unccpathfinder

well if you have an auto trans your going to want to make that an MT since it pulls data from the ECU...im not sure on the other wiring...I guess you could disconnect the ECU and turn the ignition key to on and see if all the other functions still work...but I have a feeling your going to have problems... 4x4parts may be a better source for swap information...

not quite sure if i follow 100% but ASAIK you can swap the engines and tranny's together but you have to also figure out the wiring or swap harnesses as well..you may want to check local DMV laws on this as well prior to doing the work...and i just saw your in CA so that could be kinda tricky and thats y my 87 with the 95 swapped in still has NC plates...just simply b/c I dont want to deal with their BS check out the swaps section on 4x4parts I think you may find more info there

hmm now if it drove out of the sea and still kept on truckin thats sweet...I've never seen the english channel but I believe that would be a hellofa ride... I've seen a suzuki do that down at the beach where I used to go... he got really really drunk and drove out to a sandbar about 100 yards out in the atlantic at one point and time the whole truck was almost submerged but he made it there and back 2 times...saw it for sale about a month later (imagine it was starting to rust pretty bad)

I hope you are replacing all of the studs and not just the ones that broke...do you have the manifold loose down at the bottom (Y pipe) if not I would try that...

its fine as long as you secure the strap/chain and dont snatch and make sure its strictly around the axle housing...without a hitch theres not a whole lot of anything to tie to when the nose is burried in mud and no hitch on the back...I def wouldnt tie around any of the front suspension... i've towed many of trucks/cars out without tie points and the axle was the only other option and I havent had anything break...granted it may be ill advised but with care damage can be avoided... I was speaking in a recovery situation...now that I reread the thread...is this towing like towing a trailer? if so then get a hitch...there isnt really any other "safe" way to tow

carefully around the axle making sure not to hit any brake lines and no hard snatching...

powdered graphite sometimes helps but try this...if its mostly on cold mornings give a nice lil whack with your hand right above the lock when its being stubborn and it should work...my 87 does the same thing on the pass side and the drivers started it and noticed if you give it a whack it unlocks...i've actually had problems with not being able to pull up the lock from the inside and this remidies that too for me i'd check to see if the hinges may be bent and try to make adjustments it may be that as you said the striker should be adjusted to allow it to close smoothly i havent noticed a ton of cold air coming in but i'd guess if the door isnt seating well its letting more air in and I know theres some plastic on the inside to help keep airflow down you may want to pull the door panel and see if maybe its moved or been removed previously during speaker installs

sweet...yea i think that was my mistake...no way to get the glass off with the doors off and windows up and truck scrapped ( i guess I could have hooked up a 12V power supply and lowered the window) so I had to undo all the linkages to get access to those 2 bolts on the glass B4 removing it....awesome deal man glad you got it figured out

ohh man thats a big pain...I tore down all 4 doors on a pathy and I'm glad I didn't have to put it back together... I think you would need to remove all of the internals for the window controls and then once that stuff is out (think its like 5 or 6 10mm bolts) you can manually pull the window down and then pull the track/molding out and then pull the glass up through the top... There may be an easier way but thats the only way I could get the glass to come out of the doors B4 taking them to the scrap yard without of course busting the glass

crawl in through the back and remove the panel then open the glass and theres a J shapped bar that if you i think pull up on it will unlock the door and you can then use the handle to open it...on my 87 the locks suck bad so I could always open the glass and left the rear hatch panel off and would just reach in an pop that lever to unlock it...that panel may be a PITA to get off wit the door shut but I think it can be done sometimes you can go back and forth between the galss nad lock on mine and eventually the lock will unlock but it takes like 20 or so cycles and sometimes it never works...just be careful and dont break the key off in there...also you may want to try it with the hatch glass open to find the bar I'm speaking of its like right in the middle and the way i found it was by just gently pulling pushing on all of the members in there until i found the right one

I always run the napa golds and havent ever had any problems...IMHO slotted and drill rotors with high falutin' pads is a waste of money on the pathy...theres nothing you really are going to be doing to overheat the rotors and warp them...they're an expendable and if your going to be playing in the mud its just more things to have to clean and worry about... I can understand where if you planned on having a fast car and needing to get the heat out of the rotors but I just dont see it on a 4wd application unless your running a drag with something like 35's on it which is unsafe in itself

that would really suck...esp if he would have tracked a lil bit more to the left b/c the family jewels wouldnt be as valuable...out of all the mud holes i've tromped through I never thought of a tree coming through the firewall...

Theres a 4x4 pickup with the z24 in Fayetteville NC right now for $1200...saw it in the paper today

take them to any print shop and they should have a scanner...I know Witts in Tehachapi where I work has scanned drawings for me that were 36"x48" plus and burned them onto a CD for less than $10 for multiple sheets

down close to the starter...the way the ear was on the cable (i think the PO messed up the alignment) but it was covered with oil and grease from the PS pump and I think as I drove water got between the cable/frame and oil and grease and froze to complete the circuit

its a huge PITA...i had mine rub through on the frame rail and melt a battery....it sucked b/c i was in the middle of a winter storm and had to walk like a mile back the gf's dorm to find a ride to get a new battery...

Holy CHIT thats expensive...ive got the FA and the rear carrier out of a 95 its the 4.6 gears...I wish I could just get $50 out of both of mine and call it good...too bad I'm in CA now...

yea you can use the mechinisms from the inside...I've got an extra handle I believe...i'd have to check and see but if you want it shoot me a PM and say $8 including shipping...I'll have to see what hardware/linkages if any that I still have...

I really couldnt tell a big difference between my 87 and 95...maybe a mpg or so but nothing drastic...the only drastic change has been the cost of gas...

I wouldnt use the JB weld on the plastic part...use 60 second epoxy and it will work for a while but it will progressivly get worse...when you replace the rad get a modine its all metal... just dont put a screwdriver through it like I did...that voids the warranty....I patched over my several hairline cracks and they held for about a year...then where the plastic is crimped to the HX started cracking and I said screw it and got a new modine b/c I didnt want to risk a catastrophic failure at the worst possible time...

i'll be up for the trip when I come up to raleigh if you dont have it fixed by then...mines a MT but it should have the same pick up...check the codes and see whats up....maybe that'll let you get it fixed B4 i get home.

awesome...I think I may have the same issue going on with mine...I made it across town (10 miles or so) loaded down (started our move tonight) but my temp gauge has quit working and I was well under power...so hopefully I can check it out here soon after we get settled in the new house...but glad to hear you got it up and running

thats prob right..I always get my recollections backwards...

assume your talking about the "cowl vents" and yea you can use some nutplates and screws or something like that... or sheet metal clips (like what hold the fender flares to the fenders and put screws through those) serach around I had a thread after one of them was stolen...search cowl vents or something like taht... theres a lot of ideas in that thread

yea I know there is a year change that goes from a 5 bolt configureation to a 6 bolt I think the earlier models were 6 and later 5...b/c I was going to replace them from a 95 and keep the 87s for spares and doh it was different...luckly it didnt cost me anything for the CVs