RustyButTrusty

I thought I'd start with the simple stuff first, and I was wondering if the two vacuum lines that connect to the sensor have to be connected in a certain order. I unplugged them the other day, and I when I plugged them back up, I may have attached them backwards? Would this cause an issue, or does it matter which port the hoses are hooked to?

I've recently noticed that the vacuum motor on the snorkel was not opening and closing the valve that directs air from outside or from the stovepipe. It was constantly open (allowing outside air). I found that there was a plug in the vacuum line, fixed that, and now I have the opposite problem being constantly closed (only drawing in hot air). I've done some looking around and found that the little gizmo inside the air cleaner is supposed to sense the temperature and apply vacuum to the vacuum motor accordingly?? So I'm guessing somethings wrong with this sensor, but I'm not sure how to check for sure. I read on another post here that there is an adjustment screw on it, but I don't see on on mine. Any thoughts on what I should check?

Good point, I just couldn't come up with anything i had lying around to snake through the hose. Zip tie would work great though...

I think I can help! First thing you need to take out your glovebox, and then take out the flat metal plate behind it. After you get all that done look for the blower motor resistor, which is in the middle of the box, has a bit of wiring going to it, and is more than likely held on by to phillips head screws. Now if your having the same problem I did, once you take that resistor out, you see a good bit of standing water inside that box, which is causing your problem. Check firstly that it is water, and not antifreeze leaking from the heater core. I got a wet vac and a small towel and mopped up all the water I could, and then put the resistor back in. Next, there is a rubber hose attached to the bottom of the heater box that you were just cleaning out. It exits through the fire wall, and acts as a drain for all that water. Now I used an air compressor, to blast a bit of pressure through that hose, and it broke the clog free and water came gushing out. Don't know if this is your problem or not, but if it is, it's an easy fix and you should be leak-free in no time

X2 Lol. My chime starts dinging when I press on the arm rest too hard or go around a curve. I can just tell people it's a "rollover alert"

Mine is "Flare Red Pearl" according to Nissan.

That did the trick! Cheers!

Aha! Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks so much for your help, hopefully this'll fix the problem.

Hey man appreciate the help! I've got that side of the hose hooked up, but I'm still wondering where the other end goes. I know it connects to a port up underneath the air cleaner, just not sure which one.

Actually the engine runs right nicely for have close to 300k on it. Reason I suspected a vacuum problem was that the hose going to the actuator was unhooked, and I'm not quite sure where to hook it back at. Although like you mentioned it may be a combination of electrical and vacuum problems.

Here recently I noticed the cruise control in my 88 pathfinder isn't working. When you push the set button the green light comes on showing that it's set, but nothing happens. I'm pretty sure this is a vacuum related problem. The service manual I have however doesn't give any info for the cruise control set up, and I'm needing a diagram that shows me where the vacuum hoses are routed. Does any one have such a diagram that they wouldn't mind sharing? Thanks!

I'm content to just have 3 speeds for now, especially since it's warming up outside. Sound's like you lucked up with hopefully just your resistor going bad. They're alot easier to replace than the switch.

Thanks for all the tips guys. Got it on yesterday evening with no problem, looks pretty good too for $19!

Well I got one of the rivet tools today along with some stainless steel screws today at Harbor Freight. The rivet tool was only like $17 and it came with plenty of the riv-nuts. Yeah I'm really hoping I won't have any leaks, although the 95 pathfinder I took my rack off of had no silicone. There wasn't any leaking signs, but I'm going to use plenty of silicone to make sure!

Koito makes some great stuff. Lots of foreign cars come with them from the factory. I have an Acura Integra that has the Koito bulbs and at 172k they are still working!

I was under the impression that jack nuts and threaded inserts were the same thing? I don't have a rivet gun on any of the inserts. So how do these jack nuts attach, and is it easy enough to find the appropriate sized bolts with the right length and flat enough head? Appreciate the insight!

Ok so I'm getting ready to install one of the black factory roof racks off of a 95 pathfinder on my 88 that never had one mounted on it? The rack was attached to the 95 with those jack nut/ riv-nut things? I'm probably not going to be putting much at all or anything on this rack. Will sheet metal screws work, or should I try and figure out what rivnuts and bolt sizes to use?

Well in the picture it shows 4 of the rectangular lights mounted on it. In the pics it is mounted on the vehicle so I assume all of the mounting hardware and the gasket are there. I'm gonna find out some more info... condition etc. Thanks!

Well I have found a factory light bar of of an 1988 pathfinder. The guy is asking $125 not including shipping. What do ya'll think about the price?

Okay thanks. Are these bushings Nissan only parts, or can they be purchased from a local auto parts store?

Thanks for the suggestions. The panhard rod is still in place. As far as the bushings go, how can I tell if they need to be replaced other than obvious dry rot? I'm guessing when you replace these bushings you just get new ones, not from the junkyard right? The pathfinder has about 285k miles on it so I'm sure they have their fair share of wear...

Ok so this problem has been bugging me for a long time. When you hit the gas pretty suddenly the back end kind of slides to one side, and then when you let off the gas real quick the rear end feels like it drops on one side a little bit, and then slides back again. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings, which seemed to help a little at first, but now I can't really notice any change. I have a pretty big hole under the rear seats kinda in between where the two body mounts on either side are, but soon i'm going to weld in a new foorpan. Any other common problems that could cause this or other things to check? Thanks!

This happened awhile back to my 88, and it turned out that the cable needed to be replaced. Over time the square ends of the cable become rounded and cause the speedo to be jumpy or not work at all.

I'd have been wondering if the switch was the culprit, I was just hoping it wasn't. From what I've seen they are a doozy to replace. So are the contacts in the switch serviceable or am I stuck with having to put in a different switch? Appreciate the help!

Nope no excess resistance. Recently the motor was replaced, and I checked the fuses. Is there a relay somewhere that might be causing problems?