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Balmer

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Everything posted by Balmer

  1. And the progress continues... Pics of the long arm 5-link rear: http://nissantrailriders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=708&p=9961#p9961
  2. Ya, it's a better way to go. I'm finishing off my long arm rear 5-link this week and I'll be doing a bracket to raise the trac bar at the axle. I can't figure out how to post pics on here (which is why my build thread is dormant) so I'll provide a link to a different forum with my build after the bracket is done.
  3. I picked up my axle housing, ring & pinion, 3rd member & bearings, Aussie locker, steering rods & joints, knuckles and caliper mounts tonight! Now all I need to complete my seriously upgraded D44 is axle bearings and 5:13 R&P. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow. I hope to have the axle assembled, minus the gears, by Christmas. Then it's on to fabbing up some radius arms, I'm pretty sure it's the cheapest way to go and it gives me an excuse to buy a welder and a few metal tools. I'd like to shake the rust off the ol' fabbing skills anyway.
  4. I have to agree that the D30 is a WAY under-rated axle. I've seen guys run hard with 35"s on them for several seasons with no breakage (open diff). As noted, the D44 is a better choice, but if a guy had a D30 sitting in front of him it would potentially be an axle worth building.
  5. I'll check the price on the R.C. arms, but I'm thinking I'll just build my own. I think I can do a better job than what I've seen offered by most aftermaket companies and for less $$$. Check out my SAS thread for more details.
  6. Great advice in this thread everyone! I love the ideas that include enviro-friendly options. Often these solutions work best as well as being a responsible choice.
  7. SAS underway!!!

  8. Ok, so I guess we can post pics anymore. If anyone wants to check out images of my build they can be found at: http://www.funinbc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101726
  9. I've decided to build my own XJ style radius arms. I agree that an actual link suspension would be better, but the axle I have is set up to run in an XJ so I think it's the best compramize between performance and cost. Anyone know how to post pics to the new site??? I don't see an attachments thingy.
  10. Agreed! I wheel my rig pretty damn hard and I'm just pulling all my IFS out for my SAS project. I've found that virtually EVERY steering component is bent, buckled and broken. The steering on these rigs is weak at best. Repace everything (with upgraded parts if you plan on abusing it again) and get an alignment or you're wasting your time and money.
  11. Ha... that's too funny! "The customer should be told that the burping noise is normal and is caused by too much fuel in the system..." what a finish, I love it!
  12. Ya, clearly it's a better arm, and there are other, custom arms available too. The thing is, any aftermarket radius arm set-up I've found since starting this thread is between $600.00 - $700.00 CAD. For that kind of cash I think I'd whole whole hog and do a custom 3 link. Since I'm going cheap for now I'm going to stick with the F-150's personally. Have you checked into other arms? How much longer is the XJ long arm, generally speaking? Do you think the geometry is better over the stock Ford arms?
  13. Well written letter. If it doesn't get results Calmini has bigger problems than shoddy manufacturing.
  14. Ya, I know that mounting the upper link to the lower effectively makes it a radius arm. I just figured the XJ set-up might be the best possible radius arm to go with. I have a set of radius arms from a '79 F-150 that will work. I'm trying to keep things as cheap as is reasonable. Lots of guys have done radius arm suspensions on 'Finders without too many issues. I know that ultimately, linked is the way to go and I would love to do that but I fear the cost involved. I've checked into the Poly Performance universal link kits - that's what I'd love to hook up but $$$$! Even just Johnny joints alone are very expensive, so I'm not sure I'd save much by fabbing my own link set-up. If you have a program I could play with I would be very appreciative! I plan on doing a long arm version of the 5 link rear, but it's a pretty cheap one - you can get the link from my SAS thread - so it would be great for that! What do you think, are there any other approaches I could take with a link system that would save money?
  15. How's things coming with the 5:38 gear sets for the H233b? I'd love to grab a set along with cro-mo axles by early spring!!!
  16. Hey everyone, this is basically a break away from my SAS thread. I'm getting a built waggy D44 front for my SAS and it has brackets welded on for an XJ long arm set-up already. I'm thinking if I can make it work without spending a fortune I'd rather go that way than radius arms. Has anyone done this mod yet? Heard of it being done? I'm planning on using frame brackets rather than adapting the XJ cross member since the 'Finder is full frame. Hopefully buying the arms only will save me some $$$ over buying the whole kit. Any input is appreciated!
  17. Just over a grand CAD. Needs hubs n' rotors.
  18. ***Reality check*** Ok, so funds are not what I'd hoped what they would be at this point and my time is a whole lot more limited than I really wanted. That being the case, I've had to curtail my SAS project somewhat. Although my rig won't be as capable as I'd wished, the project will be more in line with what many of you are doing or plan to do, so that's a bonus in itself. I'm likely to get more feedback given the scope of my build now and I think others will get more relevant info from the thread so what the hell! Here's the new deal: - I'm keeping my engine, trans, and T-case stock - The rear axle (H233b, with disk brakes) is being re-geared - I have yet to commit to a ratio but I'm thinking 5:14's or 5:38's - I'll likely upgrade to cro-mo rear shafts once SteeevO start making them - Rear Detroit locker - Rear long-arm 5-link set-up see: http://nissannut.com/projects/long_arm/ - Front D44 from a Wagoneer (comes with Aussie locker, brand new cro-mo shafts, super joints and GM high steer knuckles) - The front axle has 4:10's so it will have to be re-geared to match the rear - DOM steering upgrade for SAS see http://nissannut.com/projects/DOM_Steering_SAS/ - I was going to go with an F-150 radius arm set-up (I already have the arms) but the axle I'm getting already has the brackets for XJ links welded on, so if I can afford it I'll go with that set-up instead It's late and I'm tired so I've probably forgotten a bunch of stuff but I'll add more later. Has anyone else adapted an XJ long-arm kit??? Any input on this project is appreciated!
  19. Buddy... The way things look "in the cab" have NOTHING to do with what's being discussed here. Look UNDER your vehicle. The transfer case front drive shaft output is on the DRIVER'S side. Therefore, any axle you put in the front for a SAS must be a DRIVER'S side drop ie. the differential housing itself must be on the driver's side of the vehicle. Your comment about the "drive shaft crossing" is right, that's what would happen if you tried to install an axle with the diff on the wrong side... which WOULD NOT WORK!!! the T-case output must match the axle, so if you install an axle with a passenger side drop you have to swap to a T-case that ALSO has a passenger side output. get it?
  20. I hear ya man. I bend tie rods connstantly and consequently I'm going through my TSL's much quicker than I would like... not cheap. My solution - budjet SAS! Even the mildest SAS is better, by far, than our IFS as long as you don't wheel much harder than you already do and keep your tire size to 35" or less. There are upgraded steering components but ultimately SAS is the way to go. Those that are selling there "upgraded" steering suff are going to SAS. http://skagit.craigslist.org/pts/1377459354.html See for yourself.
  21. Ok, so let's talk Waggy axles... What's the most desireable year/model and why? Are there different widths, hub choices, gearing, etc. depending on year? What about Grand wagoneer Vs. wagoneer - what's the difference in axles? I'm not rich so I'm looking for the best swap to leave as stock as possible. Any help is appreciated, this project is happening asap!
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