Dowser

Forgot to add that part. Yelled at him for that too, but he said he Cranked it. Low and behold I looked inside and it was cranked. Looks like that was not working either. Just pulled a vehicle with now way to stop that way, Unless it was the ol Fred Flintstone method. Dowser

I once Pulled a vehicle out of a mud hole that was no longer running and was blocking the mud hole. We put it in Neutral and a friend of mine got in to steer and what not. I pulled it out but with his momentum and no brakes since the vehicle was not running he ended up molesting my bumper. I got out and yelled at him say Why the F*#K didn't you stop? He yelled right back at me saying I F*#KIN Tried @$$HOLE, but it had no brakes! Needless to say was a funny day. Dowser

Yes, your truck is out of crack and refuses to run... Sorry, couldn't help it... LMAO That remindes me of a Band I know and Love named GWAR. In an old movie they made all of their machinery operated on Crack being shoveled into old coal burning engines. One of the Funniest things I ever saw. Sorry off topic but had to enlighten you all. Now... Back to the topic at hand. Dowser

LMAO man I step away from the PC for a few hours and BLAMO I miss a Calander Topic? Sheesh. you people work fast. I'll see what I can come up with Tomorrow. I vaguely remember having a Picture of her out in the woods posing with no shirt right by my truck... Sorry Rob but its true... I'll post it up for you boys tomorrow. Give you something to yan.... er think about. Dowser

Simon.... Your a good man. And I'm going to have to grace you with my Presence. (Simon--> :bow: :oops: <--Dowser) I came to this conclusion when I started thinking about where I actually purchased this Rig from. It was from a Demon Spawned Lowlife Redneck Bastard Child from Milton. *looks around at others in forum* I ment Redneck in a good way. Sorry if anyone takes offense. Anyway, So it would only seem natural that it go back to the Milton Area to get fixed right?... Right?.... Alright, ALRIGHT, ALRIGHT!!! Sigh.... Actually the real reason is cause I had no other offers and you were the only sucker that said sure. I would normally at this time give people a chance to back out of this situation but seeing how kind you are just really makes me want to take advantage of you the most I can so I wont be giving you the opportunity to say no. :contract: On a serious matter. I need to know a few important tid bits of information. 1) What kind of Poison do you prefer. Beer or Liquor and Brand. 2) What will you be hungry for on the day I come down. 3) When's a good time/day for you. 4) You'll have to PM me your Address. and most importantly 5) If you're not married, what color haired woman should I bring down to distract you while I Break all your tools. Dowser

Also, You might want to look at buying some replacement spindles for the new UCA's. I was under the impression for some reason that Calmini was going to supply me with some but I was wrong. At any rate, Mine were so brutally Rusted and chunked up, I couldn't even get them out of the old UCA's. We had to Torch Cut them out of the Old UCA's with hopes they didn't get clipped. I was real lucky, but after we got them out and I sand blasted them, I really wish I would have had replacements. Perhaps take a look at how much those would cost at your local Nissan Dealer. Might as well do it right if your doing it the first time. On another note, I'm not sure if Superlift UCA's come with Upper Ball Joints but if they Do or Don't make sure they are not some Cheepies without a Cotter Pin or Grease Fitting like Calmini's. That Pissed me off BIG TIME. Bought Preformance UCA's for a sh!t load of cash and they send me Rag Tag Upper Ball Joints to go with them. Your most likely Going to be changing the Ball joints when you switch over the UCA's so buy a decent Brand Like MOOG cause Ball joints are a costly repair job if your paying someone to do it. Change the Upper and Lower ball joints at the same time when doing the UCA change over. You'll most likely have to pull off the Hub, Brake Caliper and pull the Rotor off almost all the way to get the Lower Ball Joint off and the new one on. And for a final note, make sure when they are Screwing your New UCA's into the Frame mount that they DO NOT, i mean DO NOT!!! cross thread those holes or your in a world of hurt. Good luck and let us know what happens. Dowser

Thats the Way! Right on Man. I work with a lot of ESL (English as a Second Language) people as I rent to them while they go to Niagara College. When they first arrive it's the worst. Nobody knows what the hell anybody's saying. I find that Real Obnoxiously BIG Great Hand jestures go the distance if this happens again. Real nice of you to lend a hand to a fellow Pathy. Now if it was a Land Cruiser perhaps you would have left him to make one hell of a Coral Reef. :X Dowser

