unccpathfinder

Let me try to remember to check the FSM to see if it has a procedure...but I do know the JY i used to work at had 3 oil pumps fail or not prime after a swap

Dont feel bad...i accidently found my 4L b/c the sticker on the back of the pass sun visor didnt get the point across and I figured the Tcase was fubared...when goofing around one day I accidently pulled it into N and pushed down and it poped into what was a "new" gear to me and from then on out I could get it in and out of gear...

how bad is the exhaust leak? mine is pretty bad and I noticed it started giving me some performance issues and threw a light a couple times but by the time I got home it was off and I brushed it off

I've got a universal Bosch that I need to sale b/c I cannot use it...its still new in the box...I'll have to put my hands on it but if your interested send me a PM and we can work it out...

its a great feeling isnt it...mine ran like poop after my swap b/c the timing was way the hell off and I swore I messed up the TB but it was just the dizzy Congrats Yea I'll try to remember to give you a shout...I got so much stuff going on while I'm there but if I get the truck done and I'm driving it I should remember...

I just wanted to say thanks to all the most for (most of the time) not being asshats...I have seen some complaints but nothing too major...it seems like everytime I post on pirate4x4 my posts get deleted and its pretty frustrating...This last one was b/c I did not put an exact price on the axle I said make offers and the mod jumped me for it and I told him to adjust their terms of use to say monetary value... anywho I'm glad the folks around here are nice and easy to deal with...out of all my boards pirate is the only one i've ever had problems with...and I've had some pretty rough posts here that I was for sure going to get in trouble for but didn't so I can't be that big of a PITA. This bud is for you mods!

while driving down the road look to your significant other and tell them to get to work... yea I spent about $200 on ones for my 95...too bad they weren't the problem...but at least thats another plus on the selling side...

Yea I thought with the headers the filter was like 3x easier to get to...

I've got 2 subs for sale and 1 amp one is an mtx the other is an alpine with a frosgate amp which I had in my 87 and it was more than plenty for me...just enough to add a thump to my rock/country but no house shaker boomer music but then again I had it turned down to what I wanted b/c I hate too much bass and I was running some 8" MTX's off of it too

a bump moved a wire so its no longer in a short? or if you played with the flasher units maybe it reseated them (possibly some corrosion or something?)

hmm so you have to do some tearing down for an engine thats been pulled for a while then...

you did lift all 4 wheels off the ground right?...that could yield some bad results if not...

I had a 75 trailduster that would plow through/over anything including small trees but it was a PITA if you got it in a tight spot...short bed reg cab chevy is pretty capable and a buddy of mine had something like an early 90's blazer (not the lil one but not the k5) that did pretty good he had a 3" body and I think 33's on it...and finally another buddy had a k5 diesel that seemed to refuse to get stuck I have driven a reg cab tacoma with street tires offroad and it seemed to handle pretty good...a lil stiffer ride than the pathy IMO but I have been eying those for a while b/c I really need a truck to throw crap in the back but then again I'd rather get an old cummins and pull the 87 around here and there and get some good use out of her...

I think he was saying the headlights and corner lights work but the tail/brake lights do not... pull the steering column cover off and check out the wires to see if they're pinched/broken whatever...

or trim the wood back to the contour of the speaker and attach the speaker to the board from the back side and then the board to the sheet metal...so the wood would be flush with the edge of the speaker and the grills should still fit right...

hang upside down in the passenger seat and fight with the rear most fastener 1st then the other 2 are not too bad to pull...I pulled that lil pillar cover on the RH side to give me move work room...while your in there u may want to pull out that resistor and clean the trash thats packed around it too out...

or a rubber flap... pull the 3 screws to pull the blower motor/fan out and clean it out...and ti'll go away..

hmm my post showed up 2 times...so i just removed it (sorta)...so the image wasn't there twice

???? I just clicked here at work and it went to to the flowable silicone?...I wanan see the guy in the orange vest... is the image you should have seen with the pricing info...but hey at least ya got a good laugh...

I have used some flowable silicone to fix problems like that on other cars (not mine) and it stopped the leaks...my gf's old intergra was wrecked and it leaked water everywhere...where is the water piling up...the drains for the cowls can get clogged and could possibly have rust around the base of the (water keeper outter) and it could just drain into the heater and seep out there... I'll come with more later...gotta go eat... http://www.acehardware.com/sm-permatex-and...pi-1419004.html is what I used but got it from advanced...and they aint lyin its got a pretty low viscosity and will flow everywhere...

I know how that is... Like MZ said...if you dont hear a click about 2-3 feet after putting it in 4wd then the hubs are probably not engaging...if the cv's are turning while its under power then the hubs are not locking and thats a pretty easy fix... if not then check the linkage for the TC...I would suspect its the hubs and depending on how long its been sitting it could be that the grease is dried out and keeping them from actuating or something like that

looks normal to me... but pulling out the FSM to see...post pix in a lil while... well...after looking and googling its 1 assembly...but I'm pretty sure that its just pressed onto the harmonic balancer... I would carefully drill and retap those holes...get the next size larger bolts that will fit in your puller still and get a good quality bolt with fine threads (make sure the tap is fine threads) is the image i found and its like $250 so I would try everything else B4 continuing in case it will destroy the pulley...

there is a light on the dash for when cruise is on but not when it is set (I think thats the case but I could be recalling wrong)...I dont think the light would be anything more than an indicator...

you dont have to lift it up to undercoat it either...if your using rattle canned rubber coating like I did put on some jeans...a long sleeve shirt some gloves and cover your head and put on some safety glasses roll up under it and get it all cleaned up and go to town...

to set the preload on the bearings correctly you will need to buy/make a spindle locknut tool: