QuismO

You can download it HERE. but you'll need ExtractNow to extract the pdf file

i see that you have a 94. i have an r50 and mine doesn't automatically arm itself as far as i know...if it does, it doesn't do it that fast. is your alarm stock? or aftermarket?

yea, plus it's easier when the engine's cold, so that you can actually feel around w/o burning your hand/arm the first time around.

from your description, it sounds like your engine is bogging? sounds like it's about to die when at a stop or idle? yea...ECU codes can help you narrow your problem.

i'd be worried about carbon monoxide and other gases/fumes going into the cabin, especially when at a stop. the diff shouldn't be affected.

same here, no faulty fuel injectors in any of our nissan vehicles (look @ signature). i'd have to say that we have over 450k miles between all of them.

the ECU is an Engine/Electronic Control Unit. It controls and monitors almost all critical functions of your truck, such as emissions, ignition system, transmission, engine, etc. The light can be bad or good, it's a light that should blink a number of times to give you a certain trouble code (each code represents a different malfunction...a code of 55 says that there is no malfunction). go to the link below to see what your situation is. Now i'm not sure if it should keep on blinking green when in non-diagnostic mode, but you can look at this LINK so that you can get an idea about what the ecu is and how that blinking light works. See if the ECU is in diagnostic mode or not.

yea i replaced my rear brake shoes a couple months ago, at approximately 149k miles...they looked like the originals...and even then, they looked like they had some meat on them. i just decided to replace them 'cause there was SOME intermittent squeaking, plus i was doing the front brakes.

your tank can hold about 21.1 gallons...so let's say you've used 16 gallons (since your light didn't turn on) on that 220 mile drive...i'd say you're averaging around 14 mpg. that little green light under your passenger seat is from your ECU, it's the diagnostic LED...maybe the previous owner set it to diagnostic mode and never set it back?

I'm not sure what program you're using...i use ExtractNow with no problems. maybe upgrade your adobe acrobat reader? maybe even downgrade it. for some reason, my cousin's PC won't print correctly when using adobe acrobat reader version 7. if you try to print the entire FSM, there's going to be A LOT of pages. printing double-sided should help too. i'm thinking about printing it at the office...too many pages for my home printer =P

an intermittent short in the brake light circuit can definitely explain the power drain during braking, check if your brake lights actually work. if they don't...check the fuse. if it's blown, the bad wire is most likely between the brake light and the fuse. if they're still working, then the bad wire has to be between the brake light switch and the fuse box, or maybe even closer towards the battery it probably only happens sometimes, maybe due to vehicle movement which moves let's say an exposed part of the brake light wire closer to the body/frame or anything that it can ground itself on.

damn man...sorry to hear about the pathy. you should stick around even when you do get the fronty. the supercharger on the vg33 is actually pretty sweet. i was driving my uncle's '01 frontier up to tahoe every winter season before i got my pathy...i needed his 4wd for the snow. my buddies and i would load that truck bed with tons of gear/cargo and it'd climb those mountains with no probs. your knowledge of pathies will definitely carry over. my uncle sold the fronty last year and got a 02 tacoma TRD (a series of decisions that he totally regrets now), but it was the prerunner edition, so it only had a lockable diff on the rear axel...i was like wth...you should've just kept the SC fronty as it already has 4wd...more useful than a locking RWD tacoma

man, sorry to hear that. is anyone else that you know going to be at the shipping address after your mom leaves? in any case...it'll make it that much more sweet once you do receive them =P

the ground wire in the harness is the one in the middle. if you're looking at the harness head on, from left to right, it's high beam positive, ground (negative), low beam positive. a ground wire is any wire bolted directly to the frame. so if you don't want to mess with the harness's ground/negative wire, that's no problem as it's general practice to bolt a wire to the frame and use that as a ground wire. i honestly thought it was just my pathy that had poor headlights, then i rode in my cousin's 98, and his is horrible too. the "super-white" lights don't really do much, except make your headlights LOOK white, but in general, you won't be able to see any better, sometimes it's even worse. you can try the relay method at the beginning of this thread, ALL that have done it, notice a big difference.

so how did this go for you? my rear bushings look like they will be going out sometime within the next year or two. i'd attack the problem now before snow season, but i don't have an air hammer or a vise. i'm sure it's a possible job, so i'll ask if it's a REASONABLE job given the fact that i don't have an air hammer or vise, or a sawz all?

according to the factory service manual, the tach is controlled by a signal from the ECM, which is located behind the dash right above the gas pedal...check that there is continuity between terminal 3 and the wire going into your tach. then check that the signal varies when you turn on your car and rev. if the signal's good, your tach may be bad. try a local junkyard for pathies before going to the dealer.

