QuismO

ahhhhhh! when it's in its forward position, we thought that it was in neutral. we see how it is now =P thanks a bunch!

quick question...my cousin bought a '98 pathy, auto w/4wd. we've looked through the manual and are figuring out how to shift into 4hi. 4lo works as you just shift into it while stopped. but to shift into 4hi...we couldn't. the manual says that you can shift from 2hi to 4hi on the fly, but we can't even get the transfer case lever into 2hi to begin with. can anyone please chime in and shed some light on this for us? thanks a bunch.

yea i figured that "auto" mode would trigger the error light with the hubs unlocked because when it senses the friction, it would seem like there'd be none (maybe other pathy owners with auto can verify). But to have it triggered when in 2WD, is totally odd, and goes against what one would expect. But maybe you're right, maybe the computer still works even in 2wd.

man michie...i sure hope you figure this out. i want to get the warns when i get some springs, but naturally, i'm reluctant to get the hubs after hearing what you're going through. i can see your train of thought and i too am puzzled as to why...almost to the point where i want to get the hubs to see if the same thing will happen to my QX4. maybe it's different because we have the lever for 4hi/4lo AND a knob for 2wd, auto, and lock? i have no idea, that's the only difference i see between our 4wd system and a pathy.

there's also a thread about the QX4 vs Pathy in the R50 section: HERE

not much of a difference from the pathy...most are cosmetic. i'd say the only real mechanical difference is that the QX4 has both a t-case lever (4lo and 4hi) AND the shift on the fly knob (2wd, auto, 4wd lock). i bought my '97 last year for 8k flat, not bad since it has all of the features of a fully loaded SE...although i miss my celica...had to sell her to get the Q =P main cosmetic differences that i can think of are the grill, yellow fog lights, and running boards (which most here would replace with sliders anyways).

ok i know we're straying away from the original topic, but didn't want to start a new thread for a quick question/verification. i read the following from a thread in the wd section: i'm going to change my fuel filter while i'm under there and read in the FSM to depressurize the fuel line, but they did it with some electronic device in the FSM. i don't have that device, so i'm wondering if gotrek's above technique will work just as effectively?

damn....that thing DOES look brand new!!! those pics look like they came straight from a magazine ad from the wd days =P. Looks GREAT pathfound =D

nicee...i'm such a procrastinator...next weekend =X

haha sweet. man that 5th gear must've been teasing you all of this time =P

it's cheap on ebay. $6.99 but on CD though. HERE

yea i don't see much of a difference in mileage. i actually tried it last fall driving on two different trips to sacramento. one trip w/AC, one w/o. still ended up with a little under 1/4 tank when i got home. EDIT: I'm sure i did consume a little more gas on the trip with AC...i'm not going to argue with the laws of physics, but it was definitely negligable.

alright cool...i guess i didn't do it tight enough this time around hehe.

try mounting your full-size spare...see if the problem goes away. if it doesn't...maybe your problem is steering related, very possibly linked to the incident where you damaged your rim. just in case yenno? before you go off buying a rim that you didn't really need in the first place.

well, on the way home from work today, i heard this sound coming from the cargo area, sounded like i had a big container full of liquid swishing around in it. after parking in the driveway, i'm looking around the cargo area...nope, took out all of the soda, coolers and what not from the BBQ this weekend...nothing. looked under the rear and i noticed that the spare tire was lowered 3-5 inches from its storing position. i should note that i used the spare tire before i got my new tires. but when i loaded up the bad tire, it didn't come loose. anyways, my question is: Is there a point when turning the rod to raise up the spare so that it locks into place (like will i feel a *click* or something)? or do i just raise up the tire until the tire is tight against the underside of the pathy?

lmao venge! hey i paid a lot for those lessons thank you very much! =P thanks though, that helped a lot!

ahhhhhhhhhhh i see. so in my r50, the rear has springs and shocks, and shocks don't go inside the springs like struts do...which would be the front end. hopefully i have it right now

weups...didn't know he had a 2001...that lucky bastard =P

also, as i was reading this thread, i saw that you don't have to replace the stock shocks in order to fit the OME springs...and some actually liked this setup better. i only read about this for the front though, can you use the stock shocks and OME springs for the rear as well? also, this might be a stupid question, but are shocks the same as struts? and coils are springs yea? stupid i know, but i'm more of a hands on person that doesn't know the technical names for these things. hopefully i can get some clarification on this so that i can actually visualize what people are doing with their setup on this thread =P

man...i was seriously thinking about getting the old man emu's and installing them myself. actually, i just looked at the FSM, and yea, i don't have a vise or coil compressor =/. to a local shop i'll go =P

welcome pathfound...you'll love your pathy even more as time passes =D no joke there =) seriously, these guys and gals are EXTREMELY helpful. definitely...i did the same when i got my pathy used, although i didn't do it myself...was kind of scared to go fooling around with a truck that i've never touched before. now that i'm more familiar i'll probably do it myself next time around. never done a t-belt replacement before, but knowing that these folks have my back, i'll whip out the tools and do it myself.

sweet...at least you know what the prob is now! even better, it's getting fixed. and EVEN better, you have more new parts installed that you won't have to replace in the near future =P

congrats on your purchase! yea i think you should change 'em to be sure. intervals are 60k miles according to the manual. also, t-belt would be a good change if you're unsure when that was last changed.

27 on the 27th =P

i call her "Q" 'cause she's a QX, plus my last name starts with a Q...and she's definitely fams =P