ILoveMyPatty

I'm in for a set of chrome Thorleys. As long as I can figure out a way to get them to BC, Canada.

I have no experience with the speakers in the rear ceiling, but the fronts are easy. Just pull off the plastic, and fit some 6.5's in there. I was running some 6.5" Alpine Type S's for a while, then switched to JBL 5.25" components, and made fibreglass pods for the tweeters in the a-pillar. If you want it to sound good, you're going to have to do some minor trimming in the rear ceilings it sounds like. Also, just a recommendation.... I wouldn't go with anything Sony makes, unless it's a deck, or a very good deal on a powerful amp. Sony amps are overrated, so do your research. I would stick with Alpine, JBL, Kicker, Clarion or Infinity... personally.

Looks like the front diff is getting dropped tomorrow morning. I gotta get this pig runnin' again! I miss her. Now that Thorley is supposidly not making headers for our Pathies, I dont know what I'm going to do with my crushed pipe.... Pacesetters... eeeeew

Well, with my limited mechanical ability, I'd really like to avoid dropping the diff, if possible. Haha.

Haven't been around for a fair while, I lost motivation trying to swap my swamped engine with a used one. A friend and myself got the engine out, we didn't drop the front diff or anything. Unbolted the tranny-engine bolts, pulled it out as far as we could and unbolted the pressure plate from the flywheel, pushed the pressure place and clutch back onto the spline shaft so we had enough room to pull the engine out and clear the front diff with the oil pan. It all worked great, but now we're stuck with getting it back in. My friend really doesn't want to drop the front diff, but it looks like thats the only way we're going to get it in... Anyone have some tips or tricks that I should try for getting this pig back in? Thanks Oh yeah, I also painted my valve covers a nice electric blue, and polished my intake so its nice and shiny.... Oh yeah, and topped it off with blue NGK wires. I'll definitely get some pictures when the engine is in, and I change valve covers and put my intake on.

KMA (Kennesaw Mountain Accessories) sells a "Wincher" for our trucks. http://www.kenmtnac.com/WiNissan.html

It took me about 15 minutes per sleeve, to get them out. I used a dremel with a cutting disc to cut the sleeve diagonally from one edge to the other. Then I used an air-chisel to hammer it out.

Just a picture of the panel as you would see it driving. My glassed pods I made for my JBL tweets are a little on the aftermarket look side. Makes me kind of nervous with thieves and all.

Does anyone have a picture of their factory a-pillar tweeters handy by any chance? Just wondering if I could track some panels down to replace the fiberglass ones I made, to make it look a little less obvious I've got a good stereo.

Tweeters on a factory WD21 stereo? I didn't know there were, but the a-pillar covers are easy to take off. Pull off the rubbery plastic type seal that's behind the panel away. It goes all the way from the kickpanel (down by the floor) around the doorjam and back down to the floor. Just pull it off where it's touching the a-pillar panel. Get a flathead screwdriver and pop out the panel. There are three clips if I remember correctly. You won't break the panel, it's pretty tough. Where you go from here is pretty self-explanatory. Cheers

When I changed the bushings in my rear arms, I just parked my Pathy, in gear, parking brake on and blocked the tires. I didn't put it on jackstands or anything, nothing moved. I did have to zip cut off the old bolts though, and replace them with brand new grade 8's that costed a pretty penny... so if you can avoid cutting, then do so.

Well I haven't been around much at all lately... Been busy with school but am now finished. Say hello to NPORA's newest, and most likely youngest paramedic! Anyway... As most know, I swamped my '90 wayyy back in May I think it was. Yesterday I yanked the engine out and I'm going to be throwing the replacement engine in sometime soon. I'm going to take the intake manifold off, and valve covers off to paint them, as well as the block. I will be replacing the gaskets on both. What should I be replacing other than those two sets of gaskets, manifold gaskets (might get Thorleys), plugs and wires?... Also, where can I get these parts over the internet? I can't find anything on AC. Summit? I don't know where. Also, I can't find the Thorleys on Summit anymore. Does anyone have the link to them? Thanks!

