Balmer

I would love to commit to a set, but I'm just starting my SAS so I wouldn't have $$$ till winter.

You rock! My 'Finder is off the road for SAS as of the other day when I destroyed my steering AGAIN!!! Point being, I've got lots of time to make the fix (my SAS wont be done till early spring). Thanks again man!

Thanks for all your research Indigent! This is the kind of info I was hoping for!!!

Wicked job Jeremy! You're way beyond me when it comes to wrenchin'.

Yup. Mine's on 33's and I have NO BODY LIFT AT ALL, just JGC springs and cranked torsions. I did have to smash the sh!t out of the front of the rocker panel with a sledge hammer to stop contact though! Sheet metal is so easy to mod.

Again... I'm not trying to offend anyone who loves their E-AT option. I just want to know how to by-pass it.

I can do that without adverse effects? Is it easy to figure out what's what?

Ya, maybe one day...'til then I'll just live with it. There's no emissions testing in Hope so I'm lucky in that regard.

So what do you think the issue is? the valve itself, the solenoid or the box? Is there an inherant problem with the box - I'm assuming so since you say the JY ones are no better? Do you think that there's a way to repair it with a modded part or completely by-pass it. I'm thinking that the surging itself may be caused by the valve fluctuating between open and closed or partially open to partially closed. If this is the case could the valve not be permanently closed to prevent the condition by allowing the engine to run a bit rich at Idle?

That's the Air...something Valve right? I heard someone mention something like it a long time ago and they said it was a huge PITA to swap... or it was really pricey??? There was some roadblock to fixing the issue. '87Pathy, what has stopped you from doing the repair to your rig?

"I'm not a fan of that power mode, to me it shifts faster normally. When in power mode it over revs, it's no longer making power, just revving. Each to their own though" My sentiments exactly.

Mine doesn't go back into "auto" mode unless I manually throw the switch, it just stays in "power" mode regardless of how I drive it.

Cool man, you rock... I hope you come up with something.

I don't like it because my rig is a 90% dedicated trail rig. THE "POWER" OPTION SUCKS OFF-ROAD!!! Some may debate this but I find it too be a total PITA to have my trans shifting to an unrealisticly low gear when the power I need to smoothly get over rocks is found in the gear I'm in. I could go on and on about the situations in which this option is a disadvantage, but if you've wheeled your rig HARD in a variety of situations, I have a hard time believing that you've found the "power" option to be helpfull. I can see it on the highway and other road driving conditions but not for the kind of wheelin' I do! I love having an auto since it is way better in mud and snow as well as other terrain due to the lack of a "pause" in shifting as with a standard. In "auto" position the trans shifts just how I like it. We can debate the merrits (or lack thereof) of this system, but the fact is I DON"T WANT IT! So, again I ask... does anyone know how to by-pass this option.

Thanks for the advice guys. Since, in my opinion, the throtle CAN'T be punched too hard, is there an easy by-pass? I would be much happier without this option despite everyone's high opinion of it.

Curious thread. My 'Finder surges/pulses between 750- 950 rpm at idle once it's warmed up. I wonder if the issue could be the same despite happening at different engine speeds?

My E-AT switch keeps coming on (power position) by itself. I find this somewhat confusing. It's a rocker switch - not a momentary switch, . The switch physically stays in the "auto" position, but often when I'm starting off from a light or even a slow rolling speed, the light comes on indicating that the E-AT has switched to "power" position. The light is accurate - the trans. DOES switch into power mode - which I can't stand. Would this be caused by the switch itself or another part of the E-AT system. Can I simply wire the switch directly so that it MUST stay in the auto position? Is there another way to by-pass the "power" option on the auto trans?

Do a sas then you can just torch everything out! After working on my IFS I can't wait to burn it out of there this fall!

My exhaust actually vibrates against the floorboards on climbs due to me smashing it on rocks so many times... . My solution will be a body lift this fall.

Calmini, Rugged Rocks...

What's the best place to get a decent C/L? Anyone know anywhere in southern BC? How much are they?

Stupid torsion bar set-up is back in - no problems with the install. It was much easier than I had figured it would be. I cranked them up an additional inch so that the truck sits perfectly level now. Good enough for a couple of months, then the SAS finally begins in earnest!

So after a month long absence, not much has changed. Things have been challenging lately but getting back on track. I'm hoping to pick up my driveline and start prepping it by mid august. After checking out the poly performance kit I'm thinking that it would be the best way to go, but it will definately slow my progress due to cost. I'm going to save for it, but if I can figure out a cheap n' easy way to do a radius arm set up on my D60 I might do it as an intermediate step. Damn I'm sick of IFS!!!