unccpathfinder

They should I think the flare is different on the HB though...check the 2 door forums theres a post in there on the interchangeability of body parts...

were the Tbars ever replaced? I think I remember a topic where this was happening and someone used HB Tbars? someone should be able to correct me if I'm wrong but I'd maybe just try and verify the length of the bars and check that none of the splines are stripped

might as well throw out there an exhaust heat shield rattling either on the manifolds or down at the cat...but it didnt really sound like that to me

1st things 1st...go balance the tires...I chased a wicked shake in my 95 for about 6 months and changed abunch of stuff including wheel bearings, ball joints, spindles...and it was simply a tire 12oz out of balance...rotate the tires and if all the other tires are good and you are good at feeling things the shake will come from the back but still influence the front some but not much in the steeringwheel....but a bent wheel can also do the same as everyone above said... I'd also check for loose wheel bearings b/c thats easy to do...jack up and put hands at 12 and 6 oclock position and push back and forth if you get play the bearings are worn/loose

didn't sound like anything out of the ordinary to me...Possibly that lil plastic piece under the fan shroud is loose and occasionally slaps around?

yea I'd maybe flush it backwards but i'd hate to take the chance of clogging up the engine or radiator if something comes dislodged from the HC... when I flushed my system after the swap all kinds of nasty things came out of the HC

don't brake at the last minuet to keep the heat low in them on my WD I always use the NAPA Gold pads and I cant remember which of their rotors but I havent ever warped any...

I still get a kick out of their "2007 emissions" where they were blowing flames out the pipes during regen cycles...If I were nissan though I'd wait and design for 2010 anyways...

About 2 years ago I read where they're were talks of that (this was prior to the Daimler/Chrysler split) and Nissan had backed out...maybe they are reconsidering...Cummins IIRC isn't a Daimler or Chrysler company...Chrysler just used the Cummins engine. I also had read where Nissan would not bring a Diesel truck to the US b/c of the EPA BS... Most of that was a little over a year ago but the "plan" for Chrysler was to have an independent wealthy person buy it out and create a high end auto out of them and get of the "American junk cheap cars" Now that Chrysler and diamler have split I haven't heard too much insight on the situation b/c I worked for a Diamler company when the pot was being stirred The powerstroke is now going down hill...Last I heard Ford was taking the engine over from International and they were doing away with the 7.2L which I think is one of the best powerstrokes out there... An HD Nissan would be awesome since technology is pushing towards diesel which in turn will turn to an alternative fuel source, I think it would be good to have a diesel nissan on the market; esp if they beat toyota to it

There was a post about this about a month ago...I've been MIA so I don't know if it has been resolved or not but its most likely a loose plug wire or something like that...check your plugs its possible that you sucked water in and maybe fowled a plug or something...I'd search for that posts and look at all the advice there...

I've never heard of "low heat" in a Pathy...its one of the hottest heaters i've ever been in...I skimmed the topic but would venture to say either the heater core is crammed full of trash (corrosion/rust and whatever else) I would try a coolant flush and possibly disconnect the heater core inlet/outlet and run a hose through that to see if its clogged... next I'd check thermostat as stated above...and finally does the heat get better if the RPMS are higher? if so this could show either a blockage in the HC or a weak WP.

did the same...but sprayed PB on them then hit them with a 12 point 1/2" impact

calipers can get "stuck" or can get leaks so thats probably what he meant...uhh search wheelmanLS1...I think he had a topic on it but I ended up just going to his house and helping him out with it...the job is not too bad if you mechanically inclined...changing the caliper will literally take maybe 30 mins if you include bleeding time...the rotors can take probably 2+hrs for a 1st go at it... you will need to remove the spindle bolts that attach to the rotor...prior to pulling the spindle lock nut and need to pull the caliper and its bracketry as well as the locking hubs...

good luck...and yea I have a pair of snap-on "grippers" that are awesome for the long plug wires we have b/c I have done just what you said and pulled out the black parts and the metal grabber stayed on the plug ruining my wires...

hey ghost to make it more manageable and easy to open if you ever host it somewhere I would separate all the sections out into different .pdf's thats how nissan breaks theirs out

i got tired of reading how the effff do you join the gang...

in NC I think it was 2" outside the fender well and never had issues...and knew people that ran them well outside the wells (like 6" or so) some places require mud flaps so you dont kick rocks up but the best way is to check into local laws and regs...

haha mine loves the 87 and is mad b/c its still not running up to par...but she's still not big on the 95 coming out here...

I know richard dropped his fuel pump and the sending unit quit working...fuel pump worked great but the sending unit quit...so if you weren't careful with it i'd check that out too along with the grounding issue.. I know when I worked on a chevy it was easier to pop out the 8 bolts on the bed and slide it off to get to the fuel pump rather than dropping the tank

haha well didn't mean to insult ya if I did...I was confused on waht dizzy was the 1st time I saw it shortened like that... BTW hope the finance is nicer than the gf...she'd be mad at me...I could hear it now "what do you mean your truck isn't running right?" "you hit a puddle and it started acting up what a piece of @!*%"

I dont really have any that are clear...but what I would do with your time frame... pull the distributor cap (make sure not to disconnect any wires) and make sure its dry under there...then make sure all the plug wires are seated on the cap and plugs...pull the air filter out and see if its dry if its soaked run inside and dry it out real quick with a blow dryer or just go with it it'll dry with time ...if the filter is soaked you could try cranking the truck with it out to see if the idle is better but remember your running the risk of sucking debris into the engine...I really think you're fine its just got some wetness somewhere it doesnt like it...

most of the connectors are grey...the dizzy cap is the distributor cap (its where all your spark plug wires connect to and it also connect to the coil) I'm looking for pictures now...

the connectors are all over the engine bay...

how far do you have to drive? depending on the distance if it runs drive it...don't pull out in front of anyone and take it easy and you should be alright until you can check it out tomorrow

moisutre under the dizzy cap would be possible...when I used to go wheeling when I was 16 several times I ingested mud into the intake and I'm sure the dizzy cap got soaked and it would run like ass for about 20 mins or so then by the time I got halfway home she was running fine doh just read the last of JJ's post...so yea just check all of that stuff...and you may have a soaked airfilter which restricts air in