I hated that job on my '90. I ended up using a 3/4" drive socket (can't remember the size) and a piece of flat 3/8" steel. Socket on one side of the arm (in a vise) then the arm, then the bushing and steel plate against the other jaw. Squeezed right in for me, with the use of the lube that came with the bushings from AC. To get the old bushings out I just yanked them out with pliers (they were that bad) but the metal sleeve was stuck in there, and I had to take a dremel with a cut disc and cut it up a bit, and chizel it out with an air chizel. That was horrible. Took about 45-60min per sleeve.

I've got 32x11.50's on Yota rims on the Pathy right now. Haven't flexed it out, but it looks like she should be good until I flex it fully. (stock suspension, too)

The wheels are on, and they look pretty good. I know what the lug centric thing is now, they centered up fine once I tightened the lug nuts down. Engine swap is still incomplete. I need an extra hand, and some money. My dad didn't pay me for this months work at our resort before he went up North to work.. So, it will be minimum 2 weeks before I get to start working on it again. I guess I COULD pull the engine and just wait for the gasket/seal set and Thorleys... How complex is taking off the intake manifold and putting it back on? Simple as disconnecting the lines and such, removing the bolts and pulling it, then everything in reverse? Or would I have to change the seal or gasket, whatever is there?

I'll get a picture of the wheels to show you guys what I'm dealing with. They fit perfectly, it's just the hub gab that concerns me. The tires stick out a bit though...

Lug centric?

Well, my dad doesn't want the 32x11.50 BFG Muds that came on his Landcruiser. There are five, mounted to some pretty generic but cool looking wheels. I want them. The bolt pattern is the same, I threw one on the front end of my '90 Pathy. But, the hub diameter on the wheel is a little bigger. Are there sleeves that you can get that will fill this gap? It's about 3/16" gap all around the hub. Is it even worth it, or should I just get new wheels.

Wow, that Titan is absolutely amazingly sexy *drool*

Noiiiiiice! /applies as background for inspiration.

I have all of the electrical and lines disconnected in the engine bay itself, except for one line on the passenger side, that I have no idea what it is. A bigger line, almost like the AC line, curved from the wheel well, down the side of the engine, but towards the front. I'll get some more pictures one of these days, I have to work tomorrow cutting firewood all day, so I doubt I will be able to get some shots of it. I need to get new exhaust anyway. I cut out my muffler and replaced it with a glasspack, did a horrible job too. I'll have to disco the slave cyl, and lines next time I go out there to work on it. Next day I work on it, I plan to have the engine out. I wish you could put an engine in with Thorleys installed.. that would make it a little easier

I've decided to cut the exhaust out, because I don't want to re-use it anyway, with that huge crush in the front pipe... Thorleys bolt up to the existing flange at the y-pipe right? What does an exhaust shop do when they build a system off of the Thorleys, do they scrap the y-pipe and build off of each header and weld their own? Or do they build a flange that will bolt up to the y-pipe... Hmmm. This is the only thing that's holding me back. So once I get the exhaust out of the way, the transmission-engine bolts can come out, and the engine mount bolts, and she'll come right out? Do I need to do anything with the actual transmission itself?

The exhaust flange bolts on the passenger side came out with a little muscle, no penetrating lube. I haven't touched the drivers side, I can't get at them with the tools that I have right now; 4 6" extentions and one pivoting ratchet, among normal ones too....

I've read the engine removal section in my Chiltons over and over again. I was more or less looking for tips on getting the top tranny bolts out. There's no way I would dive into this type of project without a manual. And uncc, the sawzalling was going to be for cutting the pipe from the drivers side manifold, so I wouldn't have to unbolt it. I need a new exhaust system anyway, and was going to put Thorleys on. So, the exhaust issue needs to be conquered, unbolt the transmission, and the engine from the mounts and she should come right out. Will I need impact sockets/extensions for the tranny bolts? I have sockets and an impact gun and ratchet, but no extensions.

Starter is out. Passenger side exhaust is unbolted from the manifold. Drivers side I haven't even touched. Looks like I have to remove the front drive shaft to do so? Or do I just sawzall the pipe off, just above the driveshaft, pull the engine out, and slap some Thorleys onto the new engine and get a whole new system made at a shop. Now it's getting to the more important part... Unbolting from the transmission and the engine mounts. How many bolts are there holding the engine down, and how many holding it to the transmission? I don't know how I'm going to reach the bolts at the top of the bellhousing....