Dowser

So i think it's settled then.... I'm pooched. Just took a look and yup, Sitting on the bumpstops. Looks like I finished it off on that trip. Ok... now as far as concerns go, I've been driving it around like this for 4 days haha Bad Idea? I have a lot of replacement parts to go in but I need to drive about 4 and half hours to get them and to my uncles garage. Seems to drive still alright but is this causing any MORE damage? To the Ball joints or whatever. Hate be driving down the highway and BLAMO the Wheel shoots up into the fender well, causing me to Roll or some stupid thing. Damn that was a fun trail. And Madhatter. ya... a LOT of big rocks. It was so loud that I'm suprised you didn't hear me hitting all of them from where you are. Has anyone else experienced that strange feeling of finding out that you F'd up you Rig but can't help but smile about it? I mean it's painful knowing I need to spend all this time and money into it now... But I just can't help myself from thinking the whole bloody thing is hilarious. What a great time to be laid off. Dowser

And lastly, A picture of the Passenger Side Lower Control Arm Mount from the Fornt view. Had to Drive my Rig up ontop of a rock just to get these bloody Photo's since the front is sagging down so much I cant squeeze under very easy anymore. That's all I took right now. Any other Photo's that might help a Diagnostic let me know. Dowser

This Picture is of the Lower Control Arm Mount from the back of the Drivers side.

Drivers Side T-Bar Adjuster

Passender Side T-Bar Adjuster. Not sure what these are supposed to look like as I've never looked at them before today. These ok?

Drivers side T-Bar which also looks bent. Notice the LCA mount. Looks pretty Beat up on this side.

Ok.. A few more Pictures. This one is the Passenger side T-Bar which looks bent to me for starters, also look at the LCA Mount. Now compare that one to the Drivers side mount and something is definetly wrong there too. Wonder if that is adding to the problem.

And now the Front... Which As I mentioned used to be as high as the rear.

This is the rear up close

Hey all. It's been a few days now since the Trail run and I've noticed some small and big changes in my Rig. Mainly that the Front Suspension is GONE. Not exactly sure what happen, but I have a few photo's and could use some insight. First off, The only thing my rig has got is a 3" Body Lift and 31" tires. As it turns out, I'm really not too sure what the guy did with this thing before I bought it but I can tell you this. The Front was level with the back when I bought it. Now It looks like a roadster with the back being much higher then the front. I'll post the pictures below but since I'm on Dial up, I'll need to post the photo's one at a time of my internet gets cut off... Sigh, Life in the sticks. Second, Some sort of electrical problem as every morning when I go to start it I have power inside cause the radio ,dash lights, and interior lights come on but when I go to Turn it over 1 of 2 things happens. 1, Sometimes Nothing at all which would suggest to me no spark from the plugs, but then there there are some mornings where I get the spark but it makes that starter sound but no firing. Perhaps that Romp through the Deep mudhole was not such a good Idea? [^] I'm thinking this must be that I got moisture or something by the plugs, sound reasonable? Well lets hear what you guys think might have happen and what you would do about it. Once again, had one hell of a blast in BobCaygen, but sadly my daily driver is not looking to good. :oops: Dowser

I understand that the Factory Roof Racks are crap but what makes them so? The Plastic Cross Bar Connectors? I know on the old models Racks the crossmembers are made of plastic or something real weak. On the newer Roof racks, 1996 and up, The bars themselves are made from Aluminum or Steel right? Down in the Parts for Sale section, I'm fully planning on buying that 2003 Factory Roof Rack for my 91, (yes I know it wont fit, but I'll make it) DJ Dank wants the Crossmembers, So I'm just going to buy the Rails and Damper. If I weld on Aluminum or Steel Crossmembers so that they cannot Be taken off, I think that will make the rack significantly stronger then the factory plastic crossmember attachments. In theory anyway. Decent enough to carry a Safari Rack, Spare 33" tire, shovel, axe, Highlift, and other Goodies.... I think. *gulp* Anything more I should know about those R50 style racks that might pose a strength problem? I'm pretty set on using the Nissan Rails and Damper as I think they would look real nice. And by the way, if your refering to the smaller little factory roof racks of the early model Pathfinders, I have one on mine and it sucks a$$. Do yourself a favor and save yourself some money too, Go straight to a Thule or Yakima unless you want to do something retarded like me. Dowser

