denisb

Very sad. RIP Jared, my thoughts and prayers go out to your familly. D

Nice for the highway, but not recomended for off roading

A tip if u use high temp paint such as BBQ paint. Paint it while the ehaust is still hot or heat it with a torch or heat gun first (don't use the torch or heat gun at the same time as your painting for obvious reasons). This bakes the paint on and will last longer before you have to repaint. My friend would do all his snowmobile/ATV mufflers this way and it worked great.

Your shifter will get warm a little, but if you feel a hot air comming up through your boot is most likely ripped. Pretty easy to check on the older models as there sre only two snappers holding the top boot to the floor on the drivers side.

Looks like people have answered to your wiring questions already. As for your water/sand. I'm betting that the bottom of your rear quarter panel is starting to rust at the seem and that is the source of your leak.

That's/ alright/ ....... a/ little/ anoying/.....but/ alright/ :tonguefinger:

Wow.....remind me not to go trailing with 88....he means buisness! I say trail damage....unless the guy runs you in purposely or does something really stupid, like try climbing a hill that's iced up after someone says hey "don't climb that hill because you're not going to make it and then you're going to slide back down and around the corner and hit that pathfinder...." is to be expected and should be your own responsibility. It sucks to get run into and if I ran into someone I would offer to help with the fixing of the rig, but trailing has a lot of unforseen and I think even insurance companies might have issues with paying for trail damage.

So let me get this straight.......these guys are doing free promo/advertising for Ford products by showing of show car made out of regular stock vehicles and Ford wants to spend money on lawyers to make sure it doesn't happen.....Someone in Ford marketing needs to get their but kicked!

Don't look at it as a bad day for Pathys....look at it as the older pathys just increased in value.

Well at least they knew which model to pick..... That is awesome, can't wait ot see!

The original control arm bushings were made of rubber, so there was a little bit of movement. But there should be minimal movement. If you see anything over 1/2" of movement back to front you would be safe to say they are toast. My guess by the way you describe your sway, you will see closer to 1 or 1 & 1/2" travel. If you can see inside the mount, you might even see the rubber seperated from the metal and if they are bad enough, you will be able to move them up and down by hand.

Get someone to look underneath at the lower control arm bushings (were they mount to the frame) as you put presure on them (brakes on and drive, reverse and a little gas) and I'm willing to bet my lunch money you'll see your bushings are gone.

Suddenly or over time? I know the control arm bushing will give you sway, but 8" side to side seems excessive.

Must've gotten pretty sloppy handling when those broke. Considering these aren't really made for such use.

I agree that grinding and loss of gear in an Auto trany is not a good sign. Sometimes you can buy a little time on a tranny if it's just a gear loss by fluid change and filter clean, but The noises are never a good sign. Sorry, but looks like a swap weather new, rebuilt or used. Remeber to replace your favtory tranny cooler when you do the repair if you still have the factory cooler on. This is probably the #1 care you can take on your auto tranny on these rig.

My suggestion if you're going in 4 lo and don't want to hear grinding is this. 1. Make sure tranny is in neutral. 2. Make sure you are at a dead stop. 3. Do not hesitate as you're going thru Neutral on the T-case (make sure it's one fluent motion) If all these steps are followed and all is working well, there shouldn't be much if any grinding (possibly a small grunt as the gears actually sinc up) Deffinately you want to know if your 4 lo is working before you get in trouble tho.

It's possible he has a seized caliper. You should be able to pretty well push the pistons back without removing the bleeders. I've never had to take the bleeders off to push the pistons back (unless he clamped off the brake line coming in). I've had to use a clamp before tho. If they go in really tight he might have to remove the piston out completely and clean the piston (not recomended if you've never done it before tho). This would eliminate premature pad wear due to seized or semi-seized pistons.

Nope. DLR are only headlights.

Another option is the bone Yard...they usually give 30 day warranty.

Since you have replaced with a plastic tank and your problem started shortly after I'd look at grounding. Remember that your previous tank was metal and acted as a ground, so if you had a bad ground it could be more obvious now with a plastic tank. Is your temp gauge fine? If not it could be your regulator going flakey.

I drove mine for 6 months without the sway bar and put it back on just because I was using it to and from work which is mostly highway. It was a little noticible, but not undrivable by any means. When one of my sway bar link mounts gave way I took it as a sign to remove the sway bar again and never put it back on before I sold the rig. Gave me way more flex too!

Wow! I've driven 4x4s for 10-15 years and have never been as confused as I am now about shifting into 4x4. I think If I was to go outside now I'd probably not be able to shif my rig in 4x4 even if I usually shift it in 4x4 every other day......Thank you guys for confusing the crap out of me!

If this is a 90-94 model, the DRL module is notorious for going bad. If you're haddy with a soldering gun, you can take it part and will probably find that the thru board relay pins have a cold solder joint on them. It's located behind the battery on the passengers side. I fixed mine two years ago and it's still going strong.

First off 4 Lo should only be used when you need extreme 4x4 or low gearingis needed. 4hi is for slick roads (mud or snow) You should never use 4x4, hi or low, on dry pavement. When you say you tried to get out of 4x4 and couldn't go past Neutral. Was your tranny also in netral? There should be no reason why your transfer case does not go from 4hi to 4lo when the vehicle is stopped with brakes on and transmition in Neutral...Even if your hubs would be royally hooped.

Ah but if you do want to warm up the tranny and differential try this. Put your transfer case in neutral with the handbrake on and put your tranny in drive or 1st gear. This will simulate driving down the road because your tranny is actually turning. Don't forget to pull your tranny in neutral and give it a few seconds before pulling your transfer case back in gear though as you might not like the sounds you hear.....so I heard