If I can ever get access to some Jack stands and a Jack while up in this area I'm going to try and take the Adjuster Nut out of the arm and pop the t-bars so that they are even for one, and two, perhaps move them one spline less so I can make sure they end up in the adjuster arm without over cranking them. As far as the Rear Coils are concrened, Ya, I made spacers out of a Mud Flap. Couldn't find a 1/4 inch though so used a smaller standard Truck size. Now as far as the positioning of those go, I put the spacers in first then the seats. then of course the coils on the seats. I could see that the seats held the coils a certain way so I put the coils to their correct spots on the Spring seat. BUT, do the coils and Spring seats together need to be positioned in a certain way under the truck? I never noticed while I was under there. And besides that Holding that Spring Compresser and spring while under my truck wasn't the easiest for moving them around. The Spring compresser only gave me so much lateral movement before hitting one thing or another and once I took the Spring Extractor off the spring, it sat in there pretty snug. Maybe Because I never cut off the Pig tail, I just bent it out. Something else I forgot to mention as well was When I was getting ready to lower the rear Diff, I went to unplug the Diff Breather Hose and noticed it wasn't attached. Turns out it Broke off leaving the nut still in the Diff but with no end. I can get it off thats not a problem but I'm wondering if I went to BobCaygen like that? LMAO Man I hope not. I need to Get in there and clean that all out as well. Also not that I care too much but always wondered why my ABS light was on all the time. Turns out its been Cut off at the Rear Diff. Looks like I'll never be hooking that up haha. Sigh. The more I'm thinking about this the more I'm thinking I wont be able to avoid taking it to a shop and get charged the $66.00 an hour. for probably at least a few hours. Hell. I don't even have Jack stands myself. Come to think of it, I don't even have a Rachet up here Either. :oops: Precise Looks like 3" will do it. Should make it level. Perhaps you can through some Dimensions in Pen or whatever so I can see whats what. Dowser. Once again. If your in the Ontario area and even have some jack stands and a jack let me know. I'll buy ya a case of Beer or whatever so you can watch me hurt myself. And if I actually end up liking you and not just using you for your Jack stands I'll throw in Lunch too.

Can Always pull a carrier off one in the Wrecking Yard. That or buy a roof rack with Safari Basket and Latch it up there. Other then that...... Tie it to a rope and drag it behind you while you drive around. Dowser

Sigh. 88. Perfect information, but I didn't read this until it was far to late. Let me first state how incrediably SCARY it is driving at highway speeds without a Panhard rod on. It was pretty Dreadful. 450 kms of fear based driving in a vehicle with no Panhard Rod, 1 whell completely out of balance, and No Alignment after the New UCA's, T-Bars, and Ball joints. It was freaking aweful. I don't even want to drive it anymore till its fixed. And speaking of fixed, it just never seems to end. I spent 12 hours replacing the T-Bars, T-Bar Adjuster arms, UCA's, Ball Joints and Shocks. And let me be the First to say, This was the worst job known to man. Not only were my T-Bar adjusts bend, So was the Freaking Crossbar the are attached too. It was bent to hell. I couldn't even get the new ones on properly. I had to connect the snapring of the Passenger Side Adjuster Arm to where the dustboot was suppost to go. The Original T-Bars were murder and had to be Torched off to begin with due to Serious Seizing. Also, Heres a mental Note for anyone reading the Chilton's Manual about replacing Lower Ball joints. They are full of sh!t. It's not as easy as they say. They forget to add that you cant slip it out due to the Ball joint hitting the CV boot and unless you take the Brakes, Hub and Rotor's off, nothing is going in or out. Finally, With everything changed, and 12 hours of Cursing. My Uncle who was extremely Pissed off at me for bringing this job to his shop stated that he never wants to see my Pathfinder again for anything. Not even Topping up the Air in my tires. That being said, I'm still in trouble. Late in the day, He put the T-bars in and I told him that the Adjuster arms have got to be at the same level. Being overtired and grumpy at this point I think he may have misjudged and put one side 1 spline too much. The reason I say this is Now that I have Cranked the hell out of my Front end and tucked them inside, My front is higher then the Rear! LMAO. I need to change this Pronto cause every corner of my vehicle sits at a different height. All of these measurements are to the Body not to the Fender Flares. Driver Side Front is 39.50" Passenger Side Front 40" Drivers Side Rear 38.75 Passenger Side Rear 38" Now how does my Rear with Coils change from side to side by 3/4 inch? And Lastly, without a shop to work in or ANY tools what so ever, Anyone in Ontario think they can help me get the T-Bar Situation Straightened out? I can't get an Alignment until this is all fixed up first. Heres a Pic of the Final Result so far. Dowser. Oh, and 88 and Precise one. Have you got that actual Dimensions to those Panhard Rod Mount Extensions? I need to pay someone to make me up one. Hell If anyone on here is interested I'll pay you well for it. At this point I could care less how much its gonna cost me. I just want it done. Let me know if Either of you are interested or anyone else for that matter.

