ILoveMyPatty

Well, she's pretty much finished with the exception of putting the diff back in, and the driveshafts. Then all the plugs and hoses, fan, alt, starter. Mostly simple stuff compared to what has already gone by. I missed the chance of getting my picture taken in my engine bay, stupid digital camera. Anyway, doesn't look like I'll be working on putting the diff back in today, I'm alone at the house and don't feel like turning my finger into something gruesome...

I would suggest getting an oil filter relocation kit from AC. Single oil filter relocation http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...dfdea9517db603d Dual oil filter relocation http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...dfdea9517db603d Heh, just noticed that Marks link sends you to a thread with a link for a cheaper kit, from Summit. I would rather deal with Summit than AC.

Anything is possible with money, time, and experience with fabbing. And I definitely dont have either of the three. Not sure if it's been done, but if a Chev 350 can go into a Pathy, then I would assume the 3.3s/c could go in.

We'll see how she goes this way. If I can't make 'er work I'll try your way.

You mean something like this? http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...552550f7816dfa2

I don't know what you mean by the eye bolt. You mean the two eyes that mount onto the suspension crossmember? I didn't undo the diff there, I took off the 4 bolts that those eyes are mounted to. There are no eyes on the crossmember, they're attatched to the diff still.

Well, after a lonnnnng time havin my Pathy down, she's starting to come together now. I'm not a mechanic, nor do I have ANY experience whatsoever with stuff like this. The most complicated thing I've ever done is an oil change, but I decided to tackle my engine swap by myself to save money. As of right now, the engine is sitting in the Pathy, bolted up to the transmission. Tomorrow I'll go and see if I can't at least get the front diff back in. I'd like to have everything done tomorrow with the diff and drive shafts, so all I have to worry about is the starter, alternator, A/C (which I might not put back in... might do some reasearch about onboard air.. anyone got some ideas?) then the fan, rad and intake. Oh yeah, and change my valve covers to the nicely painted blue ones I just did, and put my polished intake manifold on, with the new plug wires. We'll see how she goes. I'd have pictures for everyone but my digital camera decided to freeze up on me during the cold snap we had here while I was out ski-dooing with some buddies. Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted as to how I make out.

Welcome. And uhh yeah, we need more pics of that rig.

I'm so glad I'm 20 and haven't had one cavity, and all 4 wisdom teeth have grown in without the need to be removed. Ouch.

When I made my trip from the interior of BC to Southern Washington, I averaged 20mpg from here to the border (steep inclines on the highway), then 29 the rest of the way, averaging 70mph.

Okay, I go out to start bolting it up to the tranny to find that the guy that was helping me with my swap threw all the bolts into one container. Now I don't know where the longest and the shortest and the bolts in between go on the bellhousing. Nor do I know which bolts are transmission mounting bolts, or drive shaft bolts. I would assume the rear drive shaft bolts are bigger than the front, and there are 8 of them, and the fronts are smaller and there are 8... The tranny-engine bolts are really annoying me. There's one that's a tad longer than the rest, and there's one that's quite short and covered in oil (which would lead me to believe it goes near the starter) Then there are the two starter bolts. Oh man, what a headache.

All three on the pass. side came off for me, along with the stud without any penetrating oil, and for the drivers side, I had to take the manifold off. Even WITH the diff dropped, I still can't get the drivers side, they're siezed pretty good. Penetrating oil and heat will be your friends on this one

Haha, SAS sounds like a good idea. Well, I got the clutch lined up, and I just torqued down the pressure plate. Now I'll go out, and bolt 'er up to the tranny, throw my diff back in, put the motor mounts back on the block and bolt it down. Then comes the fun part of plugging it in. I'm scared about the first turn of the key... But I'm quite excited to see how the electric blue valve covers and polished intake look, with the blue plug wires....

Wahoo! It's comin along better than I had expected.. considering I have NO experience whatsoever, and I'm the only one wrenching on 'er. I got the front diff dropped today, with the help of the engine hoist (I don't have a floor jack). I didn't have to remove either t-bar, I just muscled it through the gap, but not overly rough with it as to bend the t-bars. Now I'm just trying to line up the spline shaft with the clutch, which is a piss off. But, I'm determined to get the engine in and mounted by the end of the day. Makes it ALOT easier to work, when the diff is dropped

You mean make the clutch splines centered with the pressure plate opening? I did that and bolted it up, hoping it would be just right and fit in. If not, I was planning on loosening the bolts a little and trying to make it work. What a PITA this job is with one person. My buddy got called to work, so I'm alone from here on out. What makes it even worse is that all my picture of when I started taking parts off (rad, ac, alt, ps pump and every other line connected to the engine) got deleted off of my computer somehow. But thank god I labled all of my electrical. I'll just have to try and place the hoses properly. It's a good thing that most of the rubber hoses are bent, which will make it easy to find where they go. I'll give everyone an update tomorrow as to how I did.

Do I really need to take the diff right out? I can't just drop it as far as I can, which looks like about 2.5"? Today I ended up disconnecting the front driveshaft, and disconnecting the axle shafts from the diff... What a pain that is with one person... I had to put a prybar on the brake pedal to prevent the axle shaft from moving while torquing on the bolts. Got them both off, now tomorrow I'll try to drop the diff.

Well I'm without a job right now, haha. I'm waiting for our fishing resort to open in two months so I can work there. I don't really feel like looking for work for two months and then leaving. But yeah, I'll call around and see if I can find some. I wish I were rich . Then I'd have my nice Titan... and of course still keep my Pathfinder!

Money is quite tight, yes. And it's an hour drive to the closest Crappy Tire, which means another $40. I know I should have some, I'm just trying to get by without them. Yes, yes I know... It's not a good idea, and will be slower without them, but whatever....

Okay well I'm going to drop the front diff, but I don't have jackstands. All I have are two ramps, and a couple bottle jacks. Is there some easier way to get the clearance I need, without supprting the frame with jackstands?

That would happen to me sometimes, and jumping wouldn't work either. The battery turned out not dead, just the positive cable to the battery was slightly loose in the ring terminal. Check your batt ground and ring terminals before you dive into anything.

I fixed the problem ages ago. Turned out to be the lower trailing arm (control arm) bushings were worn out. Replaced them with some poly-eurethanes from AC, and she rides perfect now. Pain in the arse getting the old bushing sleeve out. Lots of people say to use an air chisel.. I tried with no luck, until I used a dremel and cutting disk to cut out a 1/2" strip from it, then she came right out.

I'm in for a set of chrome Thorleys. As long as I can figure out a way to get them to BC, Canada.

I have no experience with the speakers in the rear ceiling, but the fronts are easy. Just pull off the plastic, and fit some 6.5's in there. I was running some 6.5" Alpine Type S's for a while, then switched to JBL 5.25" components, and made fibreglass pods for the tweeters in the a-pillar. If you want it to sound good, you're going to have to do some minor trimming in the rear ceilings it sounds like. Also, just a recommendation.... I wouldn't go with anything Sony makes, unless it's a deck, or a very good deal on a powerful amp. Sony amps are overrated, so do your research. I would stick with Alpine, JBL, Kicker, Clarion or Infinity... personally.

Looks like the front diff is getting dropped tomorrow morning. I gotta get this pig runnin' again! I miss her. Now that Thorley is supposidly not making headers for our Pathies, I dont know what I'm going to do with my crushed pipe.... Pacesetters... eeeeew

Well, with my limited mechanical ability, I'd really like to avoid dropping the diff, if possible. Haha.