adamzan

I think mine has the same leak, is the size of the oil drop a bit bigger than a quarter?

I'll be changing mine soon, and yeah its probably your alt/fan belt. I'll take some pics when I do it so you can see. Also be carefull with the adjuster bolt, the long one. I snapped the head off mine and just use a crowbar to move it now. Mine slips so bad that when it howls the battery light comes on inside the truck.

The weather here in canada sure loves to cooperate with my plans The truck is parked out side and If i move it it'll get stuck. Hopefully it'll dry out so I can get started again. If I cut a piece of steel for the side and bottem and have the bottom bent to the form and weld those 2 together, would that do the trick? Oh does anyone have the stock rear shocks? Mine broke off and I need temporary replacements. I couldn't get those clips out for the adjustable shocks so I just cut the wire at the shock. These are so shot that I can slide them up and down with my hands. What do i do with those hanging wires?

I have bosche platinums, seems to run just fine, where does it reccomend NGK's?

I'm definitly not getting rid of the truck, its in too good of mechanical condition to part it out. I was thinking that if I can't get a piece of another frame, that I could maybe take off that one coil spring holder thing(whats it called?) and weld in a frame cap. The frame is solid from the lower controls arms down to the front of the truck. How does that sound? I've been thinking about it for a while now in between other stuff dealing with a death in the family.

Yeah Im surprised too, I had a look at them and they're still coated in some kind of rust proofing as is the rest of the frame down to the front of the truck.

How long to you think it'd take to take the rear end frame of another pathy and weld it in on mine? Can I just keep the donor frames panhard rod crossmember mount thing and its upper link mount? Because What else after the lower control arms is attached to the frame?

Money for me is real tight right now, so I can't even afford to buy a parts pathy. Although coincidentally there is an 88 for sale up the road from mine. All I can pay for is the new shocks in the rear and the metal that I bought (3/16 plate) to cut and try to weld in. Edit: One other thing is, you know those metal shrowds that cover part of the roter, those were kinda rotted on each side so I just ripped them off, can you get replacements and are they neccessary?

Sandor, how much did that set you back? Must have been pricey. People keep telling me that I'll never get a safety passed. Man, they sure do like to wreck your dreams these days don't they?

Grinding is the easy part, its the welding in the new thats gonna be hard. I don't know how but I ended up owning 3 angle grinders and never used any of them. I took out the cheapest one today. Is there an easy and cheap way to fix this? Plus there is all that mud and S**t in there that I have to clean out. There was a big pile on the floor today:(

I've seen some pics, but none really compare to the magnitude of mine. Its hard when theres just 2 people lol. I'm trying to get more buddies to help me out.

Just south of ottawa.

The bottom of the frame is in pretty sad shape and some of the sides as well. From after the lower control arm mounts back its kinda bad too. Someone on here suggested a frame cap, Something like this i guess? [___]??

Could use some advice, and turns out both my shocks broke off so I just took them off temporarily. This truck is not on the road yet FYI. Frame work is hard. I need all the help I can get. And I can't get rid of this truck. Oh and I cleared off the large amount of snow off, so it seems to sit more level now.

Google brings up this linky Seems like a good idea, might have to obtain some.

I tried synthetic in my 93 SE-V6, and it started leaking from somewhere :confused: , so we switched it over to 20w50 heavy duty oil.

Im pretty sure that the gauge is reading right, mine always read around 1/4 when on the road, and when I was using it off the road, it'd go up to about half way, because there was not as much air circulating through like on the road.

Good to see that things have turned around for you. Welcome back.

But isn't the lever a direct link to the tcase, which means when you push it into 2wd, your arm action moves the gear? Are you actually moving it into the actual 2wd position and still feel the wheels being powered? Maybe its just taking more effort because the hubs are still locked and the diff in the front has to rotate by just the wheel power. And yeah, changing fluids is a good idea.

Thanks, I've already found some nice ones in TOTM. And I can't wait to see that font. thanks A LOT.

In mine, if you don't go in the opposite direction 3 meters is it? The light will remain on even if you go to 2wd from 4hi or lo. Also mine used to be very stiff a long time ago but changing the fluid to a synthetic and using it more often helped that.

Who wants their truck on the site? I need pics of each kind, like 2 door, 4 door wd21, 96-99 r50, 99.5-2004 r50 and the 2005 ups. Post your best pics!!!

I would do exactly that, but in that thread, they do not happen to mention what fonts that they are. Anybody know what they are, I'm talking about the ones that people showed as close to it? There are no indications of what they are. And once its done, ill post in on the web somewhere and give you guys a linky.

I have to make a website in flash, and since this is quite a hick town I figured I'd make it about trucks, and immediatly decided to make it about pathfinders. Anyone got any idea on what font to use the the word PATHFINDER?? I saw the other post about the font but it hasn't been completed I guess. I'd appreciate the help. thanks adam

My 93 when it was on the road, ran on 20w50 in the summer and 15w40 in the winter in ottawa. Never once a problem with the engine and its at 340000kms.