i have an auto, but i think i'll be doing this soon. could you imagine how much worse it'd be if you didn't use redline? =P

i use NERO which came with my burner, i believe it's the last, or 2nd to last step where there's a check box to enable cd text (it'll pull info from the mp3 info tags or straight from the file name if it's in the "artistname - songtitle.mp3" format). i know that ROXIO and the older adaptec cd burning programs have this option...most, if not ALL of the new software have this option standard.

this happened to me in the celica... turned out to be the drive belt that drives the alternator...it slipped on the alternator pulley. but it happened more when i turned to full lock, possibly because the same belt that turned the alternator was also driving the power steering. blah, i guess it might not be the same as your prob...maybe similar?

congrats on your purchase! if it's anything like the bose cd changer in our maxima, i believe it's the PYT button (not too sure, haven't rode in it for a while) that toggles between displaying the track title, disc title, or artist name ONLY IF the CD has cdtext, you can burn cd's with this option with no problem on current cd burners. but as far as cd's with no text info, i'm not sure if you could enter it manually through the stereo interface...but if it could, i'm sure it would be a pain =P hopefully someone finds out for you. EDIT: as for your tire issue, i noticed a HUGE difference from the stock bridgestones to all terrains...more of a crisp and controlled ride, especially over bumps, holes, and while turning. i found the stock bridgestones to be too soft and mushy 'causing a slow repetitive bouncing when going over bumps, and excessive tire roll in turns.

i agree. i did my t-belt and drive belts in june. i retightened them a day later as they stretched and started to squeal on cold starts. retightened them last month as they squealed a tad again on cold starts, the stretched a little bit more...hopefully it won't come back, i don't want to tighten them to the point where they might break sooner than expected.

this is a how to on clearing the P1447 DTC that a few of us with an R50 has dealt with...i just figured it'd be helpful for those who run into this problem in the future as dealers have quoted me from $800-$1200 for clearing it and fixing the EVAP system. I figured that it is also helpful as it's not a code that you should drive with as it builds pressure in the fuel tank which can cause fuel to spray out of the fuel filter or even the gas cap if the tank is full enough, making it an extremely dangerous fire hazard. first off, the P1447 DTC is triggered when the EVAP control system isn't operating properly or there is a leak between the intake manifold and the pressure sensor. the parts between the pressure sensor and intake manifold are: 1. EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve 2. EVAP canister purge control valve 3. EVAP canister purge volume control valve (Part # 14930-3M201) $144.31 If you've received this P1447 DTC, chances are that the brick of charcoal in the canister has fallen apart over time, and filled the lines with charcoal. this affects parts 2 & 3 from the above list, and of course the EVAP canister (Part # 14950-1s717 $144.22). but when you replace the canister, you have to replace the EVAP canister vent control valve (part # 14935-54u06 about $100), and don't forget the o-ring (part # 16618-40u00 about $1.60) that goes between the canister and the vent control valve. If you attack this DTC early enough, all you have to replace is the canister and vent control valve with the o-ring, which will add up to under $300 MSRP...a lot better than paying upwards of $1000 for parts and labor. Don't be scared to do it, it's actually quite simple. Tools needed for the job: Air compressor with tapered nozzle Socket wrench set (10mm and 12mm sockets) pliers flat tip screwdriver safety goggles parts: canister part # 14950-1s717 $144.22 EVAP canister vent control valve (part # 14935-54u06 about $100) o-ring (part # 16618-40u00 about $1.60) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: around $245 plus tax Time: 1.5-5 Hours DOE Note: do this in the driveway as charcoal will be everywhere. first, make sure that this problem is the same as yours...remove the hoses from the purge volume control valve and remove the two fastening bolts that hold it to the frame you can shake it around to see if little bits of charcoal fall out, if so, then you're in business. open the gas cap to release pressure from the tank and then close it. put your safety goggles on as debri/dust/charcoal falls everywhere during the following steps. locate the canister (not really a can, it's a black plastic rectangular box) located behind the left driver-side rear wheel, tucked into the bumper. use the pliers to slide the hose clamps away from the canister and slide off the hozes...the screwdriver can come in handy to initially pry the hoses off of the canister. next, there are 3 bolts holding it in place, 2 in the rear, one in front, all easily accessible, remove them and carefully drop the box down as there is a wire harness that is connected to the vent control valve, press the release tab until you hear the click, then pull off...i sprayed the harness with water to wash away the dirt so that it's easier to press the tab on the harness. this is what it looks like after you've removed the canister: next, you'll have to go under the hood. on the corner closest to the steering wheel, you will see the purge valve and purge volume control valve. disconnect the hoses from these using the pliers and screwdriver. be careful not to break the plastic purge valve. shake all of the charcoal out of this little plastic guy and then finish it off with a can of compressed air. next, get the volume control valve (look at picture above) and unscrew the two screws that hold the halves together. clean the o-ring and wipe the cylindrical cavity clean. in the other half, you will see two more screws, unscrew the two and separate this half into fourths and a step motor will be revealed. be careful when pulling these two apart as there is a spring inside that might fall out. clean the magnet and lubricate it with wd-40 while turning the magnet and ball-bearing washer. ground charcoal makes it hard for the step motor to function smoothly. as you turn the magnet back and forth, you should see the grey plastic valve go up and down. wipe the parts dry and assemble. before putting the two main halves together, plug the purge volume control valve into its harness and turn the ignition to the "on" position, you should see the valve go up, and when you turn it off, it should go back down. if you've cleaned it all you can, and it still doesn't go up and down, then you might need to get a new purge volume control valve for about $150. remove the air intake box by removing the 3 bolts/nuts. next to the intake box cavity, you will see the network of EVAP hoses and other sensors/valves/solenoids. unplug the two hoses that lead to the engine block (remember which hoses go where), and the one that comes from the plastic purge control valve. then remove the three bolts/nuts that hold the hose assembly to the engine bay wall: this is what you'll get: this makes it easier to unplug the hoses from the sensors/solenoids/valves as these are plugged onto plastic tubes that are little more delicate. a can of pressurized air should suffice to blow out these lines. now you'll now have to lay under the pathy. scoot yourself under the rear axle, as if you're go to change the fuel filter, there is an L-shaped rubber hose connected to metal tubes of the main EVAP line, you can probably disconnect one end of the rubber hose, if you can't, no worries, i was tired from work and then this, so i skipped it =P but if you can, great, even more thorough. here's where it is, highlighted in purple After all of the above is done, you're ready to blow out the main line. get your air compressor and blow in from the engine bay: blow into the hose highlighted in red. if you've disconnected the L-shaped rubber hose near the fuel tank, then you should get some charcoal shooting out of that area, if you didn't, then the charcoal will shoot out of where the canister was in the driver side rear area. i didn't have much charcoal as most was still in the canister, but if you've driven long enough with this problem then maybe you might get a little more. once you've blew them all out, connect all the valves and hoses in the engine bay. then you'll have to connect your new vent valve to your new canister, don't forget to put the o-ring on the canister. once the vent valve is on, bolt the canister into place, connect the wire harness to the new vent valve, and connect the 3 hoses accordingly. Then clear the ECM DTC by following the steps located in the garage>how-to's THREAD. hopefully the MIL/SES light shouldn't come back on (assuming there is nothing else wrong with your pathy). MANY THANKS GOES TO VENGEFUL AND XPLORX4 for saving me $1000 so that i can do this myself. GOOD LUCK! ian quismo

