Tungsten

I don't know how many have done this before in the past but someone on facebook suggested swapping to a Hardbody 2WD setup. http://www.courtesyparts.com/hardbody-truck-parts-d21u-1995-1997/genuine-nissan-parts/steering/485-steering-linkage/-c-5388_5389_5499_5502.html

Sure, you can use sealed beam sized headlights with H4s as long as they're not crappy plastic. I think that's what silverton was getting at. That's not out of the question but it purely depends on your tastes and preferences. Personally, I don't like the look of a Hardbody grille with the buckets and sealed beams. The "sad eye" headlamps are my favorite design. What I rather do is add more auxiliary lights to increase the visibility at night. Running fog lights at night creates a big improvement too because they cast light where the headlights do not.

Infiniti M30 VG30E specs: 162 hp (121 kW) and 180 lb·ft (244 N·m) torque Nissan WD21 VG30E specs: 153 hp (114 kW) and 180 lb·ft (244 N·m) torque Assuming the ECU is the only real difference, you can gain about 9 HP with the ECU swap on a stock truck. That's probably at higher RPM too and it won't be noticeable. I'm not saying you can't tune it later on though. It's a great swap if it accommodates other mods like intake and exhaust. Then it just might make a difference over the stock ECU if you have the resources to program it.

What in the world is a dash cap?

Of course it sucks compared to a higher wattage bulb but it's not worth to replace the OEM housing with some cheap plastic e-bay junk just to use a better bulb.

No, it is the wiring. It doesn't have enough meat to transfer the entire 45 watts into the bulb. Remember 45 watts at 13+v will also be a hell of a lot brighter than 45 watts at 12v but it will need fatter wiring to transfer all that power. Then you need to aim the headlights properly.

How much play? Up to an inch is fine.

No, the fenders are not the same. No idea if you can exchange them for newer style body fenders but it's worth a shot.

DO NOT touch the sensor wire with anything. Use MAF sensor cleaner only.

It will either strip the thread or break in half. Get another cluster just so that you can stay on top of oil changes. Mine just went way out of sync. Proof the gears will break in half over time.

What happens is the odometer gear breaks leaving the odometer non-functional. I saw this happen before on quite a few models and it even happened to my WD21.

No, the factory tie rods are weak. I broke them before and my truck failed inspection.

No, not at all. Get some KC, IPF, PIAA, WARN, etc lights and wire those up instead.

lol DONKfinder

RockAuto.com Get a Hitachi sensor. It's a Nissan part with the name sanded off.

Buying ANYTHING from Autozone is more ghetto than pulling a OEM part out of the yard. You can use aftermarket relays as long as they are not some low grade junk. There is nothing like having no head lights in thick fog at night. BTW I am not using Nissan relays for my E-fan swap.

Looks good but I think the tubes are too far apart from each other. Are you accommodating a body lift?

i said the grass roots was an economical alternative but it only removes one issue to add another i'm sure it works fine but you will have to do something about the idler arm if you go that route the dual ball joint setup on the center link is done so that the cheesy idler arm doesn't snap off and so that the tie rods don't ever bind it's a really crappy system but it works

They are exactly the same but that first one is a slimmer muffler so I'm guessing it has less packing and is therefore louder. I have no idea what the stock diameter pipe on your truck is. If you have 2" down pipes then definitely go with that first or second one depending on how much space you have and/or how loud you want it to be.

Yes, most cameras will compensate for that. Use manual mode only when taking comparison shots of lights. From what I can tell, there was a minor improvement in relaying the headlights. The best part is not that you will get slightly brighter lights but that your switch will last much longer and not burn out.

It's common sense... If they are rusty don't reuse them. If they are fine you can re-use them again. Maybe Nissan used conical nuts or bolts with thread locker?

Apply Dremel with a cut off wheel across the retainer of the shock to cut it open. Unbend the shock retainer or break it off. Once the shock is off the bushing, cut the bushing in half along with the bolt to remove the offending bolt.

Once you go SS, things get expensive really fast. Definitely worth it if you have rust problems.

I'm surprised that it isn't.

Personally, I don't like cheap and cheesy aftermarket relays. I would get some real Nissan relays and build one.