Filthy Luker

On the outside of the alty housing, there is a small hole right over where the brushes are. You push the brushes in, then put something like a metal rod (i use a small drill bit usually) to hold the brushes from popping out. You put the rotor back in, take the metal rod out of the hole and the brushes will spring back into place.

Have you called around? Costco? .... ugh... local tire shops? It's surprising what a bit of "ok man.. what can you do for ME... ???" talk can do on the phone.

12mm thread washers... eye-ball that sucker and yer good. Like I said. Unless you just drove out of the factory or had every component replaced it all depends on how you parked the junk.

First the beers... For the accuracy (actually the I HATE THE NISSAN IFS CRAP FACTOR!)... Then you take a nylon rope and wrap it around the truck such as it goes right in the middle of the tires. You then adjust the tie rods to make all the tires touch the rope in two spots and be EVEN. This is where booze comes in. EVEN is a variable directly proportional to the beer consumed. The reality is that Nissan IFS is so crappy that unless you drove right outta the factory or had every component of the front end replaced, home alignment is just as good as a pro shop.

You buy one... use it and return it... WRONG SIZE You gotta know someone with a compressor!

I've been doing driveway alignment for years now... Piece of string and a 6-pack of beers. Works great.

a really good impact gun will take it off in 10 seconds.

Grab a HPD44, retube it and make it work with Heep shafts and outers. Weld up the H233B so the only real cost will be regearing. Or... If you can, just grab a Ford 9"/HPD44 combo and ditch the Nissan axles. Rear disc conversions are easy and gears will be cheap. Weld the Ford 9" slap a locker in the front and you're golden. Don't get hell bent on coils. I've seen some insane flexing leaf setups and they're cheap and easy to make work really nice. Just this weekend I booted around in friends buggy... Hydro is NICE .... holy crap is it ever nice... Except his is full hydro steer, with no hard links between steering column and the wheels. Pure fluid. It's spooky at first but turning in a fully welded front/rear buggy on full width axles and 37"s was ridiculously easy. It had a turning radius of a bus tho.

thatguy... i am drinking for you tonight! people have no clue the stuff we do for our pathies.

If you're really that bent on saving money on gas, just get a 1000 dollar corolla or a swift or something.

There is a very short 90 degree bend hose that's just above the thermostat and under the distributor. It's very hidden and you can really see it when you take the accessory belts off and the bracket that holds the idler pulley. I had to deal with a mysterious leak recently on Nissie's WD21 and it turned out to be that little hose.

I got my CV boots outta Canadian Tire which is basicaly an all purpose hardware/automotive/household superstore here in Cold Beer Drinking Canada. Have you actually called any places like NAPA? The easiest way of doing this would be to undo the upper balljoint from upper a-arm or unbolt the a-arm from the frame. If that doesn't give you enough room to take the halfshaft out, undo the lower balljoint from the lower control arm as well. I found that to take the halfshafts off is less than an hour. It's the taking the CVs apart, cleaning them and regreasing and then drunkenly putting them back together takes a bit more time. EDIT: sweet lord man... can you make your sig any longer?

And as soon as you hit a trail, Hitachi and Nissan parts go flying everywhere in a beatuifully majestic shower of metal and oil.

No there isn't. Even if you could get 8+ inches of lift on IFS, what would you do with it? 35" or larger tires? They'd tear apart the front end so fast you'd be shopping for a D44 in a week.

Read this: http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/projects/pathfinder.php PS... auto or manual?

Yea you need to bleed the entire system once water gets into it.

Make yer own NACA ducts sly http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_Duct Or go to a junkyard and find a first gen. Toyota MR2. The side vents and the engine cover (all vented) might come useful.

Get a boost gauge, and crank it 2-3 psi. Nothing more. You should be alright without anything added. If it was me I wouldn't touch it tho. You bought a truck not a race car.

Don't you mean 265/75R16? That would convert to 32" floatation size (metric is that first sizing convention). I am currently running that size on 16x7" wheels. You don't want anything larger than 33"s on an IFS Nissan. Forget about 35"s until you can SAS it.

My buddy has 33x12.5" boggers on his X... he's doing alright with them. I am seriously contemplating getting them for my truck next. 33x10.5r16.

The correct answers are: Don't jump with Nissan IFS You must hate your truck Just how much did you crank yer t-bars? Ever hear of downtravel? SAS sly

Jeep dudes around here seem to like 'em. If it was me I'd just run Boggers.

here's some pics from my slider boot maintenance i did recently... hopefully it helps: http://madmudders.net/mods/fubar_brakes/

What's a "slide pin" if you don't mind me asking? :confused:

Dude... don't mess with stock lighting too much. It's illegal and unsafe. Here's a good link that's really worth while of a careful read to see what to do to actually improve lighting instead of making it seem brighter: http://danielsternlighting.com/