Tungsten

First of all, thanks for the input! Secondly, I'm not sure how the power steering pump works inside, particularly a Nissan pump, so I don't know yet. If it's just some impeller shaft then it's fine but if there are any little valve body tunnels, like in a transmission, then I would have to check it out. I really don't want to spend money on a new pump because I already have to get hoses and a box but at the same time if I have no choice then I'm going to buy a new one anyway. The other problem is that nobody carries pumps like this any more, not even RockAuto. Their inventory is some questionable Reman stuff from suppliers like Lares or ATSCO, which is what AutoZone carries.

Yeah I don't know... I guess if it's still pumping then it's good. They should be self protecting.

Where did you get Baer rotors?!

I would rather get a stupid metal bar for $40 at the junkyard than paying $200 for one at the dealer.

I did some more research today and apparently my truck will take a 1995 steering box without issues, I will only need to change the lines going to the power steering pump. What happened was first Nissan changed the pump design in 1988 then the Pitman arm taper in 1991, which uses a bigger 41mm nut, and then they changed the design of the box itself with a more powerful one in 1993, which has newer fittings. 1991-1992 boxes use the same large taper that the newer models use but the same design of the box as the older style models. Therefore, it is the same old box but with a bigger output shaft. I might as well just convert to a newer style box, which has slightly different fittings and is more powerful, than try to hunt down an obsolete 1991-1992 box. All I will need to do is just buy new lines and everything else should swap right over, including the Pitman arm! Now I hope the pump is still in good condition. Is there any way to check for pump damage? The less things I have to buy the better. My fear is just that the pump that I have now can ruin the new box that I will put in later with new lines. Any way to prevent this from happening or am I stuck with buying another pump too? EDIT: As you can see, it is possible to swap a 93-95 box in place of a 91-92 box by just changing the lines. You can also swap the newest 93-95 box with the 87-90 by changing the Pitman arm, the lines, and sometimes the pump.

It can pass much more power than any automatic on the market can and that's for sure. There is no stupid torque converter to explode or clutches to burn. Then the transmission has a near infinite amount of gear ratios and can easily travel to the ratio that provides the minimum amount of slippage while providing the most amount of power. With the combination of the right metals, this transmission can be extremely low maintenance and highly wear resistant.

EBC cast iron rotors will work great with ceramic pads because they are really good at containing heat. I use Brembo rotors myself and tried EBC on another vehicle and have to say that there is no difference. I don't know if Brembo rotors are also cast iron or not but EBCs seem to surface rust just a whee bit quicker than the Brembos. When you clean the grease off the rotors with Brakleen, only clean the contact area of the pad. Leave the anti-rust grease on the rest of the rotor, it helps.

i am loving that engineering you actually know how to lift the right way as opposed to the cheap way

THREAD FAILED my turn now 1. The body lift will not affect the handling but it will affect your center of gravity. The suspension lift will affect the handling because you change the geometry of the suspension. However, 1 inch should not be a big deal. You can probably do a 1 inch lift just by cranking the torsion bars. 2. Extractors aka headers will not improve fuel economy but they will increase high rpm performance. If you get more fuel economy with them, you are more than likely running the engine way too lean, which you will feel by the sluggishness and loss of low end power. 3. If you are using extractors then having a higher flow carburetor is recommended. More fuel taken in + more air ingested due to more exhaust leaving = more bang and more go! 4. A snorkel will improve engine breathing because it places the filter away from the hot engine. Make sure the piping is big enough to avoid any air restriction. It might improve power but won't do anything for fuel economy because colder air is denser so it requires more fuel for combustion. 5. It depends on how heavy the bar is. You can get away with up to 90 lbs of extra weight up front and the same in the back without feeling any difference.

It depends on the rotors you want to use.

It all depends on which one is damaged.

Yes that's it but the shipping is not going to be fun. RockAuto has some ATSCO boxes on there right now so maybe I can go with that? I would rather already have a steering box on hand rather than having to go and ship it to Red Head and waiting on getting it back. Unless anyone that lives in the area is willing to offer me favors.

:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: I went to a bunch of yards and none of them had anything older in the Nissan truck department than 1995. The steering box for the 1991 year is different. I would have to convert everything over to 1995 parts to just use the box. If you can find me a 1991 box, ship it to me. I don't know when they changed but the RockAuto catalog lists them as 1991 to 1992.

OK I just found the best thing to do ever: Get these wiper blades: http://www.amazon.com/95048-Super-Silicone-Black-Wiper/dp/B0002Z9QXU/ref=dp_cp_ob_auto_title_0 Which accept these refills: http://www.amazon.com/94048-Silicone-Wiper-Blade-Refill/dp/B0002Z9R4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I87IUPAW2U5U1&colid=1FCR6PH73X6W6 Reason being is I just tried those refills with my OEM Nissan blades and I must say they are pretty damn impressive. It would be easier to swap the refills on actual PIAA blades though. It's just a one time payment of $34 for the blades and then $12 every time you need a new pair of blades because you just change the rubbers. Never pay for overpriced blades again! Now before anyone says: "BUT I CAN BUY 2 BLADES FOR $9 AT WALMART/COSTCO" No, this is not some cheap ass garbage. These are silicone performance blades. The whole point is paying $12 for high quality blades every time by just getting the refills. They also last a long time so I think it's the best bang for the buck yet. Plus if you have accidental damage from snow or ice, you can just replace the refills again.

Those 4 bolts look like they're going to need impact gun love. I need to check the FSM to see what torque they need when installing the box back. Also, how do you remove the steering shaft out of the box?

Anything is possible if you have a welder and some tools. There is no OEM solution for this as there is a special one side reinforcement bracket for the passenger side. You can get a Nissan Terrano carrier which has the wheel slightly offset toward the passenger and that's about it.

That's most likely what happened. I'm pretty sure that box is gunked up. How hard is it to remove and rebuild?

I don't know what made the old fluid so funky but right now it seems like a nice ATF color after I replaced some of it. The steering is slightly better too but only if I don't turn the wheel too much. The more I turn it, the harder it gets to turn. Turning the wheel only a little bit in each direction is easy but turning it all the way to the stop gets really difficult as it is approaching the stop. It's like logarithmic steering. I don't know if that says anything...

Now that's a good option! I like how they run it.

Those must have been some really cheap decks then. Panasonic is also good if you want value.

Put it in a bottle and take it to collections or a nearest auto repair shop.

I go by liters. The tanks are indeed 80 liters.

Just a note here: The tanks are 21 USA gallons but 17 IMPERIAL gallons. It all depends on how you measure the size.