QuismO

sweet...thanks mz!

my brakes are starting to squeak...definitely wearing thin. i'm going to do the front brake pads this weekend, but how hard is it to replace the rear drum brakes? they're starting to squeak too. do i need any special tools? or should i just get those professionally done?

as the above have said, yes it is a double din and you don't need any sort of in dash kit to install an aftermarket double-din. i left the bose amps in, no biggy, normal listening volume on my pioneer deck is at level 4 though, quite low, which i like since it's less of a load on my deck's amp. bypassing the amp requires a little wire splicing and panel removal, the panel removal being the most PITA part. i put a single din pioneer and was quite simple. other parts you might need are a wire harness (unless you want to cut off the nissan harness and splice the wires), and the power antenna adapter as nissan's plug for the power ant isn't the standard one. both run for about $10-15 at bestbuy or circuit city.

yea, i asked the shop if they could change my water pump as well while they're in there, but he said that it's still good. at 140k, is that possible?

sweet! and i thought that i messed up big time by going so far over =P

you also have the option of tapping into the stereo acc/on wire, it should be red. i doubt that an auto dimming mirror with a compass will draw much current. or you can just plug the wire in with a fuse in the driver-side fuse box (the one near your left knee). but be sure that you pick a fuse that supplies power for something that's on when the key is in the "on" position, ie power windows, radio, fog/headlights, etc. just so you know your options =)

on my '97 QX4 i bought it with 132k miles...drove it for another 8k before i decided to check in with an infiniti dealer to find out if there have been any t-belt changes in her history...there weren't, so i changed it along with the rest of the belts/seals. they say change it every 60k or so, but hell, if my QX4 can last 140,000 miles w/o a change, i'm sure you can last another 600 =) but don't get pissed off at me if it does snap within the next 600 =P

many good points here. synthetic is great in my opinion. synthetics are of course man made, and were originally made to be used in jet engines as they needed a lubricant that wouldn't decompose or break down under strenuous situations, as well as being a whole lot cleaner. a car engine doesn't have the great demands of a jet engine, but is strenuous and hot enough to burn oil and create "sludge". all of my seals are good as good can be, so i use synthetic, to help fight sludge, and take advantage of the lubricating ability of synthetics. i figure that the good lubrication, and lack of sludge will let take a load off of my engine in the long run. i've only seen a difference of +1-1.5 MPG after switching to synthetic. although synthetics and "dino" oils are made to last over 3k miles nowadays, i'm still very religioius about changing oil and do it every 2.5k miles. the oil isn't as dark and thick as it is when it's run in the engine longer. cleaner is better in my eyes =P

the cheapest alpine ipod ready deck that i have seen is the CDE-9852. all sirius-ready kenwoods, and XM-radio-ready Pioneers are ipod-ready. all of these "ipod-ready" decks do require the ipod interface device, which will be hidden behind the dash and plugs into the xm-radio/sirius-radio/cd changer port in the back of the head unit. they generally cost around $100 US. This option allows you to use your deck to control your ipod while your ipod sits in the glove box or what not, and it also charges your ipod while it plays. Here is the ipod interface for Kenwood and here's the one for Pioneer the other option is to get a deck with "aux in", ok sound, but won't charge your ipod. i went with pioneer and it sounds great!

looks like a good deal to me...i'm going on 140k MILES!!! hehe i dont know what the maintenance interval on a cv axle is, but i'll definitely look into one of these on ebay in due time.

THANKS! I've always wondered what that line going down the middle of the windshield was. hehe it looks exactly like a rear defrost electrical strip...but didn't make sense as there was only one =P

ahhhhhh i think i have the replacements for those too...i'll go check =P

luker is ownage for that one =P

yea mz is right...2k idle is pretty high...i'd say 1.2-1.5k should be max for a cold idle

you're talking about the two near the rear view yea? near the digital compass...if so, the sylvania bulb # is 1895. if you find led or ultra white ones, i'd like to know where you found them too =P [edit] i saw this on ebay 1895 white LED dome light and this super white Xenon dome light

actually i have changed them...lemme see if i still have the spare in its case =P

looks pretty f'n strong!

AHAHAHAHAHA

all of the above said is correct...if you hear that grinding/clunking noise while turning (this is called "binding")...that means that there is too much traction between the road and your tires, thus no need for 4WD. keep it in 2WD or Auto if snow/ice is minimal, 4WD if ALL four tires are consistently in contact with snow/ice.

holy sh!t wheely i just read the other thread about your trip to hell and back...gaaaat f'n damn!!!! you have patience like no other!!! who knows what i would've done in that situation =P oh well, at least your baby is back in your hands =) and thank goodness that you had an s4 in the meantime hehehe.

i TOTALLY agree. FYI, sylvania makes 2 bulbs that look IDENTICAL to my front dome light bulb. after burning out my replacement bulbs within a week, i went back to kragen auto shop and found out that the first pair that i bought were rated at a lower wattage than the OEM bulbs. i bought the other kind that looked exactly like my dome light...and haven't had a problem since. maybe this is the issue that you're having? the one significant detail that can be noticed is that the lower wattage rated bulb should burn brighter than the higher wattage bulb when the same voltage and current goes through the bulbs. so if you notice that your new bulb is brighter, you might've made the same mistake i made

ahahaha...gross!

this should be a sticky =P

i'm pretty sure you could...are you talking about the roof rack that djdank has? he fit it onto his '98, so i don't see why it wouldn't fit on yours, especially since you're looking at a rack from the same year, just different trim...hopefully you can do it! =)

it costs around $45 for the filter...i did however find some places online selling it for $30. I was determined to find out if i had an in-cabin filter 'cause the air coming from my vents started to have a funny smell. there was some sort of mold growing on the filter which was causing the smell...maybe from my brother's spilled milk accident? i have no idea. nissandoms, yes the filter did make a difference, air flow was increased since the old filter was dirty as hell, and the smell did go away. the service center said that the filter should be changed every 50k miles or so. I'm going to change it everytime i change my timing belt now =P. hopefully it isn't just for the Q, all of the filter enclosures/parts have nissan/calsonic badges all over them, so i'll take my chances and say that they're in pathies as well. just pull out the glove box, and there'll be a white cylindrical plastic piece on the right side, and a black box (about 1 cubic foot) on the left, the filter is located in the black box. there are 3 screws and a clip that hold the top and bottom halves of the box together, and 2 larger screws that hold the bottom half to the firewall (located on the bottom of the box, far back). just so you know, you can actually see the black box jutting out a little under/behind the glove box, all w/o even pulling the glove box out, if you have this plastic black box, then you have an in cabin air filter =) hope this helps