RWC5S2

Oh, sure. It's the hardware's fault. lol...............looking pretty good.

I have seen threads in here addressing that issue. I don't think there is that much difference but do a search to make sure.

I just checked Ebay......did a search for "nissan bull bar" there are lots and they are about $120.00

When I pulled my front bumper off to install the KMA bumper I found no sensors, only plastic and a couple of metal brackets. If you are adding lights other than the factory fog lights you will need to put some metal reinforcement behind the bumper where you want to bolt the new lights. The OEM bumpers are junk and offer no support or protection, just cosmetics.

I'm not sure there is a "cheap" anything for the newer R-50's. Best bet is to Google "nissan bull bars and/or check Ebay. You might find ARB and/or OME makes them. Also check 4x4parts.com.

You should be able to fit a 30" tire on the rig with no problems. The only rubbing you should get would be on maximum turns and that would be very minor.

Hi Tyler. Just got home from 3-day trip. If it helps I can wait for mine.

That is quite possible. My memory ain't what it used to be.

I got my front bumper from KMA. It took a couple of weeks longer than expected but that was the only problem and the fit was excellent. The quality is good and the options available are great. Guess it is the luck of the draw on them as I know others have had problems. I think the only problem with the ARB was having to trim/cut off a CB antenna mounting point but you should confirm that first.

What the heck. I have been waiting for a year for some one to make decent spacers, or any other after market R50 parts, so I guess another week will not matter in the long run.

I went around my wheel wells with a sharp blade and cut off most everything that extended beyond the fasteners. I also drilled a few holes to zip-tie the plastic higher up in the well. Worked well and my 33's only rub if I really stuff them up inside.

Works for me. Just let me know when they are ready to go. Thanks again for the effort.

I have been told by folks that actually rebuild rear ends that you need both LSD Oil and the LSD Additive to properly maintain the LSD. Something about the discs needing all the friction in the LSD oil they can get. It is supposed to make them last much longer. Any how, that is what I did and it works great.

I have had great success with my LSD off-roading. Normally the left wheel only turns but now I can feel the right side kick in when the left loses traction. True, it is not a locker but, it did not cost $2000 and it fills my needs. Guess it depends on where your are wheeling.

You will burn out the clutches in the LSD unit by running regular oil. I use LSD Oil plus an additive to make sure there is sufficient lubrication and friction to run the LSD. I did talk to a guy that rebuilds rear ends and was told that using the additive plus the LSD oil will make the LSD work much better, not to mention last longer.

The only ones I know about are OME and the AC lift coils. The OME choices are the best other than finding a custom shop to build new coils. They most likely have the closest thing to stock. A slight lift will new coils will not hurt anything, carry a bigger load and the rig will look better. A win-win situation.

All the above info is excellent. I would have to ask why bother with a 1/2" of lift? If that is all you want over stock height just buy some bigger tires. I have the A/C lift which is advertised as 2" but is actually closer to 3". It will sag some after time, mainly in the front. This amount of lift will not trash the CV's all by itself. Quite a few folks on this board are running the AC lift and have been for a long time. Mine is over 1 year old. I have been places I most likely should have not gone but made it through quite well. The guys I off-road with are all Jeepers with 4-6" of lift and like to crawl over rocks the size of a Buick. Almost all trails have an easier route if you are not into the rocks. I do run 33" tires which helps get over bigger obstacles. The R-50's all come with 33 spline axels which are unreal strong. You would have to do something really stupid to break one. I have added the Warn Hubs to mine which is an easy and pretty cheap addition. With them you can dis-connect the front axels while not off-road. Also, if you do actually snap a CV joint you can still disconnect and drive home. The Warn's are just a great safety precaution for wheeling in the pucker bushes. Guess it boils down to what you want to do in the dirt. The Pathfinders are very sturdy off-roaders. Mine does stuff that all the Jeep folks can not believe. Keep in mind that the more off-roading you do, the more you want to do. What looks like a really scary obstacle the first time will fast become nothing more than a speed bump and you will want to do more things. My humble opinion, and it is not guranteed to be worth much, is to go for the AC lift ( or similar OME ), run at least 31" tires, get the Warn Hubs and pick up a limited slip diff. You will be amazed and very happy with what your Pathfinder will do for you.

Save your self some bucks and get the AC lift and spacers to install at the same time. Unless you are set up to do it yourself then it won't matter. I have to pay some one to do mine since I do not have the required tools. That and the spring compressor would most likely break and rip my head off.

It will add 1" to the AC lift. You only need 1 pair. One spacer per side for the 1" lift. They will not work on the rear.

I have the AC lift and am adding 1" spacers in the front. I am running 33x9.5x15 BFG AT's with very, very little rub. I did add the Warn Hubs so I only use the CV's when in the dirt. I was thinking of going with 2" of spacer lift in the front but after jacking up the front and seeing the actual radical increase on the CV angle from 1" to 2" decided to just go with the 1". The 9.5's are not good for sandy conditions but work quite well on dirt and rock.

Cool. Thanks for the info. I shall be salivating in anticipation of receiving my shiney new spacers.

Now I know the length but, what size bolts are they, 3/8, 1/4, 1/2 etc. Since the bolts have to be replaced to accommodate the spacers does it matter if they are fine or coarse thread? Would it be better to use a lock washer or just torque them down.

I can get the bolts here. Just need the right size. Sorry to hear you lunched your engine. I will Pay-Pal you the $50.00 deposit.

Hi Tyler. I left you a PM but will post here too. Count me in for 1 set. Hopefully they are 1" but what the heck. Let me know where you prefer the money to be sent. If I understand right the total will be $110.00 which includes postage. Also, if you could let me know the size of the Grade 8 bolts I will need it would be a big help.

I must admit to appreciating a little luxery while in the dirt. Every one I go with has a Jeep and, yes they can go places I can not, mainly due to them having 5"-6" of lift, 35" tires, disconnects, etc. But, I can run my AC all day long with out over heating. This is nice in the hot, dusty, miserable desert out here in So. Calif. A little bit of creature comfort is a good thing.