navygz19

or this Why oh why would you?? It's not even worth thinking about!

It's a matter of opinion. There are people who swear by the grace of God that synth. is the way to go because they have a million miles on their cars. Then there's other who have just as many miles and have never steered away from 5W-30 and have the same results. It's a choice. (BTW I'm poor so I use the cheap stuff )

True The dumbest thing ever IMO is putting 23" spinnerz on a Pathy (4x4 or not!) fo shizzle

Ok Nissan covered it 100% (which they should have anyways) and now I'm out a Pathy. I'm going to pick up my loaner on monday (last time it was an '04 X SE) and hopefull I won't be w/o it for too long. So sad...I wanted to hit some trails this weekend, necause I didn't have to work

Why not get a police-speck light bar, complete with a full set of LED's visible for 1.5 miles. THAT'LL set you apart Oh yeah, don't forget a Dixie horn too

Nor do I...I have always replaced my headlights w/ Sylvania Silverstar's...I have them in my Pathy and the wife's Hyundai and have always used them. They're crisp and bright, NOT that tacky blue color and won't break the bank either (usuall $40.00 for the pair) Check them out, they are always available at Advance Auto Parts, etc.

Indeed it would Do you think some dash peices actually need to be removed to get the trim up from under them?

My mom's 97 QX4 had the same stuff/did the same thing. Not too sure what you can do about removing i, as I'm sure it's going to leave behind some nasty sticky glue. You'll definately need to paint or at least prime the dash after removing it (stick w/ black primer). And yes, it WAS a factory option (albeit a cheap one!) I'm guessing just rip it off? (seeing as it's trash anyway) and give it a good rub down (LOL) with some Goo Gone? Any other suggestions?

I think I'll still stick w/ LP water and extendable scrub brush for hard to reach areas (I have a tendancy to want to spray EVERYTHING with one of those hoses )

No, not saying simply cleaning it would have definately been the answer to your problems, but it would have been MY first angle of approach That's ok tho...hopefully they will give you back your old one if they still have it. Get yourself a multimeter and test it, OR clean it, re-install it yourself and start your truck...it won't do anything if it's really bad...might throw a code and cause the SES light to come on but it will clear. Interesting how they didn't offer it back to you...I ALWAYS take back original parts, even if all I do is throw them away. Keep us updated!

Interesting...I've always been told not to use HP water, but oh well, learn something new everday I suppose

Ok. Reason I ask is because sometimes when you clean a K&N and don't wait for it to dry, the oil will collect on that little metal filament, causing the symptoms you describe. Did they test your original MAF before replacing it? A multimeter would have told them if it were really fried or not...did they give it back to you after replacing it?

My sentiments exactly. It's a dirty, dirty game. Def. sounds like she trying to you

$300 is insanity. I found one for my old 2k2 Sentra SE-R at a junk yard for $100. If I may ask, how did your MAF start acting up? Do you have a CAI? K&N drop-in? Typically MAF's won't bust, unless they're abused (hence, mine went on my SE-R because the CAI's mounting bolt snapped causing it to shake itself to death!) As far as adjusting anything...no, nothing needs to be adjusted. MAF's plug in and your done. The actual sensor in it may be dirty however if it was a ****** rebuild. It's hard to see in here, but in the middle of here there is a thin piece of metal that hangs down in the middle of the tube and resembles a filament from a lightbulb. If that's dirty, it'll act up on you. Then again, you may just be paranoid about it because your pissed about the $300 (this is an extra MAF from my Sentra) hope that adds some light to your situation.

(hides under a chair and chuckles a bit) Understood what your saying, however, you must rinse these. If I remember correctly after I used Purple Power last, it left behind a stain where it wasn't rinsed. Use low pressure water as well...do NOT go to one of those car washes and use the HP hose to rinse your engine bay.

That's cause it's a wimpy V8...The Pathy outpowers it w/ 2 less cylinders (if my memory serves me correctly)

Radio Data System. It display's the song title/artist on the screen as you listen to the radio. I don't think your '01 has it (if it did, you would know it did!) Only it can't be defeated and sometimes I wish it could be...

To each his/her own I suppose...

I was wondering if anyone here has had any experience with the AC 3/16" skidplate. I'm in the process of buying one and haven't heard about anyone with it. I think I'd rather Marcel's, but the shipping costs are killing me (FAR more than AC) Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Your best bet is to have one custom made...get a pair of high-flow exhausts and have a shop mandrel bend some tobing...voila! Anyhow, UPDATE. To other R50 owner's...I just got a call back from Carmax, where my Pathy is sitting getting the exhaust leak looked at. Well, turns out there's a hole in the Catalytic Converter :confused: Never heard of other Pathy's having this issue before. My question is, what's the Emissions Warranty Nissan has? Is it 8-year 80K? Unlimited? I only ask because I want to know WHO is going to be warranting this repair...Carmax or Nissan. As it stands now, they are sending the trunk nextdoor to an actual Nissan shop for parts/repairs there. Now I just need to demand a loaner. Any help on the emissions warranty would be appreciated!

Ah HA! <---stands corrected

VG33 is a 16 gal. tank, I think whereas the VQ's have a 20 (.2 I think?) Believe me, the only time you notice those extra 4 gallons are at the pump

Thank you dagwoodzz. It's a good thing you did so well in math classes, because I sure didn't I always try to fill up at 1/4 tank at LEAST, because I do worry about condensation especially on particularly warm days and cool nights (like we had the last few days...85 degrees in mid march!) Impurities I'm not sure about, though I agree that there's no difference in price between filling every 100 miles vs. emptying a tank (unless fuel prices jump 16 cents on average in 1 day, like they just did here!)

Pezzy...I did try a search. Got 10 pages of hits on non-related posts. But I bet that this HAS been addressed before...any help on narrowing results? K9...I always do do the math...and according to the gauge, when it's at the last line (E) on level ground, to me that should say it's time to fill up...but there have been times where I would only put in 17 gallons to fill it...out of a 20 gallon tank. I know that gas gauges are only a good estimate of approximate fuel, but that seems a little too off.

*<---wishes he had more $$ for those things*