i think that when the OD light flashes, it has something to do with the transmission. a self diagnostics test can be done w/o an obdii reader which is transmission specific. if you have the FSM, it's on page 29 of the AT section. if you don't, here are the steps: 1. turn key to "on" 2. move shift lever to "D" 3. turn key to "off" 4. set overdrive button to "off" 6. turn key to "on" 7. wait 2 seconds 8. move shift lever to 2nd gear 9. set overdrive to "on" 10. move shift lever to 1st gear 11. set overdrive to "off" 12. press gas pedal to the floor and then release it 13. look at your OD light...there should be 1 long, then 10 flashes: if all 10 of them are short, then there is no malfunction in the AT if all are not the same, remember which of the 10 flashes are longer. 1st light is long: revolution sensor circuit 2nd light is long: speed sensor circuit 3rd light is long: throttle position sensor circuit 4th light is long: shift solenoid valve A circuit 5th light is long: shift solenoid valve B circuit 6th light is long: overrun clutch solenoid valve circuit 7th light is long: torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit 8th light is long: a/t fluid temperature sensor 9th light is long: engine speed signal circuit 10th light is long: line pressure solenoid valve circuit so it pretty much tells you which a/t circuit is shorted or disconnected. this could be something totally irrelevant, but at least you can give it a shot =P

UPDATE: so i went in and exchanged the purge volume control valve for the EVAP canister and purge valve with o-ring...i went on the pinnacle nissan site and looked up the msrp's for the two parts and told them that the other nissan dealer quoted me for those prices and they matched it no problem. $260 for the valve and canister including tax, kind of pricey, but at least i don't have to pay the dealer's quote of $800-1000 for this job. i'm almost done, already disconnected all of the lines and pulled the canister, i'm just waiting for my buddy to get here with his air compressor so that i can blow the carbon bits out of the lines. then i'll reset the ecm and hopefully that damn light doesn't come back =P EDIT: finally blew out the lines. seems clean as a whistle now, air flow from front to rear is smooth and strong. I reset the ECM, and i'm going on a 30 mile or so trip to pick something up from a friend's house, so about 60 miles round trip...hopefully the light doesn't come on.

WHAT on god's green earth was that guy trying to do?!!!