The Rig has got a 3" BL as well so that's most likely the Culprit. I'm Still not too sure how I'm going to fix this issue. Perhaps making a New Drilled hole in the Main Mount area to the right. I only need to come over about 1/2 inch. I tried a ton of different things to get that thing on. I tried Raising the Diff, Lowering, Losening the shocks, Even tried Using a Prybar to force the bloody thing in there. I can manage to get the Threads into the Joint but the Bolt Flares out at the back of it and I can't get that part on. I tried a few whacks with a BFG too but I don't want to Mash the threads against the inside wall. So pretty much all of the above to no avail. Nobody else has had this problem with a 3" BL and JGC springs? With those puny 31" tires I have on there right now, My Back end sits at 38" to the fender flare and 39" to the body. Only other thing I can think of is trying to find another Panhard Rod thats about 1/2 " longer or Drill next mount holes. What else you got? 2 days left before I have to drive it another 5 hours home and I'd love to get it right before I go. One last thing. Is the Panhard Not considered the rear Sway Bar? Cause I thought it was. And If so, How dangerous could it really be to just leave it off? Dowser

Damn. I bid on the last 2 on Ebay as well. Looks like you Beat me too it you Rat. Oh well. Looks like I'll have to keep plugging away in hopes of Finding one too. Dowser

And Finally. The End Result of the HOTROD. Man... look at how much higher the back is haha. Sunday is the All about the Front. Cant wait.

And this is what it looked like when I put it all back together and Cleaned it all up. Although the Nice BLUE panhard Rod I painted was unable to be in the photo.

Passenger side.

This is the replacement Driverside Coils and shocks.

The New Coils after a bit of Paint.

The Old Shocks vs the new. Hmmmmm Should I keep the old ones. Perhaps I could sell them on EBAY?

Just an Update. Well Today I went to the Garage and arrived there at 11:00 am. Now, Todays mission was to tackle the Rear Springs, and Rear shocks. Wouldn't you know I was in for a surprise. I took a few pictures of the days events and I do mean DAY. I didn't get out of there until 9:00pm. 10 hour Freaking day cause I'm a useless Mechanic. Took off my shocks to find them Beaten Rusted and absolutely Useless. Doing nothing in the way of Shock absorbing. Next, when I managed to actually GET to the Springs, I found out that one of the Stock Nissan ones were actually Broken. haha. I'm sure My BobCaygen Outing had nothing to do with that. Took me like an hour to cut out those freaking Spring Seats out of a 1/4" Mudflap. Was a terrible experience and one I hope never to do again. After all was said and done, Only 1 minor problem. I can no longer get the Panhard Rod back on. It's about 1/2 an inch to short now. No matter How I try to get it on. Raise the back, Lower the back, Nothing. Soooo, No Panhard rod for me I guess. The good news of course is that I've Gained another 3"inches in the back which I'm thinking had to do with the fact I didn't Cut the JGC Coils. I heat the End of it (against EVERYONE in the Shop. All of which Told me I'd be Screwing with their Spring Rate.) then Bent it out to the 4" mark to follow the rest of the Coil. Although Thats not the Easiest task in itself for it never bends how you want it too. At any rate, Here's a few Pictures of the progress. Dowser This is what it looked like While I was taking everything out. Pretty Disgusting.