Hey. Been looking at different options for Bull Bars and of course I'm finding Pathfinders Old or new options to be very limited. Here's the Question. In the Picture below, It show's 3 sets of Bars. 1. The Pathfinder Sahara bar 2. The Navara deluxe bull bar 3. The Navara deluxe winch bull bar http://www.arb.com.au/navara_pathfinder.htm Now obviously the Navara deluxe winch bull bar is desirable. The vehicles they show are also 96+ I'm thinking. Regardless of all that, I want the Navara deluxe winch bar on my 91 Pathfinder XE. Can it be done. Do the Bolt holes line up the same on Navara's and Pathfinders? Not even sure if the R50's bumper mounts are even remotely near the earlier version Pathy's. What can A guy do to get a nice looking Bar these days. Help me out here. Dowser

Hey Kevin, When you figure out how to get yours off let me know. The guy I bought mine from must have been screwing around with it cause now the bloody thing is completely pooched. :oops: Theres no way I'm getting the Bottom Screw off unless I try Dremeling a slot for a flat head but I wasn't about to try that cause with my luck.... well... Lets just say if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all. :furious: Let me know how you do it if you do. Dowser.

Just sifting through the forums and found this thread. In the Process right now of gathering the needed material for a 6" total. 3BL, 3SL. Now a couple of Questions. Body Lift was already installed and I picked up some, JGC Springs but the pictures on 88's site aren't coming up for me so Not exatly sure where to make the cuts. If anyone can PM me with them that would be great. I have some Calmini UCA's, Sway Away T-Bars, some new Moog Ball Joints, a set of 4 Rancho 9000x's, and 4 slightly used 33" x 12.50" x 15" Hercules AT Tires. (They aren't great but only $300.00 Can) The question's are: 1) Talking about it being a stiffer ride with T-Bars Cranked and new UCA's, will the new Rancho's suck some of that truck feel up? 2) I haven't got a clue what the Fabed E-Brake Extension should look like and as I said, a lot of pictures aren't coming up for me so if someone can PM me one of those. 3)If for whatever reason the UCA's start sqweaking as mentioned by a few of you Calmini owners, Any kind of Lube by the Bushing may stop this? 4) Concerning Steering components. If I pick up a new I&P Centerlink, Fab the Idler Arm and Pittman Arm for strength, and throw in a Rancho RS 5000 Steering Stabilizer and Take off the Sway Bars, will I need to upgrade any other Steering parts? This process is costing a Bloody Fortune and losing track of the Light at the end of the tunnel. Dowser

Just a thought. Seeing how the remanufactured VG30E costs $2900, if you decide to go this route, perhaps it may be in your best interest to look for a Whole Pathfinder. I bought my 91XE for $2800 Canadian and was ripped off, so you could easily find another Whole Rig for that much. That way incase things happen later you have another parts vehicle. Although I'm assuming you just bought that vehicle haha. Just my thoughts anyway. Dowser

That is really quite terrible news. Try and keep in mind that there is little anyone can do if someone is motivated that much to bring themselves harm. It is obviously a great loss for you, his family and friends. My condolenses. Dowser

Wealthiest? Not exactly. Highest standard of living? Yes. Consuming the most resourses? Not on your Life. Country to export the most resources to other Countries? Ratioly, Most definitely. Producing the most waste? Off by a long shot but definetly needs to be looked at more seriously considering almost everything purchased can be recycled. People in glass houses shouldn't throw stones? Depends on whether I know if no matter whats thrown at me will actually have a chance at breaking my house. In this case, *picks up some stones* I personaly do my very best to ruduce my share of waste. 90% of my waste goes to the curb as recycling and the 10% that is not is due to the fact that the Manufacturer was negligent in making a recyclable material for packaging. I'd say that probably the worst thing I do is drive this Pathfinder and even with that I make sure it's emissions are the best I can expect from a 91. I'm not trying to come off as a aggressive a$$hole and certainly not looking to make an enemy, but seriously, people need to at the very least recognize there is a problem and they may be able to help. That's all I ment. Dowser.

haha HAHAhaha HAHAHAHAHAHA HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! Ahem... Come on now children. -argue- We're all Pathfinders here. Now, I sport an Oldy but Goody like a lot of Off Roading Cats and of course theres lots of upgradeable options, But you have to respect the R50 owners as well. Not only for being intelligent enough to purchace a Pathfinder to begin with but taking a model not designed with REAL offroading in mind and MAKING it work with very little aftermarket options. The way I see it, they deserve some serious credit for that alone. Now... Back to the topic at hand... BUMPERS... I want one with optional Machine Gun Turrets and a FlameThrower. Can that be done too? Dowser

