Tungsten

i bet you aren't modified because mine used to do really well with 87 too now its rough with 87 but smooth with 89 i think Precise1 has a similar setup to mine and gets the same MPGs but i don't know with what octane if i drive slow, i can get as much as 25 mpg

i paid $50 for my exhaust pipe and $400 for headers lol

www.magnaflow.com nuff said

i just filled up on 89 again i got an average of 16.5 mpg from daily driving

yea this truck is really protected against someone stealing your gas

I don't know if there will be any advantage of running Premium here. I don't think the compression is high enough to give you more power on premium in this engine.

that is what i think happened to grim air ratchet will snap those little things right off i was able to hand tighten it with a nut driver and it sealed perfectly

perhaps you can find a vg30e at the junkyard with the round tooth sprockets and swap em i really hate those square ones, they suck so much my 91 pathy runs the round tooth sprockets and belt the timing belt goes a long way on those

thats odd, it should seal perfect btw if you have a nut driver, use it

btw for me the ECU was throwing a code because the exhaust rattled and triggered a knock code as of now, no issues with using headers and the truck feels peppier when the studs aren't snapped it will even feel quick with the manifolds if they are in good shape so there is not much need for headers the performance difference is about 7 hp and 10 ft-lbs of torque with a full custom exhaust but it won't be as quiet anymore

make sure you ONLY get a dealer O-ring replaced mine, no problems now and no sealer required

yes that is correct the timing is controlled by some loop back and has to do with the CPS i guess ill keep using 89 and ignore that problem maybe a mix of 87 and 89 will help such is the case of the VG30E with intake, headers, and a sport exhaust how about an ECU upgrade?

when i did my headers i had the following issues 1. the o2 sensor went bad 2. the midpipe was hitting against the the transmission crossmember 3. the old catalytic converter crapped out 4. the tailpipe was mashing the gas tank try resetting your ECU by unplugging the battery also that tin can sound could possibly be coming from the intake, i have the same issue

ok more weirdness I noticed that on 87, the truck runs ok when its stone cold but as it warms up performance deteriorates. However on 89, the truck runs like @!*% when its cold, if I give it a little gas the rpms go up a bit and then drop right away as if the engine wasn't getting enough fuel but after warming up it runs fine. I think the ECCS is doing something here. Maybe auto timing advance and retard? Should I do something about the warm-up issue or just leave it?

yep too long

the main restriction in this engine is the size of the valves, they are very small

did you get the timing correct?

bypass the fuel filter or get a new one

yea i wish now i need that vent insert

two words they suck

ok thanks, so two things 1. I do like the low idle, it has no negative effect on anything. 2. I don't mind paying for 89 as it has detergents in it to help clean up the engine along the way. So I will keep doing what I'm doing then.

This has probably been mentioned somewhere before but here it goes... If I run 87 octane gas, my truck doesn't detonate (have pre-ignition) or anything like that. However if I use 89 octane gas, the truck drives much nicer; the acceleration feels smoother and the idle is slightly lower. There is absolutely no difference in MPG between the two for me. Currently, I run the engine timing at 15 deg BTDC. I think this is the OEM specification for the VG30E. Also, I have a custom exhaust with short-tube headers if that makes any difference. I know for the VG33E the recommended octane is 89. I did try premium gas and as expected the engine had lag. Should I keep running 89 then or is 87 the better choice? Should I leave the timing where it is? I am aware of carbon deposits increasing compression but my engine is relatively clean on the inside.

No you don't have to drop the tank. Peel back the carpet in the back and there is your access hole. Check the hoses first and if they are good then it is probably the gasket that the fuel sender is sitting on. The most you will spend on it is $10 at the dealer.

its amazing what an oil change can do i had the same problem and my oil light kept going on then i changed the oil with some mobil 1 synthetic and now its like the problem wasn't even there

actually thats it no more problems, the valves don't even tick anymore amazing...