unccpathfinder

possibility that the fuel pickup isnt at the bottom of the tank so after 5 gallons you really only picked up maybe 3/4 of a gallon? the only suggestion I could make is fill it up to the cut off of the pump drive it 100 miles then top it off again and find your mileage

my 95 won't sell for more than 2k so I refuse to sell it...it has some cosmetic (some dings and oxidation on the hood) and minor mechanical problems (MT syncro but still is strong) I really think its who wants it...I paid $4500 for my 95 2 years ago which was over the KBB but I needed a vehicle and I got it from my cousin who needed the $ so I didn't mind paying over cost for it...but I refuse to sell it for less than $3500 so now its a matter of getting it to CA

almost 100% sure that bolts to the cat and runs up to the a pipe on taht connects for CA emissions... that then connects to this tube shown on this engine: they welded mine to my cat the at the last exhaust shop so I have just capped it up in the engine bay...other than that I dont think you need it unless you ahve to pass CA emissions and it doesnt show up on your "emission diagram" under the hood...I know in NC they would look for it b/c it was "emissions" and on the diagram

I took mine loose put a think layer of silicone on all the mating surfaces tightened it down scrapped off the overflow after it cured and noone ever knew...and it stopped leaking

it can be done in 1 day (18 or so hrs of straight work) with help and you and the help have a pretty good work habit and understanding of what you're doing

Got some research done today...I'm going to have to compression check it along with some other things but its not firing on at least one cylinder and running way rich...I absorbed the moisture on a rag at the exhaust outlet...smelled like gas and burned like gas so I have either a bent valve or no spark in 1 or more cylinders...I've had some issues with this dizzy right after wheelmans wreck so I'm going to run a comp check then start checking the plug wires and plugs

So we were going over to the neighbors house last night for a lil shin dig with a buncha hikers that are stepping off tomorrow AM for the 1st leg of their "pacific ridge hike" they all did the Appalachian trail last year (from Georgia to Maine) which is crazy cuze its over 2000miles...any how so I decide to drive the 87 as I do about once amonth to keep her happy...well I'm looking in the mirror and see all kinds of wonderful smoke and it was running like complete ass which I haven't fully investigated but I believe I was burning oil and coolant so I can only keep the fingers crossed for a head gasket...I we ended up walking home last night so the truck is still at his house and I havent gotten to investigate but I reckon tomorrow AM i'll be checking the fluids to see if I've got mixing and then doing a compression check... This is frustrating but I guess it'll give me another 6 months- a year or more worth of intermittent work...I really need to get the 95 here but the GF is just not having it...On top of that my work may be closing down b/c my boss is an idiot and overshot his budget on the last project by more than $300K so tension has been high there and I left thurs at 8:30AM and not returning till monday b/c of his attitude...I really need someone to give me an interview from the 20 or so jobs I just applied too on thrus and fri...

if you dont have the O2 then it will run either lean or rich...depending on where he spayed the cleaner it could affect the MAF and it may need to be cleaned

I think the wheel could easily survive a 6' drop...it just depends on the amount of meat the tires have on them (if you have low profiles hell no) if you have like 35's or something like that yea sure i'd put $ on that it would survive if aired properly to not break the bead and not low enough for all the air to go up top and the wheel essentially hit the ground granted if you drop the pathy 6ft on its stock IFS your going to probably have some serious problems

well the tricky part to the wiring is the interface between the ECU and the TCU...I'm sure they have different pinouts so it may be a matter of getting a manufacturing dwg for each ECU and see which pins do what function and create a modified harness... I would suspect that the manual to auto conversion would be about 10X more complicated than the opposite unless your an electrical guru that has mechanical abilities... but I assume most of these older trucks with the auto have a "mechanical" means of shifting IE distributor says teh engine RPM is X so shift which may be pretty straight fwd but I don't really know how all of that works...transmissions are one of those grey areas for me..esp the autos

I think 88 read that backwards or at least I dont recall hearing it...its a bit more complicated tahn the auto to manual but it would just be a matter of figuring up the wiring to the ECU and TCU...nothings impossible

yep thats true...my 87 didn't have the boot anymor but my 95 did...teh bad thing about it is if theres a leak above it the boot fills up with oil and I thought it was it leaking b/c of the volume of oil that was in the boot but it wasnt

I don't know if its like the old WD21's but I'm sure its still a VG engine...I'd check valve covers b/c they tend to loosen up and it could just be a bad oil leak and it doesnt have to stain the driveway it can blow back on the undercarriage...my 95 was going through about 1-2 qts every 3k and thats all it was and it wasn't leaving any oil spots anywhere just dripping down and blowing back on the exhaust pipe (some burned off there) the rest just kinda soaked into the dirt/mud dried on the chassis... so I'd suggest just having someone you trust here stateside give it a quick look over for ya just to make sure its not leaking...

