LD50

Lots of PB coupled with a pair of vice grips and a mallet made short work of my steering shaft. Simply clamp on the vise grips above the slip joint, loosen the nut and give the vice grips a few good taps with a small mallet or hammer - very easy in my case after i figured out how the thing worked.

89_trailboss has one.. or he used to anyways.

bah.. stupid pathfiner... I'll fix you I Found more frame rust, but I'm not worried for now, Ill get it fixed in a few months. Looks like I may be up for a 17 day shift of work starting monday. :o

I found this site ( http://www.oxygensensorwholesale.com/nissan.html ) in a search and was wondering if anyone has ordered from there before. Recommended? If so, should I get a universal (cheaper) or the OE type?

I have no way to do the fender or frame repair myself. My brother may be able to help me do brakes. I have done a @!*%ty bondo hole repair on the fenders... the hole was huge, I'd like to have it fixed properly though. It can wait if it doesn't get worse - I did seal it good afterwards with rubberized bedliner. Just checked out the o2 sensor location - that is easy. Also, since last frame check I just noticed a crack that I was able to put my finger through so now it's getting worse. I even spray out the frame at the carwash at least once a week. I guess it can't hurt to get a frame repair quote... a scary proposition though.

I'm just wary about if I do put money into it, will something else pop up in 6 months or a year? probably. If I do get rid of it, I won't be buying another pathfinder. On frame, brakes, timing belt and fender repair I'm sure I can easily spend $2000. I don't have great welding skills, or access to a welder... used arc a few times a couple years ago and I wasn't very good.

I don't think I want to waste any more time on such an old vehicle. Don't want to end up with another pathfinder that needs constant repair.

Dropped her off this morning at 8 for an alignment - simple job. I guess they had some issues with rusty framed pathfinders in the past, they mine got a very critical look-over. They managed to find 2 rust holes on the bottom of the frame about 1 foot from the back - I knew about these and they are nothing to worry about in my opinion anyways. The rest of the frame above the rear tires has surface rust, but a mallet and screwdriver wont go through (Like it did on most of the frame of my old pathfinder). They told me to go to a frame shop before they would do anything. So of coarse this gets me thinking... its all starting. I need a full brake job, timing belt is due soon, o2 sensor is gone apparently, told me my lower bj needed replacement, hubs need adjustment (prob just buy manuals anyways). My rear quarters are rusted through on the bottom from some horrible mudflaps. I was expecting to hear something about my CL or steering components, but nothing. Oh and lately my engine is ticking on startup even though it was recalled for that reason and the "engine replaced" according to the PO. All this stuff is adding up to be pretty substantial, would be a waste of money to fix and sell... I'm just thinking about my old pathy and how it went downhill so fast and we pretty much gave it away.

I like the way it sounds. Most people have a similar setup and I think they agree. I also have no cats, and a cone intake which changes the sound a bit. As for the BL, I'd just go with 3". If your going through all the trouble anyways, the FEW things that need to be extended are quite insignificant.

how about cotter pins for the bottom of those all important bolts on the CL?

Runs fine, milage sucks anyway. Thanks Simon!

ok that was easy... Got 3 reds and 3 greens = 33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor. In the how-to, it says 3 green blinks for .5 seconds may have to do with the MAF sensor. I'll start off with cleaning the connectors and my filter. any further input would be great (if needed) edit-- Everything looked fine, filter is good, connector at MAF is fine. Going to gas up in a few, but I think it will probably go again. Am I going to blow something up if I keep driving?

UCA's don't do any lifting, they correct alignment problems after you crank the t-bars. T bars do the lifting.

I used a rag to protect the knob and a big pair of channel locks, even then it took some elbow grease.

I'm happy with my body lift! If you look at stock blazers for example, the frame is as exposed as a pathfinder after a body lift! Doesn't look to bad really, it sure works good though.

Well Shortly after I went offroad and bounced all around, I noticed my check engine light on. Got home, printed off codes and checked it out. I got one long blink, 2 more after a short break that seemed to stay on longer, and then a group of 3, group of 4 and a group of 5. First blink means it starts with 1 i think? Then added up, the rest of the blinks tell me 14... 14 = vehicle speed sensor, right? I wasnt sure if the slightly quicker 2 blinks meant anything, but they are shorter than the first and longer than the last 3 groups. Is a vehicle speed sensor integral to driving abilities or will it just affect speedo, etc? Need to drive into the city the next 2 days EDIT - looking over the ecu diagnostic sticky and looking at my printout from another source - i am highly confused. Am I looking at the check engine light blinks or the red/green ecu blinks? And, I may have cleared the code also.... Maybe I'll go for a drive and see if it gets thrown again

lube the pivots. I remember when the carrier was getting hard to swing on my old pathy, I lubed up the pivot points and cleaned out any gunk. That did the trick and made it alot easier to operate.

Maybe this will help, I posted this not too long ago. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...p;p=entry So, it seems the RS5116 would be a good match without a SL for more flex w/o a swaybar stock suspension without swaybar = I don't think it would be pushed much more, but who knows Gotta throw this in because I didn't in my other thread. Stupid horse!!!

Me as well.

I completely removed my rear sway bar and I really cant tell a difference in the ride, but it flexes alot better!

I'll be checking in the morning, Thanks NZ!

It was clicking with power off, no key.. nothing. I removed the ground and power wires I had used for the tach, and everything is now back to normal. Easy fix, but now I need to get a different power source for the tach I guess, oh well.

Thanks for the explanation, that tells me how I need to go about fixing this. My next question is, can I drive with this problem? I started the pathfinder and I dont hear the clicking, pnly when the pathfinder is off. Is a constantly working relay like that a fire hazard?

The trans shifter is not a problem, you may just need to bend your tcase shifter or notch the floor, thats the best and easiest route.

I am wiring up a tach, and I stopped, reconnected my battery, and all of a sudden theres a continuous clicking noise... I find that its coming from my main relay on the pass side in the engine bay in the small rectangular relay box. What's going on and how do I make it stop????? The only thing I have changed is that I have main power and ground wired to my tach from the ignition source, same place as my deck.