QuismO

weups...didn't know he had a 2001...that lucky bastard =P

also, as i was reading this thread, i saw that you don't have to replace the stock shocks in order to fit the OME springs...and some actually liked this setup better. i only read about this for the front though, can you use the stock shocks and OME springs for the rear as well? also, this might be a stupid question, but are shocks the same as struts? and coils are springs yea? stupid i know, but i'm more of a hands on person that doesn't know the technical names for these things. hopefully i can get some clarification on this so that i can actually visualize what people are doing with their setup on this thread =P

man...i was seriously thinking about getting the old man emu's and installing them myself. actually, i just looked at the FSM, and yea, i don't have a vise or coil compressor =/. to a local shop i'll go =P

welcome pathfound...you'll love your pathy even more as time passes =D no joke there =) seriously, these guys and gals are EXTREMELY helpful. definitely...i did the same when i got my pathy used, although i didn't do it myself...was kind of scared to go fooling around with a truck that i've never touched before. now that i'm more familiar i'll probably do it myself next time around. never done a t-belt replacement before, but knowing that these folks have my back, i'll whip out the tools and do it myself.

sweet...at least you know what the prob is now! even better, it's getting fixed. and EVEN better, you have more new parts installed that you won't have to replace in the near future =P

congrats on your purchase! yea i think you should change 'em to be sure. intervals are 60k miles according to the manual. also, t-belt would be a good change if you're unsure when that was last changed.

27 on the 27th =P

i'm sure it was hard to say. but man, that's some severe rusting!!! dangerous!!! i wouldn't know what to do!

well i just changed my oil yesterday to synthetic 5w-30. i do feel a difference in the engine's response and ease of pushing the pistons. however, it SEEMS like gas mileage is WORSE! but maybe it's because i just got new A/T tires which were about 7lbs heavier each, than the ome dueler H/T's. plus i did a lot of driving in downtown San Francisco over the weekend. we'll see how it goes in a little bit. i'm going to make some calculations this week.

man a football shape?! yea that has to be a PITA!! especially since the plug is recessed/flush with the hole. and yea, you guys are right...ATF is used in the transfer case. thanks a bunch!

blah i see that website posted all over this forum, and it never even crossed my mind to check it thanks obx

for all of you that have the heavy-duty or medium-duty OME springs, where and how much did you get them for? Today, i noticed that my front left side is a little lower than the rest, about half to 3/4 of an inch. i believe that this is why the front right tire gets uneven wear over time (inside knuckle gets worn out over a long period of time). i figure if it's time to replace the suspension, might as well go for a stiffer, more truck-like ride. i don't want to lift her as i rarely go off road. and if i do, it's easy/intermediate stuff.

actually i just read the FSM and the recommended change intervals... 30k miles for diff oil... however, i can't find anything on transfer-case or AT fluid intervals

15k eh? i need to read up on the diff fluid intervals. mine have 11k on them right now. I'd rather change them now while it's dry out rather than change them during the rainy fall season. I want my drivetrain in tip-top shape for 4-wheelin in the snow this winter. hell, i might as well do the AT fluid too.

slick, i forgot to ask...what is this "restore" thing that you are using? what does it do?

FREE?!! you lucky ass =P hmmm, so fram sucks eh? what do you guys/gals think about penzoil and bosch oil filters? i've been alternating between the two as those are the only other options at the local auto shop (bosch, penzoil, and fram). hehe mz, no i don't have a drain container, i just use this huge aluminum pan that i have no other use for. yea dag i hear you on that one, it applies to almost anything.

is LSD gear oil a higher grade than "regular" gear oil? can i use LSD gear oil in the front diff IF the auto parts store only had LSD gear oil?

yea i hear ya on that 5L jug. plus it makes it a whole lot easier when bringing it back to your local auto parts store to recycle the used oil. not to mention having to funnel the used oil into 4 separate 1L bottles =P

hey xplor, thanks for the tip on removing the fill plug first!!! never thought about that! i'd be screwed if that happened -thnkboutit- yea i was wondering about the drain plug for the rear. saw a bolt on the back side of the rear diff, but it looked too high to be a drain bolt...i think this is the one that you're talking about trainman. i'll take a look at the bottom once i actually get cracking at it tomorrow. hehe trainman, yea i was thinking that some kind of diff fluid line connecting the front to the rear sounds a little off...plus i didn't see any. FYI, the FSM i was looking at was for a '97 pathy as i'm sure that they're identical. i think i'll change the transfer case fluid as well while i'm under there. any tips on this job? the FSM makes it look pretty straight forward...and i'm hoping it is

really? why not castrol? i've always thought it was good. used it in my celica 'cause of the castrol celica GT4 =P

I'm looking at the FSM, and i only see a drain bolt for the front diff. does this drain both front and rear? and if i have an LSD, then i have to replace all diff gear with approved LSD gear oil correct? Just double checking before i change some of the fluids tomorrow. first time i've ever done diff oil. so i don't want to screw up :o

my dial only has 2wd, auto, and 4wd lock.

Just curious as to what kind/brand of oil you guys and gals are using. maybe all of you have certain reasons why you're using the ones you use, and why you DON'T use other types/brands. i'm asking 'cause i'm still uncertain as to which oil to stick to. i've tried dino oil to synthetic (thank goodness no leaks), but i'm trying to see what most of you use as you guys n gals are more mechanically inclined than i am.

sweet...thanks! i guess it ISN'T redundant having both the knob and the t-case lever -thnkboutit-

ok i tried to search for my old thread that i started a while back but couldn't find it, this is pretty close as you guys discussed the mechanical differences. in my Q, i have BOTH, the all-mode knob, and the transfer case lever. lever has 4hi & 4lo. i know that 4hi can be shifted on the fly, but does the knob have to be set to auto/4wd in order for the lever to actually be in 4wd? i've NEVER used the lever, not even in the snow. the knob does indeed engage auto and 4wd without any use of the transfer case lever. i'm assuming that turning the knob into 4wd and putting the auto-shifter (not the transfer case lever) into 1st or 2nd gear is like 4lo. am i wrong? does the transfer case lever use some other "set of gears" that the knob doesn't? to me, a lever AND a knob for 4wd is VERY redundant and unnecessary (if my above assumption is correct).