Tungsten

uhh i know chevy trucks do that and the cause for that are broken timing gears

I know the Nissan V6 engines sound weird but I was just wondering if the sound I am experiencing is normal. I had this sound since I got this truck and one friend of mine who owns a 2dr Explorer said it may be a normal sound for this engine. Anyway, it sounds like a bunch of sparks going off and probably comes from the valves. The sound is continuous and not random. It only occurs under load and not at idle. By load I mean over 2000 rpm in Drive in the higher gears when I press the gas down a bit. However, if the load is at its peak then the spark sound also gets some occasional click to it. So I just wanted to know if this is a normal thing for these trucks. I tried getting rid of it by replacing the studs with 300zx turbo studs, replacing the manifold with headers, using 5000 mile oil, etc. However its still there and neither of these things helped so far. The headers made the sound slightly louder too. If you want me to post a video, I can do that.

i like to keep things seperate

omg just use headers i can smoke the tires at 2500 rpm with them

Yea that is the same clamp I have... The goo just spreads all around when you tighten it up and there is no curing time specified. Again, the clamp does work nicely but when the engine gets hot it rattles. I think making it a little tighter when the engine is hot will do the trick. I would like to keep the 2 piece pipe as a 2 piece because it just makes everything easier. Welding it is expensive and it would look like @!*%.

window amplifier? sure just hit the window up button on the drivers side and passenger side at the same time

I use a heavy duty 180 F one, it works nicely. However, the stock temp is 175 F.

I thought the seat heating was automatic but I really don't see any wiring. Oh well... BONUS FUSE!!!

If you want a frame, its WD21 or the new Pathfinder from 2004 and on.

Ok so I went out to RadioShack and got those 60ma 12v micro lamps. I decided to ditch the LED idea because its a mess to get the resistors to fit. The lamps I got are rated for 10,000 hours so I think thats plenty of time. I figure 2 hours a day use will make them last around 14 years. So far I replaced (carefully) the bulbs inside these: Cruise Control Timer (Defroster) Hazard Flash E-AT/Power Also I took the ones on the bottom apart and noticed some did not even have bulbs in them. That was very surprising... For example, I took the wiper one apart and did not find a bulb (probably means its not meant to be backlit). The E-AT switch has a bulb inside but that is only for indicating that its on. After I finish with all of them, Ill probably post a how to video for one of these so you guys can replace them if you need to. Also, can someone with a working dashboard tell me which switches are or are not meant to be backlit?

update well i took it to a shop today and i thought maybe its the studs and the bolts at the flanges expanding too i got them to check the torque on those when they were hot and they said any more and the gaskets will crush so no leaks or squeaks there they torqued down the clamp a little bit and its better now but it still vibrates when reversing or stopping i guess i should put a little more torque on the clamp even though its at 50 something ft/lbs already oh yea and this only happens when the engine has reached operating temperature

slow windows is better than no windows lol

No, I have not and at this point I don't even care about how many miles it is. The odometer reads something like 211,111 miles right now and the numbers are all whacko and not even lined up. I don't even look at it because I don't care. I do pull the dipsticks though to check the oil and trans fluid. BTW, I know the 94 engine that was put in it at 125,000 had something like 250,000 miles on it.

the clamp already has silicone in it when you torque it down, the silicone spreads

idk about you guys but i went to the dealer for my new starter it was expensive, about $240 after the core charge refund, but it was worth it OEM Nissan starters will last you a while if not forever i would hate to be changing it every year or be worrying about it being bad paying a little extra just gave me a peace of mind and no amount of money can replace that

rocks or other road debris smash into the filters if they are too low hoses can leak at the fittings or become punctured and leak there the problem with this truck is the engine bay space is very limited had it been a bigger vehicle, this kit should not be a problem to install you can move brackets around but that's not recommended as they are placed in optimal spots if you are concerned about the oil filter not clearing the headers, that is false to prevent oil leaking on the starter, slide a piece of cardboard on the starter and then remove the filter i drive fast on the highways, about 70-90 mph so any particle flying about wouldn't be very nice i did however install the transmission oil cooler

right, torsion bars are in the way i really like that clamp but when the exhaust gets hot it vibrates on the joint i think thats due to the metal stretching when hot so i gotta tighten that up some more

i spoke with a professional mechanic and he said he already had to send 3 cars to the junkyard because of that thing

tex sent me one international shipping isn't cheap thats why they are $50-60

you have the long tubes the problem with the short tubes is the flanges don't clear out so you need to pull the crossover pipe apart

2" it is i just put it on sometimes it still makes a racket though i guess needs some adjustment or whatever

thats good but still seems a bit vulnerable to me i don't like anything hanging by the wheels, exhaust, or transmission

From my personal experience, any leak in the manifold or anywhere in the exhaust before the o2 sensor will cause your mpg to drop like a stone. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor is good. Those like to fail but for some reason mine is fine.

i can't find a place for it, my preference is to change the filter with something like a sheet of cardboard protecting the starter because i can get it in even with the headers in place