QuismO

i don't know if any spark plug would cause that much of a mpg drop. but just in case, the spark plug gap should be between .039-.043 inches, or 1.0-1.1 mm. how does your air filter look?

i think that we all tend to agree that a tranny cooler on an r50, or any pathy for that matter, is a good precautionary measure and will definitely lengthen the life of your transmission. $50 well spent considering the expensive price tags placed on transmissions, let alone the labor to install one.

hehe fueler, i don't know what mine's set at as i never went into calibration mode. maybe it's set on 0 for default?

i too am wondering which brands are good. in the last thread where o2 sensors came up, i hear that it doesn't really matter, just make sure you know if you're replacing a four or three-wire o2 sensor...and quite frankly, i don't even know which of those i have =P i just wanted to replace them before they go out as preventative measures.

that makes a lot of sense....thanks!

hey venge, what's the process for flushing air out of the ATF system?

i'd totally do this if it was a direct bolt on (i'm not good at fabbing things up). so do you totally remove the clutch fan and its components? what about the belt that drives the fan? turbo, do you have the t-stat/relay setup? or just a switch? how would you hook a lead up to the t-stat? or is there already a sensor of some sort that triggers the fan?

lol....yea, on some models, you have to hold the door handle up =P

hmm that looks pretty cool. UHaul also sells one...$46...i've been looking at this one to replace my stock tranny cooler EDIT: you're gonna put it in line with your stock one? maybe it'll make your ATF too cold? also...Amazon sells the B&M for $40 and free shipping, FYI =)

if your t-stat is stuck open, your temp gauge should drop pretty low at highway speeds, then go back to the middle at low speeds or at a stop...this happened in my celica. also, if you have the automatic climate control, it won't blow hot air unless the engine is warm enough. but since you're wondering how long ours take, here's how mine is. when i was in tahoe last winter, maybe around 17-25 degrees F and snowfall, it took a good 10-15 minutes before the temp needle got to the middle. Here in the city, it's about 45-50 F in the morning nowadays, and it takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get to normal temp.

i remember this happening to me with my celica. had gorillaz on them. luckily the previous owner put the key# sticker on the doorjam =P

hehe yea...mine's over 2 tons w/o ANYTHING in it =P

NICE...what size tires are on there now?

lol @ 2 weeks

daaamn!!! could you imagine a pathy with 1000 HP...goodness. "easy on the gas pedal son!!! you might fly off of that little hill there" the transmission and drivetrain would need some major modifications/reinforcement.

indeed...welcome and let us know how your progress is going! here's that nissan racer i was talking about. i think it was running 30+ PSI boost producing over 700 hp (from what i remember). finished first/top 5 in many GTP races...that's 250+ laps....major endurance! =) proof that these engines can take a beating. the above is from the early 90's...below is the one of the 80's, also using the vg30 block, awesome car...look at the flames!

lookin good michie!

sweet...at least you got it up and running. a rusted hole in the door is nothing compared to what others are experiencing...so feel lucky! =)

what information are you looking for? it's exactly the same one you download directly from the nissan website. keep in mind that there are SEVERAL pdf files, and each one is a section from the manual.

yea i agree. remember the nissan GTP ZX Turbo? i believe it was racing in the 80's into the early 90's?man that car was sweet, and it was running the vg30. if i'm not mistaken, the vg33 is just a bored out version of the vg30.

You can download it HERE. but you'll need ExtractNow to extract the pdf file

i see that you have a 94. i have an r50 and mine doesn't automatically arm itself as far as i know...if it does, it doesn't do it that fast. is your alarm stock? or aftermarket?

yea, plus it's easier when the engine's cold, so that you can actually feel around w/o burning your hand/arm the first time around.

from your description, it sounds like your engine is bogging? sounds like it's about to die when at a stop or idle? yea...ECU codes can help you narrow your problem.

i'd be worried about carbon monoxide and other gases/fumes going into the cabin, especially when at a stop. the diff shouldn't be affected.