It Absolutely has something to do with it. I'm Posative. Really.... Hold on a sec. *Passes Joint, Mushrooms, Acid, and some Pills with Scuff Plates drawn on them to a Friend* Your up man, and don't waste it like that time you poured that bag of dope down the toil... Oh ya, Forgot I was online.. Ahem... Now as I was saying... It's Totally Linked man. Totally. Dowser

Ya, I saw that one from ARB. But I like the one they have for the Navara way more. That was why I thought I'd ask about if it would line up for the pathy. $750 is pretty high priced for sure. I can see how it could cost that much. Not in materials thats for sure. Maybe I'll try and Clone one but throw a couple other modifications on it. Ilke that Machine Gun Turret and Flame Thrower I was talking about. Maybe I'll throw a bunch of 2" Spikes lining the whole front for those Road Rage days. Have to see I guess. I'll doodle some pictures up and see what I can come up with. Maybe I'll bless you all with my chicken scratch later too so you can all see my handy work. Dowser

Thanks So much for those Pictures guys. I'll make sure these next set are tucked away nice and tight. It's always so much better when you see what they are supposed to look like when attempting a repair. Now as far as the JGC coils are concerned... Is it just as simple as comparing them to the Old Stock Pathy Coils then heating and Bending the Pig Tail to match? Thinking I may have to do my suspension job in 2 parts. The Clamini UCA's and Torsion bars on the first trip since I haven't got the springs modified and powder coated yet. Sigh. Thanks again for the Pics all and I'll keep you posted later when I'm stuggling in the shop. Dowser

Sigh..... now... I know your new blood for me... but that isn't gonna stop me from Tearing into you. *cracks finger* First of all, since you obviously know absolutely nothing about me, my intentions or my lifestyle it is easy to think you may be actually speaking intelligently... But upon further investigation you would have soon realized that perhaps you should have just kept your mouth shut. Let me first explain to you why your comments are just plain Useless. 1) this is an around town to take the dogs to the park, get groceries, and Trail Beast rig. For virtually everything else I drive a bought new 2002 Highly fuel economical and Efficient Cavalier 4 banger with no options... not even AC. 2) I make up for my beast having an old engine and 31" tires by making sure the emissions constantly kept clean and good. I drive it considerably less then a daily driver and when I do I try and stay under the 100 km mark to make sure I'm not Wasting a ton of fuel for nothing. Further, I also Fully intend on having 2 sets of wheels for this vehicle, smaller street tires no bigger then what came with factory and a Pair of Mudders for when I want to wheel. I'd also like to add that my Rant was about someone INTENTIONALLY removing a Cat for a few horsies that even I with my lack of Automotive knowledge, know to be pointless due the the Nissan Engines being undersized for the vehicle weight. Now obviously when going off on an earth preserving kick I was merely stating that we must all answer the question "where does it end." Meaning, Do I or do I not drive a car at all? Do I or do I not support he large chain companies manufacturing products in unenvironmental ways, Do I or do I not.. etc. Myself, I am comfortable knowing that I make as many INTENTIONAL contributions to environmental causes as I can and do as Little damage as I can. Now So if you feel the need to INTENTIONALLY bring the battle to yourself perhaps you should find out a little more research before you end up looking like an idiot, cause you can guarantee I'll be around to catch you for it. Oh and thats just an observation. Dowser.

Thank you, and lets seem em. This Chiltons isn't good for sh!t sometimes. All I want to see is how the Adjusters are supposed to look as a final product. Remeber I'm installing Clamini UCA's and obviously the T-Bars, so I want to Crank those Indexs to the max I can allow. And lastly, I asked in another topic if someone could send me some images of what the JGC Springs are supposed to look like After they have been Heated and Bent for maximum lift. Not sure why I can't view 88's images but nothing comes up for me. I'm aware the info at the Damaged Reality site talks about cutting off the piggy back, but later 88 mentioned I might get a little more lift if I heat them and bend them since I'll have a Tire Carrier, Roof Rack, and a ton of Garbage in the back. It also looks Like We'll be moving to Alberta in January so I need to Boogie and get all this crap done in the next few months while my Uncles Garage is handy. Thanks for the help all. Dowser

One other Piece of useless knowledge. I used to work for Future Shop in Metrotown, Burnaby, B.C. many years ago, and although Future Shop used to be a Canadian Company, it is currently OWNED by the same people that own Best Buy and Circut City. When all your doing is competing against your other company, boy you really cant lose financially. And $700 bucks. Ouch. thats way more then I'd be willing to spend. Canadian made and Priced or not, I'd sooner go to the local raw materials plant, Get myself some HD Steel and figure out a way to make my own. And I have absolutely NO welding experience. Dowser