5523Pathfinder

When I had my Z32, guys would relocate the sensor to the side of the block. Would still work in bad knock conditions, but wouldnt get triggered so often. IN the real world, the sensor can be triggered due to many different things. Make sure your timing is correct. Recent tune up? What kind of fuel are you running? Are there any other engine issues?

Looking good Jim! Say, did you ever change the PCV valve? If its stuck open, it may explain the oil loss issue. Plus, its a cheap fix. Take it out and give it a shake. It has a one-way check valve in it. If it doesnt rattle, it may be stuck. Just a thought.... Derek

I know this is a bit late but, can you unlock/lock the doors with the key? Try both sides. If one does not work correctly, you make have a lock switch going bad. Remove said door panel and water seal. Take a flashlight and look up at the key cylinder. There should be a small magnet attached. This magnet must pass the other when lockin or unlocking. Sometimes, the magnet will just come loose and may be sitting in the bottom of the door.

Oh, I got somewhere. I borrowed a friends new Micky Thompson Baja MTZ, and mounted it on my spare. I found they stick out from the wheel just a bit more but not too much. I did a little comparasing between the two tires.. I then removed the front wheel and did some full lock tests. Found it would rub when turned to full lock. Any kind of flexing would chew up more stuff.. Well, I really dont want to remove the mudflaps or fender flares, so I will go back to locating some 10.5's. I did some more fitting in the rear, just for giggles... I did like the way they looked, but not too sure I want to deal with problems it may bring, as this is my DD we are talking about. Thanks guys for all your input!

Good stuff guys. Yes, I have made some fender adjustments for my original tires already(a little nip/tuck). Good to know it may be fine. I found out a guy I work with is running 12.50's on his jeep. He said I can use his spare for test fitting. Thanks again all. If you got anything else to add, please do so!

Ok, before I get carried away with hours of searching(I have spent plenty of time in the Tire Review thread), I was wondering who is running a 15x8 wheel, with a 12.50 tire? Im considering purchasing some new BFG KM2's and the 12.50 is easier to find, than the 10.50. Anyway, not to concerned about the tire brand, just want to make sure they will fit. Any info is much appreciated!

Just put Hawk LTS pads on my rig. Found the first few days, they would squeak the first or second time stopping. Now, they dont do it at all. But, when I hit the brakes(I do often, thanks I-5), hang on! They grab very well in my opinion. I am still running stock rotors too(machined of course).

Looks good! Im jealous! Is he/you making a template? For some reason, a stump decided it liked my stepbar more than I did. This looks like the way to go! Why not spray bedliner on them instead of paint? That would give some durablity and grip for boots, would it not?

Here is from Alldata, but its mostly the same from the FSM... Cylinder Head Removal- Release fuel pressure. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove timing belt. Drain coolant by removing drain plugs from both sides of cylinder block. Separate the ASCD and accelerator cables from the intake manifold collector. Disconnect the following connectors: AAC valve Throttle sensor and throttle valve switch ignition coil Power transistor EGR control solenoid valve Air regulator EGR temperature sensor (California models only) Disconnect the water hoses from the collector, the heater hoses, and the PCV hose from the RH valve cover. Disconnect the vacuum hoses for the canister, master cylinder, and fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the purge hose from the canister. Disconnect the EGR tube, ground harness, and air duct hose. Remove the fuel feed and fuel return hoses from the injector fuel rail. Disconnect all the injector harness connectors. Remove the fuel rail assembly. Disconnect the Engine temperature switch connector, Thermal transmitter harness connector, and the water hose from the thermostat housing. Loosen the intake manifold bolts in the order shown above and remove the intake manifold. Remove both camshaft sprockets. Remove rear timing belt cover, distributor, and ignition wires. Note: Do not rotate distributor rotor after removing the distributor from the engine. Remove the harness clamp from the RH valve cover. Remove the front exhaust tube from the exhaust manifold. Remove the compressor and alternator. Remove the compressor and alternator brackets. Remove both valve covers. Remove the head bolts in 2 to 3 steps. Remove the cylinder head together with the exhaust manifold.

I dont believe 03's had the tire pressure monitoring system. If they did, I would assume its aftermarket or from a different country.

Take a picture of the one you are having a issue with, and post it. If its not the BPT valve, maybe its the EGR valve.

I dont recommend you just leave it. All four bolts carry the load, with only two of them holding, bad things are waiting to happen.

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. May also be the Idle Air Control Valve. Check your ECU for codes and let us know.

Did this get figured out? If not, your "not sutting off" issue is probably electrical. Possibly the ignition switch. When you turn your key off, it does not shut off, correct? If thats the case, I would removed the column covers and check for power at the "run" position when turning off your rig. Let us know.

Currently I use what we have available here at my work. Thats Kendall 5w-30 synthetic blend. Been using it for almost 4 years now.

