under the rear floor mats.

I did the AC lift plus 1" strut spacers. I have 32's that fit with no major trimming at all, just cutting off some excess plastic. You will top-out but just go slow over speed bumps to avoid the trouble. That is why they are called speed bumps, supposed to slow down. A set of Warn hubs will do wonders for excessive wear to the CV's and they are very easy to install, not to mention they are pretty cheap. Lift it, add some inexpensive steel rims and have fun. They are great rigs that will take you all over the place.