Tungsten

Fixed it! I soaked the latch in Simple Green to get all the oily crud out and sprayed the assembly with white lithium grease and greased all the moving parts with chain oil. Just put the thing back in, aimed it using the factory traces, and it works like factory new.

Thorleys and a 2.5" midpipe here, all in 304 stainless steel. I home made my entire exhaust system except for the headers. It's still a work in progress but will be finished soon.

Vents only force air into the engine bay when they are at the highest pressure area, which would be toward the end of the hood. You should definately go with the scoops.

lol you don't want to know what i came up with...

Well the hood pins may stop the hood from shaking for one and they are a much cheaper option. I'm not a big fan of them but they work if I can't get a working latch. I don't even care about drilling the hood as it has so many damn bumps and dents in it already from all the abuse it got.

He was talking with Kyle for too long...

The latch that holds the hood down on my truck stopped responding to the cable. After spending about an hour thinking of creative ways to get the latch to open for the last time, the latch gave in and I was able to pop the hood open. After that I just unbolted the latch, took out the cable, and removed the latch assembly permanently. What I took out is rusted to crap and yes it was greased before anyone asks. I'm not even sure as to what failed but it doesn't work anymore. The cable does work though, it is not snapped anywhere. Now I have a few options: 1. Forget the latch and install hood pins - this is cool but at the same time an invitation for trouble 2. Go to a scrap yard and get another latch - economical but not reliable and may fail again the same way 3. Go to the dealer and buy a new latch - there is no guarantee of the dealer having one and they may charge a small fortune 4. Get an NPORA member to send me a decent working one - I hope I can trust NPORA people to not send me a ****** one Decisions... Opinions?

i would definitely try that method first if i had to pull the motor with the trans out

i wonder how bad the r52 will be

maybe you can just use the longer runners all the time since you are looking for more low end power

I SEE HEADLIGHT WASHERS!!!

You won't get too far with that mod. Really, the gain is minimal, and not even worth the effort. Try a cat back exhaust first.

HERPADERP

A new hood or a body lift.

1. I am pretty sure that clock is straight up mechanical with only a backlight (but I could be wrong). 2. STAY AWAY FROM THOSE POWER VALVES OF DOOM!!!!1111 THEY TEND TO FALL APART AND CHEW UP ENGINES

Stop using ****** gaskets. FYI: I was able to suspend the entire midpipe and a catalytic converter just on those two bolts! Generally yes, the more hangers the better BUT if you have less of them that's less stuff (and that @!*% tends to rust impossibly well) to remove when you have to do maintenance.

You're not supposed to cross the solid lines without yielding. Attempt failed! The bitch was right! What a bitch!!!

You don't need those.

the R51 blows, i hate everything about it

All I want to say is that D-ring stuff is bull@!*%. The seat belts become slow because the retracting mechanism becomes lazy.

Nothing is more funny than reading a "I BOUGHT THIS TRUCK NOW I WANT TO MOD IT" thread. How about checking out all the parts first and seeing if it needs any repairs? Can you be that sure that everything is perfect on a 10 year old truck with a VQ? When was the last time that thing had a tune-up? If all is well then you can proceed to making it more fun.

Mid-pipe done!

I'm trying to make this sort of a production pipe but in a way where anyone can put one together with some simple tools and a welder. I'll make a shopping list soon when this is all done.