I like Patherado. Makes me think of the Canyanero episode of the Simpsons...

IF you were installing new pads, you would need to collapse the pistons. Otherwise, the caliper would not fit back over the pads and rotor. There are many ways to do this. There are tools made specifically for this, and in some cases, dont cost a whole lot to buy. The way many people do it is to use a large pair of adjustable pliers and squeeze the piston back into the caliper. There is another way, but tougher. You can push on the brake pads while they are still in the caliper. Take a large screwdriver and go through the opening in the caliper(do not unbolt the caliper). You now can push on the pad toward the caliper pistons. Once they have moved a little, then you can put your pry tool inbetween the rotor and the pad and continue to push the pad over and collapse the piston. Any other questions, let me know!

Yeah, just trying to keep the noobs from hurting themselves! It can be done either way. On stock rigs I never loosen the torsion bolts, but I have the stuff laying around to do it safely. I dont want to hear about anyone getting hurt.

I would highly recommend you read the entire thread before doing this. Hopefully this will help the person who does not always work on thier rig. If you have any questions or comments, post 'em up or PM me. Hope this helps someone! Derek

Now you can reinstall your spap-ring, hubs, torque member, and new pads. Be sure to lubricate the back of the pads, as well as the ends. Swap the shims over from your old pads, and install your pads onto your torque member... You need to collapse the caliper pistons to fit over the new pads. This can be done with a pistion compressor, a couple pairs of pliers, C clamps, whatever works for you(Heck, I have collapsed them by using a prybar, pushing on the old pads before I removed them). Install the caliper and tighten everyting down. Now, do the other side!!! You should now be all back together. Double check everything to make sure you tightened it. If thats all good, go step on the brake pedal a few times. It should now feel somewhat stiff. You can now readjust your torsion bars back to where you orginally measured. Put the wheels back on and remove the jack stands. Put it down on the ground and doublecheck your ride height. Adjust now if needed. I recommend you go drive your rig and "burn in" the new pads and rotors. Get up to 30-50Mph and lay on the brakes with constant pressure, almost coming to a stop. Speed back up and perform again two more times. Now just drive your rig and let the brakes cool. If everything feels good, go home and drink that victory beer!!! (ok, I borrowed a camera for the pictures. I did not know they would turn out quite so grainy. I will shoot some different ones when I can. sorry.)

Here you can see how bad mine were... Grab your new axle and match them up. On some axles, you may need to move some parts from the old, to the new. Do so now. Here is the old and the new next to each other... Slide your new axles in and begin to bolt up. I recommend you start each bolt first before tightening. This will keep the sxle from getting cockeyed. Oh, if you need to hold the diff side in place, grab a prybar and you should be able to sneak it in a hold one of the ears on the stubb axle. Tighten down your bolts as needed, reinstall your shock, and lift the spindle assemlby into place. Be sure to get the lower balljoint in, then the axle. Put the nut on, then get your upper balljoint installed. Tighten everything down and reinstall the tie-rod end. Be sure to use new cotter pins after you tighten everything! Ok, now for bearings. Remove the grease seal from the back of the hub. Throw it away. Clean all of the old grease from your bearings. A parts washing tub would be great, but some rags, and brake clean will work. You are ready to pack your bearings full of grease. There are many ways to do this, but the simplest way is you put grease in your hand, and push the bearing down into it. Rotate and repeat. Make sure grease is coming out the other side of the race.. If you can get your hands on a bearing packer, it will quicken the job some(these are available at most parts stores).. Clean your hub of the old grease as needed. You can leave the grease that is in the middle of the hub(between the races), unless its nasty. Be sure to put some back! If you need to change the rotor or have it machined, now is the time to do it. Remove the 14mm bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Most parts stores offer machining or go to your local brake shop and have them turned. Clean your new rotor if you are replacing and reassemble. Drop in your inner bearing and tap in a new grease seal(I push in a little extra grease around the edges of the bearing before I tap in the seal). Slide your hub assemlby onto the spindle, and push. The inner bearing should sit all the way back. Grab your outer bearing(you grease it, right?) and push onto spindle. Push back as far as you can. It should slide on fairly easy if the hub is not tilted. If it get stuck, pull the hub toward you and till will release the outer bearing and start over. *Ok, some interesting thing are going to be pointed out here. You dont have to agree with them, Im just showing one way!!* If your bearing will just not push into the hub, grab a brass drift or similar(dont use metal as it may damage the bearing). You can lightly tap the bearing in. Do so in either a circular pattern, or back and fourth from side to side. The bearing will go in quite a way and you should not have to tap very hard. Once the bearing is in, put the spindle locknut on and twist in(clockwise). You should be able to see several threads showing on the spindle once you are seated. There is a tool for this, but most likely, you will not have one or will be able to get one(fashion your own if you want to). I take my phillip screwdriver and turn the locknut, and at the same time spin the rotor in the opposite direction. Do this until you can go any further.. Now, grap the keeper ring and set it up to the locknut. Holes on the keeper should line up with the small holes on the lock nut. I rotate the locknut clockwise until the next hole is visable. Be sure to spin the rotor to prevent binding... All of the holes should be aligned... You can now reinstall the small screws you didnt loose from eariler..

