QuismO

i just calculated my hwy mileage to 15.83 mpg with A/C on. i'll try anything to boost my mileage, so i'll try the ngk's =P i have bosch plat's in there right now

hmmm, i'm not sure what i replaced my plugs with a while back. so i'll get better mileage with the oem ngk's eh? maybe i'll swap them out for the hell of it.

hey venge...what is this "white lithium grease" that you speak of? =P and also, where can i get it? my front windows are getting slow and sound like they're struggling to go up...same with my cousin's new 98 pathy. i remember the plastic sheets that you are talking about from my speaker swaps. so i'm assuming that if i look through the openings in the door frame behind the paneling, i should be able to see the window tracks? where are the tracks inside the door located (in relation to the window...window edge?)? if so, could i just apply the grease to the window tracks that surround the window and hope that the grease is carried down as i roll the window down? yea i'm too lazy to take off some panels =P edit: i saw the lithium grease on the kragen website.

yea michie's right. the Q's have BOTH the transfer case lever (for 4hi, neut, and 4lo) AND the knob (which selects either 1. 2wd, 2. auto-mode, or 3. 4wd-LOCK). The t-case lever does not affect anything if the knob is in 2wd mode, it is only in effect if either auto or 4wd lock is selected on the knob.

i actually ran into this problem too when i first changed the plugs on my pathy with the vg33. if you look in the black bag where your spare tire tools are (as stryker said), there are two "tubes" with holes and a little crooked steel bar (maybe 6-10" long and about a cm in diameter). the long tube is the socket used to remove the other 5 plugs. the short tube is the socket for the plug near the firewall. and the little "bar" is bent at two points so that it can fit perfectly over the engine as you're removing or installing that plug near the firewall. hope this helps, ian

very possible...you never know =P

in situation 1...probably rear wheels slipping on wet surface due to too much gassing. i can break the rear wheels loose on a turn on dry pavement...and i have the vg33, i can only imagine the vq35's capabilities. in situation 2...listen to the others, wet pavement is not a condition to use 4wd...there is still too much traction between the tires and the road. and what caused the grinding noise is what many call "binding", which happens during the turn because the front tires are traversing on different turning radii. for example, for a left turn, the right tire is traversing on a larger radius than the left tire, requiring the right tire to rotate faster--which it can't since the drivetrain is locked an the axle links both right and left sides...this causes binding in the drivetrain.

yea i have drums in the rear too...don't know about the newer qx4's though.

ahhhhhh! when it's in its forward position, we thought that it was in neutral. we see how it is now =P thanks a bunch!

quick question...my cousin bought a '98 pathy, auto w/4wd. we've looked through the manual and are figuring out how to shift into 4hi. 4lo works as you just shift into it while stopped. but to shift into 4hi...we couldn't. the manual says that you can shift from 2hi to 4hi on the fly, but we can't even get the transfer case lever into 2hi to begin with. can anyone please chime in and shed some light on this for us? thanks a bunch.

yea i figured that "auto" mode would trigger the error light with the hubs unlocked because when it senses the friction, it would seem like there'd be none (maybe other pathy owners with auto can verify). But to have it triggered when in 2WD, is totally odd, and goes against what one would expect. But maybe you're right, maybe the computer still works even in 2wd.

man michie...i sure hope you figure this out. i want to get the warns when i get some springs, but naturally, i'm reluctant to get the hubs after hearing what you're going through. i can see your train of thought and i too am puzzled as to why...almost to the point where i want to get the hubs to see if the same thing will happen to my QX4. maybe it's different because we have the lever for 4hi/4lo AND a knob for 2wd, auto, and lock? i have no idea, that's the only difference i see between our 4wd system and a pathy.

there's also a thread about the QX4 vs Pathy in the R50 section: HERE

not much of a difference from the pathy...most are cosmetic. i'd say the only real mechanical difference is that the QX4 has both a t-case lever (4lo and 4hi) AND the shift on the fly knob (2wd, auto, 4wd lock). i bought my '97 last year for 8k flat, not bad since it has all of the features of a fully loaded SE...although i miss my celica...had to sell her to get the Q =P main cosmetic differences that i can think of are the grill, yellow fog lights, and running boards (which most here would replace with sliders anyways).

ok i know we're straying away from the original topic, but didn't want to start a new thread for a quick question/verification. i read the following from a thread in the wd section: i'm going to change my fuel filter while i'm under there and read in the FSM to depressurize the fuel line, but they did it with some electronic device in the FSM. i don't have that device, so i'm wondering if gotrek's above technique will work just as effectively?

damn....that thing DOES look brand new!!! those pics look like they came straight from a magazine ad from the wd days =P. Looks GREAT pathfound =D

nicee...i'm such a procrastinator...next weekend =X

haha sweet. man that 5th gear must've been teasing you all of this time =P

it's cheap on ebay. $6.99 but on CD though. HERE

yea i don't see much of a difference in mileage. i actually tried it last fall driving on two different trips to sacramento. one trip w/AC, one w/o. still ended up with a little under 1/4 tank when i got home. EDIT: I'm sure i did consume a little more gas on the trip with AC...i'm not going to argue with the laws of physics, but it was definitely negligable.

alright cool...i guess i didn't do it tight enough this time around hehe.

try mounting your full-size spare...see if the problem goes away. if it doesn't...maybe your problem is steering related, very possibly linked to the incident where you damaged your rim. just in case yenno? before you go off buying a rim that you didn't really need in the first place.

well, on the way home from work today, i heard this sound coming from the cargo area, sounded like i had a big container full of liquid swishing around in it. after parking in the driveway, i'm looking around the cargo area...nope, took out all of the soda, coolers and what not from the BBQ this weekend...nothing. looked under the rear and i noticed that the spare tire was lowered 3-5 inches from its storing position. i should note that i used the spare tire before i got my new tires. but when i loaded up the bad tire, it didn't come loose. anyways, my question is: Is there a point when turning the rod to raise up the spare so that it locks into place (like will i feel a *click* or something)? or do i just raise up the tire until the tire is tight against the underside of the pathy?

lmao venge! hey i paid a lot for those lessons thank you very much! =P thanks though, that helped a lot!

ahhhhhhhhhhh i see. so in my r50, the rear has springs and shocks, and shocks don't go inside the springs like struts do...which would be the front end. hopefully i have it right now