RustyButTrusty

Okay what I was looking at earlier wasn't the resistor. My resistor was all taped up to where I couldn't see it, so I was able to test it and it appears to be good as the resistance is right at 2.2k ohms. I'm thinking my gauge must be on the brink. Thank you!

Okay thanks for clearing that up. So I found the connector that goes to what I think is the resistor pack which has four wires including the white wire. I wasn't sure which other wire besides the white wire to hook my meter up to to test resistance, so I tested the other 3 and against the white one and the only resistance reading I got was 1,460 ohms between the white wire and the blk/white wire below it (as seen in the crude diagram below). So the resistance is supposed to be 2.2k ohms? Since my reading is not 2.2k or really all that close I'm guessing my resistor pack may possibly be causing the issue then? White Blk/white Blk/white Blue

Okay I found the wire you were talking about, and the wire itself was just about to break off from the plastic connecter. So I fixed it, but the tach still worked on and off with it unplugged, and I'm still having the same problems with the repaired wire. I'm just curious as to where actually the tach receives it's signal from? I'm thinking the issue is with whatever sends the signal, because the tach never jumps or reads incorrectly it just seems to loose the signal from the wire and then eventually get it back.

Oh so the tach has a connection to the distributor as well? And where is this ground/single wire you mentioned?

Thanks! I'll check this out.

Try putting your transmission in neutral when shifting from 2wd to 4wd and vice versa. I don't think you technically have to since its supposed to be shift on the fly, but it just seems easier on things.

Here recently my tachometer has been acting up. I noticed while driving one day the needle just dropped down to 0, stayed there for a while, and then started working just fine again. This happens every now and then and it seems to be totally random, and sometimes stays not working for a while and sometimes not long at all. I took the instrument cluster out and checked all the connections and the screws that hold the tach to the plastic case and circuit board. Based on the wiring diagram I have the tach gets its signal from the coil? I checked these connections too and they were clean and tight, so I'm not sure of really what else to check. Any thoughts greatly appreciated, thanks!

Yep the 4 wheel drive systems, excluding the 4wd indicator light, is all mechanical. Its possible that there is a problem with the auto locking hubs, or maybe a linkage problem with the lever. Not too sure, but I'm sure someone with more knocklege will be able to help you out. Good luck!

Michelin Hydro edge tires if they make them in the size you need. They are pretty pricey, but they last forever and perform very well.

And for some reason people can't understand why I like these vehicles so much...

What he said, I had this exact problem.

I think usually the rubber comes unglued from the metal bracket that is attached to the frame, at least thats what happened in my case. I went to the junkyard a got a pair for next to nothing. The problem is that the bolts that hold the brackets on tend to be very rusty and break inside the frame, and it's a pain to drill out because of the small clearance between the axle and frame. I just spot welded mine back in place, however I was hesitant to weld to the frame since you aren't supposed to do that. So I welded to the top spring tower and tried to keep off the main frame. They have held up very well. I would recommend putting something back on there because if you have much weight at all in the back and your suspension is a little weak, your tires will rub the fenderwells.

Yeah you're lucky to have one in that shape. Originally it was from PA (long long time ago) and it has been to the beach several times which hasn't helped things. Just about all of them at the junkyards are rusted out under the rear seats. If it were me I'd take the one you have and go get it rustproofed somewhere, because eventually you will start to notice rust popping up.

If I'm not mistaken the fluid in the shock absorbers has some sort of magnetic material in it, which effects the flow of the fluid depending on the position of the switch. I think....

The 88 we have is almost right at 300,000 miles and still runs incredibly. If these cars had better rust resistance they would probably last forever. Someday I would like to go and by a 2 door model from a very dry climate with no rust whatsoever. Then I'd undercoat and rust proof it like crazy, and I'd be set for a very long time...

I am wanting to replace the top part of my dashboard in my 95 with one that doesn't have cracks. I was wondering if someone could give me a run down of the steps to remove the dash, as in what all has to be disconnected/unbolted. Thanks!

Thanks, I'll have to check them out.

Oh really? Is your dimmer switch in the middle of the dash and your rear window release switch in the center console?

You are correct! Now if only we knew this information beforehand I just was hoping someone could tell me if the seat heater switches are backlit. I'm thinking they aren't, and I really don't feel like taking my center console out just to see. I've gotta find out though, I have this thing where I don't like having burned out light haha.

I fixed them all on my 88. For anyone who cares to know this is a list of everything on the dash that is back lit (not counting indicator lights) in an 88 model. Maybe all square dash models as well? Instrument cluster Cigar lighter Ash tray Glove box Hazard light switch Rear defroster switch Cruise control switch Heater control panel Gear change on automatic transmission in center console Replacement bulbs for all of the switches can be purchased at radio shack.

Hey does anyone know what of the if the heater seat switches in a 95 pathfinder are illuminated? I know there is an indicator light, but I was wondering if the switch is supposed to light up so you can see it at night?

That piece of info help me immensely thank you! You appear to be correct about using the hardbody rockers for the front, however most of my rust is towards the middle/back. The only thing that concerns me is that the my 2 door appears to have different seams than the 4 door because of the door configuration. I'm thinking they may work though. Now are these panels just the outer panel or are they the inner panel as well?

Oh okay, thanks. I'm sure if anything it'll be easier to trim those a little if needed than to fab up some. Is there any way you could possibly measure the length of these replacements for me, that way I can know how much exactly these will replace?

Does anyone know if the 2 door and 4 door rocker panels are interchangable?

If you find out what's causing it, please let me know! My 88 is doing the same exact thing with the rpms jumping around by a couple hundred. The diagnostics said something with my revolution sensor, but I have doubts to if thats the problem or not. I was told that there is a solenoid valve that controls the operation of the torque converter. Maybe this solenoid is going haywire and not letting the TQ make up its mind....