Tungsten

the collector should be 2.25" for those headers

Those are OEM for sure. The replacements I was talking about are the cheap $50 lines you can find at typical parts stores.

They are not cheap but the quality is definitely there. The replacements are junk compared to what you get from Nissan.

Might be a modified alternator then.

You should replace those lower control arm bushings in the process too. You will be glad you did!

Yes, they mostly care about the exterior. However, if they see any custom exhaust work such as side pipes you are automatically disqualified. Just something you want to watch for.

They are 90A, not 120A. I don't think that one is factory or the listing is full of crap.

I think shimming the UCAs should be able to fix this stuff properly. I really don't want to go and rebuild that tension rod cup. Mine failed on the passenger side but that side seems to be good after the shop rebuilt the cup. The driver's side is the one that's out of caster/camber.

I ran into this issue recently myself. Yes, the high pressure and low pressure lines are clamped to each other. Nissan does not sell the hard line piece for the return line. You will have to re-use the hard line piece on the return section and you can only replace the soft hoses on it. You can buy them both clamped together at a Nissan dealership or a more economical alternative would be to replace the high pressure line only. If your return hard line leaks from rust your only other choice is to check a local scrap yard. I have a spare return hard line piece but it is for a 1995 Pathfinder although I am pretty sure it will fit. http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/steering/497-power-steering-piping/-c-5572_5573_5683_5692.html Best of luck!

Modified vehicles cannot be registered as Historic under New Jersey law. They require you to submit two pictures so that they can make sure you are on all original equipment with original body work. I think you can get it to factory first, register it, then start the modification. I don't know about the renewal process though. It is still possible to qualify for Street Rod status but you need membership somewhere or something like that.

It all depends on the usage scenario I guess. MAF responds better to small modifications without needing a tune again while MAP seems to be more reliable and easier to deal with as long as nothing is changed.

It's not a better system but a cheaper system to implement because the ECU relies on air/fuel look up instead of a direct reading from the sensor. It is a much easier system to tune unless you are dealing with a stock ECU that uses MAP technology. The MAF style system is superior to a MAP based system because the drive-ability with a MAF is much smoother and you get a better torque curve however you can hurt the top end power because of the obvious flow restriction that MAF sensors can have.

Yes. The front differential is really sketchy to install and remove because it interferes with the engine oil pan. Running the truck with 2WD only will have plenty of benefits. The CV shafts are going to suck with a powerful V8 engine anyway. You can always do a solid axle swap later on and get 4x4 back if you wanted to.

What else are you going to buy? A pile of rust? Or a plastic non-microwavable container?

With V8 power and torque you are better off just keeping it on the road. In snow you will do fine with 2WD as long as you have the right tires and a limited slip differential.

I'm going to see how much the dealer wants to do the alignment first. If it's over $130, I'm going to try it myself. Thanks!

Yes, you want the extra meat left in there for tapping.

Yeah they don't know how to use the damn machine properly. They set the toe pretty good but that's about it which makes sense considering they only mostly adjust McPherson crap anyway. The only alignment place around here that can actually get this right is like $200. Looks like I will have to align myself. Can you give me more details on how you measure these things?

well then oh well screw that apparently they can twist into pretzels with enough stress so they are better kept to smaller cars

After one of my tension rod bushings failed and was repaired, the torsion bars were slightly cranked to compensate for sagging, and me changing out the entire steering linkage, my caster alignment seems to be just a bit off. After endlessly trying to get my shop to get the A-arm shims right, they just can't get it right. They say that it's not possible to get the correct shims to align the truck properly but I think they are full of you know what. I am probably going to try some other alignment place next. Anyway I came across this site for a rare car that was never in production and came across an interesting upper A-arm design. Instead of shimming the upper A-arm, they actually put adjusters on the rods that connect the ball joint to the frame. I thought this could be a very beneficial idea for anyone willing to make these for the Nissan trucks. Source: http://www.factoryfi...echassiscontent

You can try swapping the Pitman arm from your donor truck. If it fits both ends, it works.

Your mechanic can easily do this if you show him how everything should look like when it is done. All you need to do with that 93 box is to just find an earlier 90-92 pitman arm that fits the newer box. The reason being is the 2nd gen steering box that came from late 90 to 92 had a smaller joint taper but the same output shaft as the 93+ box. The reason why the newer 93+ box pitman arm does not work is the joint taper is 2mm or so too big. You can still connect everything but your center link will be crooked and you run into a risk of destroying the joint taper.

Those should fit. Not many people in the R51 group yet. Replies may be slow around here...

You should relocate the charcoal can into the spare tire section. Don't get rid of it, your truck will smell like gas.

You can just hack the fan shroud or run an E-fan. There is no need to drop down the radiator with a body lift.