(There are other brake and CV threads, but none had pics. So, I thought I would post up my own) Well, my Pathfinder had not had new brake pads installed since I got it. I did notice after a month of owning him, the rotors felt warped. I machined them years ago and let it be. Fast forward 6-7 years and I noticed play in the wheel bearings and the brakes would squeak from time to time. Plus, running up and down I-5 has glazed my rotors, and stopping power was not that great. I looked and found I needed new CV boots on both sides(gotta love being lifted), so went ahead and replaced them also. Ok, are you ready to do it yourself? Here you go! First, get your tools! Sockets, ratches, Phillip and Straight screwdrivers, snap ring pliers, pliers, dikes,Alan wrenches or sockets, extensions, prybar, rags, grease(both for bearings and brakes), brake clean and paitences. Second, lets be safe and get the front end up on jackstands. You may need a jack to lift up on the lower control arm later on. If you are lifted(or not), I highly recommend lowering the Torsion bars to take tension off of the front end, as you will be removing parts. Here is a picture of your torsion bar adjusters... You will need to measure before you being unloading. Take any point of reference at the bolt, A-arm, fender, whatever works for you. When you reassemble, you will need to make everything match as before you took it apart. Clean the threads on the adjuster bolt, then loosen locknut(1.). You can spin it up near the top, no need to remove. Back off adjuster nut (2.) and run it up until tension is released(you can also hold 2, and spin 3 if you choose). Now, remove the wheel and inpsect everything for a game plan... Remove the caliper (two 14mm bolts, this may vary), then remove the Torque member(what the caliper attaches to, two 19mm bolts). Inspect the slide bolts on the member and make sure they are not stuck. You can work them out with a vise or Vise-grips, but you may need a new one if they are really bad. Remove your hubs. Im running Warn hubs, you may have stock. Unbolt the factory hubs(auto or manual) and set aside. Clean any grease and then remove snap ring... Once the snap ring is off, you can remove the rest of the hub, if applicable. Now for the hub locknut and keeper. There are two screws holding the keeper to the nut, remove them and set aside. They are small, so dont loose them. Remove the keeper with a small magnet if you have one, or a small screwdriver may do the trick... Getting the hub nut off may be as simple as sticking a small screwdriver in the bigger hole, and turing counterclockwise. Turn until it falls into your other hand. Now you can grab the rotor and hub assembly and pull towards you. This will pop the front bearing out, be ready to catch it. Set the assembly aside, and this is what you should have... Clean the old grease off the spindle and be carefull of the threads. Damage them and you will not be happy. If you are not doing axles, you can repack your bearings from here, and reassemlbe. I have pictures for this further down in this writeup. Now, you need to remove the spindle assemlby. You need to remove the tie-rod from the spindle. Remove the cotter pin, and back off the nut almost all of the way off. Grab a hammer and smack the spindle until the tie-rod pops loose. You can use a puller tool if you have one. Once loose, remove nut and seperate from spindle... You will then need to remove the upper and lower balljoints. As a precaution, use that floorjack to support the lower control arm. Each have a nut and cotter pin on them just as the tie-rod. I would do the top first, then the bottom. I got away with taking the bolts out of the upper balljoint(4), but you may have to remove the nut(give is a smack. The bottom is the same, but I removed the nut(27mm) and gave it a smack. From here, tilt the spindle towards you, then drop it down to release the lower balljoint. Now you should have something like this.... You should still have the lower control arm supported. Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower shock mount. Pull the shock towards you and move it just to the side(you can remove the shock completly if you choose). Remove the bolts holding the CV onto your front differential. There are some differences here. Some of the bolts are 6 pointed, some like mine are 12 pointed(hopefully you read this first and checked). With the bolts removed, pull the entire axle toward you, moving around the shock, and its out!

Well, that depends on how much damage was done. My transmission did this exact thing. Before I got it, I found someone filled the trans with the wrong fluid(80-90w GL-5). Noise is why i was going to change the fluid. I refilled it to the higher level with Royal Purple GL-4, and it stayed quieter for a while, but eventually made a ton of noise. I got a replacement transmission(low miles) and overfilled it with Redline GL-4, and all is quiet now. I took some pictures of what I found upon replacing the transmission. Click on my member page link in my signature, scroll down and you will find it.

You might want to read through this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621