clip the speaker in the engine compartment or the power supply to the alarm...just makes ure the locks still work

I know the redlight camera's in NC were run by a private company and if you got a ticket you didnt have to pay it b/c there were no "legal" ways to make you pay...and when I moved from there to here in CA they actually stopped the vans that took speed pictures and the redlight camera's b/c it was "unjust" or something like that...the best I could say is get a radar detector...if you start getting buzzes then you probably know theres one near by and slow down...or have a plate swapper actuator so the plate turns face down or flips behind the bumper or has a cover that goes over it... I'd be careful with messing with the plates...I had a teacher in HS that got drunk and drove all the time and spray painted his plate white (you cant see nothing if its all the same color) but they popped him for defacing state property or some crap

Most people I know would take their trailer to an "auto" parking lot and unload it there and put a lock (one with the short bar so it's a lot harder to cut) and leave it there if they were going to be there for a good amount of time and a side note does your motorhome happen to have a Freightliner chassis under it? Just curious b/c I used to work at Freightliner Custom Chassis and worked on the B2 schoolbus with is another chassis that comes out of the plant there and got to check out some of the things on our RV chassis' but never got to work on them except for design reviews on 2007 emissions

Yea check with him...I cant remember what year the wiring harness is but it should be close...and he has the FSM too for a reasonable price. Good luck

yea what yozsi said...other than that I think the manual says to pull the front driveshaft if you "have" to tow it on all 4 wheels...I think your much better off towing on a 4 wheel off the ground trailer...it saves the tires on the vehicle and wear on your drivetrain...and probably some other things in there as well

got my 87 pathy at 16 and its still with me (24 now) and I've picked up a 95...it was very dependable and only broke 2 times due to my negligence but kept on kicking...gas mileage isnt great and now that I'm driving a car I miss my truck every min of it (my 95 is still back east and its the only 1 i could take out on a cruise right now)

yes it can be done...get the 94 engine and swap over the intake from the 88... I have a 95 engine, dash, wiring harness in my 87 but havent had time in the last year or so to finish the swap as I find more and more things I need to swap over to work flawlessly...right now I need a VSS and I think everything ill be good...other than that it cranks and drives for now but I just go locally to cycle the tranny and TC until I get it completely right...I've got worries on the way I laid the harness in so I will prob pull the dash back out and reroute it correctly instead of my rush job b4 I make it completely road worthy...theres a topic just search my name if you want to read my experiences...(theres 1 here and 4x4parts.com)

hmm well my time was streached out over a couple months but I"ve got to pull it again I'm worried about some of my routings but I dont know when I'm going to get to it. I'd say pulling the dash will take 2 hrs tops thats if you remove all the hvac and everything...be careful with the fasteners up top at the windshield you ahve to remove the defrost vents to get to the screws...remove the steering column cover dash bezzle and cluster and lower dash and glovebox...then the driver side vent and wires...tehn the top part of the dash lifts out pretty much IIRC...fi you dont touch any of the hvac stuff then going back together is only like 3 or 4 hrs I'd say with a snag or 2... do you have a wriing diagram? that would help you to know where you are trying to follow this wire...I assume you wont need to pull the dash to follow it or you could check its final location esp if its in the OEM harness...hit up GhostPath? i think it was that scanned the schematics in with a donation of the harness and trace it on paper then trace it in the vehicle...

looks good

I wouldnt say that...it could be possible that the bearings in the tensioner tighten up... could it be possible that the engine mounts are loose? it also sounds to me like it could be a shaft walking and it is hitting a closeout (possibly cam shafts loosened up and are slamming back and forth in their seats? thats a pretty strange noise...do you have power steering fluid? it also sounds like it could be an airvoid in a pump or loose fan walking on its shaft or a bad bearing in the waterpump? just throwing ideas out there but I think your going to have to listen closely and possibly start pulling accessory belts off to see if the noise goes away and if so then pinpoint it from there...just dont stick your head down tehre and get it caught in something cuze that would hurt doesnt sound like lifters to me at all

was it on the loom that goes into the engine compartment...if so you may want to check it on that side B4 pulling the dash...

I'm going to have to come back and read this again all the way through...but pulling the dash is fairly easy but a PITA...you can remove the lower half pretty easily...what I dont get is why the stereo hot wire wasnt fused...do you have this from the battery? if so you need to put an inline fuse... to remove the glovebox theres 2 pins and you just push those guys in it falls down and you can remove the hinges then remove the back panel to the glovebox and should be able to see the harness there... but yea if it was fused then I dont think you should have too much to worry about but it really sounds like it wasnt...