Now I already have a Big monster size steel bumper, BUT, I'm always on the look out for something better. Here's the thing though, If your gonna make em, Do it right man, and make em SOLID! I mean Indestructable. Just don't half ass it and use only half the bar leaving the back hollow like a lot of brands. :oops: I'd be willing to buy one for sure If it's made with a good Recessed Winch area with Solenoid and some Light Guards. And like always, if you need a test guinee pig, I could sport it for you and run into a bunch of sh!t. Rocks, Trees, Little Rice Burners that Cut me off on the Highway, Bank Vaults. you name it, I'll see if I can break it. And I think everyone here knows by now that if Dowser can't break it, then it's a good product. :contract: Can't wait to see the progress. Dowser

WOW! Read this from the beginning posts in 03 and just noticed the gas prices some of you fellow Canadians were stating. In the 50's HAHAHA MAaaaaan, those were the days. You could drive across canada with a 350 Camperized van and still make it fit the budget. :cool2: Can't get a freaking litre for less then a buck now. And I swear I actually SEE my fuel needle move when I drive and it's bloody well Never going in the right direction. :furious: Last I checked I was getting about 440-480kms from topped right up to Gas light fading On and Off. :idea: *Open's the Mr. Dress Up Trunk once again and pulls out the Robin Hood Tights * :idea: Looks like its time to break out the Always Trusty, Never Failing, Good Old Fashioned, Syphon Hose and start Stealing from the Rich and Giving to the Poor. Poor meaning Me of course. Dowser

THANK - YOU!!! :oops: Dowser

What he said, AND the fact that in my eyes you'd be an ass to trade a Cat Convertor which is LAW for very good reasons, like trying to reduce the amount of Environmental Impact the BILLIONS of vehicles running around the world has, all for a few extra horsies. Buddy, Global Warming is becoming a pretty SERIOUS problem incase you haven't been watching the news for like the last 15 years. Everyone needs to do their part if we want to at least slow the bleeding process. And in case you dont think that your little vehicle could make that much of a difference consider this. -study- Within the last 300 years,(5-6 generations) the start of the industrial age, We've managed to change the world from its rich, pristine, unaltered circle of life that has been funtioning perfectly for millions of years, into this global nightmare where Species go extinct every minute, Water is unsafe to drink, Air Quality becomes increasingly worse, and all of which will most likely never repair itself. So long as man lives that is. Now in todays times, most of the world's industries are past the Coal Burning Production stage and perhaps your not aware that 80% of Greenhouse Gases are produced by vehicles, particularily older vehicles WITHOUT Cat converters. Anyone that would rather get a few extra horsies in this way, PURPOSEFULLY, is a complete a total Environmental Terrorist and an Ass in all regards. :furious: No exscuses. so... At any rate, there's plenty of really good Companies that produce very good Cat's that can still get you some power without completely ignoring your OBLIGATION to the Environment . Sorry if the comes off as harsh, but someones got to stand up for Mother. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: Dowser.

Well, I'm still looking to get one for myself as well. But I'd be willing to buy about 12 of the DJ Dank. For the People that may end up joining in Future around our end here. Perhaps not worth it to make up only 12, but it's a start. Any others still wanting some? Add them to the list and lets get it rockin, otherwise, Damn. anyone got an extra to sell? sly Dowser

Just a reminder as mentioned in every other Headers Thread, If you go with this option, make sure to pick up the Oil Relocation kit. about 45-60 USD. The headers make it a real pain in the arse to change the oil filter in it's current location. As far as where to get it, look up Oil Relocation Kit in the forums search. I recall someone even having the Part number listed. The bought the new studs for mine but haven't replaced them yet. Those bloody things were expensive on their own. There's also a Post here about the newer studs and their Part Numbers. Good Luck Dowser *edit, fixed a typo and here are the Stud and Oil filter Part numbers.* Studs from Nissan Dealership, Part # 14065-V5004 Oil Relocation Kit from Summit, Part # PRM-10695

I'd be interested in Buying If someone can locate a Web Address. Aussie's? Mind Dialing that number 2 posts up and finding out if they have either a Web address or perhaps a Price if there is not one available? Could use the 15+ dollars in long Distance charges to help pay for Lights. Dowser