packie88

im excited makesure to take plenty of pictures

what are you taking about not understanding what your trying to say

alright here you go ill hand rancho rs 44044 http://www.jegs.com/i/Rancho/801/RS44044/10002/-1 rear springs i used basically any progressive early bronco 5.5 inch coil http://nissannut.com/projects/long_arm/ thats the rear link page i used to gather my information http://nissannut.com/projects/SAS_WD21/ and what i used for the front i kinda used those a s a basis of my research... search around nissannuts website he knows alot and has posted it for others to see and use

REGULATORS MOUNT UP..... thanks pezzy

ive used the bosch ones for awhile now and see mto be doing there job... the fram ones are over priced adn cheaplly built not to mention the fact that they are th lgihtest cheapest things ever... ive also like the napa ones.

crumple zones and pathfinders a re the @!*%.. they absolutly have savedd lives i think someone should show that idiot who sued nissan how lives are really saved and that shes lucky to be alive

what 87pathy said is exactly what i have going on

i went leaves cause its cheaper and now i wanna go to some type of link/coil setup

yep and its perfect timing casue its right before back to school stuff. and everything

im down for a wheeling trip once his rig is ready to proceed to the trails we should make it a yearly event....and name it "THE MR. JIM RUN"

lets say i did all the fabrication myself. people will argue this point but to get into a D44 its gonna cost you 500+ depending on what gears and what all you wanna put in it. unless you have someone donating all the parts 1.5k aint gonna happen. on an R50 where there are no prefabbed parts for it you probably looking at around 3.5-4k before rubber/rims IMHO.

ya ive heard of the elliptical stuff and know someone using it on the jeep. i dont know if thats as easy applicable to an r50.... and i dont know of any1 doing it on a wd21

search for a member named MOOKIE he did leaves on all 4 and got rid of the 5 link rear suspension... his is a wd21 and it flexes nice.

is it just me or does it look like its super tilted foward.

lol i was just about to say that i have leafs up front and coils in the back. mainly casue of cost and casue doing leafs up front was alot easier and i was under time constraints (using the parents garage)(< which didnt end well) lol. anyway i seem to get flex fine and havent had a problem with any obstacles yet. and that picture with the forklift isnt close to being flexed out. checkout the one in the truck of the month voting ( second picture down) im up on a stump. and just for reference im 6' 2" tall so if that helps with letting you know how things are flexing. but the arguement of SOA vs. SUA vs any type of links goes on forever and will continue to be argued. you just got remember whats your budget and what are you gonna use it for then figure out what fits you best

i got mine from AC and not cheap

ive got the mean green 180 amp alty and i love it... no issues what so ever

skip the BL and SAS it.

nope wont warp cause of the heat. that exactly what i did with my bushing, took a propane torch to em and an old screwdriver; which somehow found its way back to craftsman for a replacement, lol. can be done in about a day as long as you dont run into any big snags.

Very nice and very detailed work. I bet it took you quite a bit of blood sweat and tears. Very nice. you should throw up some pics of it with the lights on

in my opnion 110v units i wouldnt trust the penetration on them on 1/4 inch material. If you do get a 110v make sure its a gas unit because youll have much better welds then that of one without. i have a 220v stick welder and love it have had no problems with any penetration or anything. i would stray away from the 110v units especially if your gonna be doing heavy material and expect it to hold well

well good to know im not the only one. kinda. minew does the same thing when the car is off. but as soon as it turns on and i move a little it gets really spongy. Any one else having this problem or what they did to fix it

whats that do and is that different then regular bleeding

Alright so i have my 1994 SAS se pathy. And im having some brake issues. no matter how many times i bleed the thing the brake pedal is still spongy till about the last couple inches. I just replace the master cylinder and that didnt help either. im kinda at a loss as far as what to do. anyone got some ideas

LEaving the first layer of the winch on is where it will put you in the "pulling zone" each layer wrapped on after that decreases the pulling power of the winch.