unccpathfinder

Harry Chest posted this over in another section:

are you talking about the grease seal on the CV side of the spindle? just making sure you're not talking about the rear axle inner seal... if it is the front inner seal you can search for wheel bearing replacements or look in the how-to section I'm sure theres something there...but pretty much you remove the hubs, remove the caliper, remove spindle locknut and bearing, remove the rotor/spindle assembly then you can replace the seals and install in reverse order... while your at it search up spindle lock nut tool and see how you can make your own instead of purchasing the expensive nissan one or use the punch/hammer routine but i think that is a bad way to do it IMO

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...75&hl=radio here's my install...try searching radio and you'll find some more http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...48&hl=radio Antenna INSTL: the only issue with mounting it there is you have to open the tire carrier to open the glass...it would have mounted on the hinge on that little plate but i have a major personal issue with drilling visible holes and knew if it came to selling it someone may not want a CB mount (or its remaining holes) in the tire carrier visible so if I get my 95 here to CA thats where its mount is going to move to

that's pretty much what the 60 second epoxy does...it heats up to melt the plastic then rebonds

thats a lot of work just to get an engine running and driving...3 days max(with a day down for parts mishandling) work on rebuilding the heads granted the pistions/heads aren't trashed which I highly doubt...of course with a respectable amount of mechanical skill

the search engine sucks now b/c you can't search any words less than 3 characters so LPG isn't searchable... with NG or LPG do you have to plan your fill ups strategically? or do most gas stations in the US have propane refill stations...my boss had never heard of a gas station with kerosene or propane when I moved out here to CA b/c he kept on buying new cylinders and canned kerosene instead of refilling

the 3" is cheaper... and probably to pay for their new fancy smancy graphics that I think look like ass...

sorry to hear that...if you dont want to ever worry about it again (unless you do what I did and slip and put a screwdriver right through it within less than a year) get a modine...its all metal...

pull timing belt cover and/or distributor cap and turn it over...if the rotor doesnt turn then the belt is broken but its probably just as easy to pull the cover and see if the belt is there...if not tear it down set #1 to TDC and install the new belt...then run a compression test to see which cylinders are dead...pending the results of that pull the heads and inspect the pistons to make sure they're not cracked...then replace all of the valves and inspect the heads but they're pretty much bullet proof just like the bottom end of these VG's I broke a belt in my 87 and bent 3 valves...you'll most likely bend exhaust valves...after that you should be good to go...

anyone know if they have had any adverse effects on oil pressure from the longer run? Clean instl btw msavides...how frequently do you inspect the hoses? I'd probably try to get some cushion P-clips or butterfly clamps to tie them off with instead of the tie wraps

if you add a skid plate doesnt that make the easy access invalid...I think i'd keep it close to the bay myself

theres a big section on tires in product review...you'll get all kinds of opinions...i dont like BFG's and prefer dunlop mudrovers...b/c of grip, road noise and wear and their performance on road/off road, in the rain/snow and dry pavement...

you do have a nice new shiny tow strap but yea I woulda shown them the other truck when they were there even if they couldn't do anything about it so it was in the report and then if anything esle were to happen at your new residence they're automatically a suspect...get you some cheap security camera's and start videoing that crap if it happens again but I"ve seen that people who retaliate usually get the worst punishment b/c they have no reason to do it to you but it's pretty obvious they did but you have all the reasons in the world to do something to them..it sucks

my flowmaster sounded good to me...I have heard some folks complain of the resonance at highway speeds but my music always drowned that out by a long shot...I think it's a 40 but not 100% sure on that...straight headers is loud but unhealthy for the engine/performance

I'm pretty confused with this whole header in the way thing...B4 I dropped the engine with thorleys the oil filter was a PITA...now with the thorleys it's easy as pie to get to...but most people run an oil filter relocation kit... you got a pic? auto or manual set of headers and/or truck? i've got a manual 87 with an auto set of headers on a 95 engine and theres a ton of room...

I'm not sure what it entails but I think that would be a limit of clearance between the pistion and valves (i may be way off base here) ? and if the tolerance is 1 tooth on the TB I think that would limit your ability to change that...also you would have to change it based on the # of teeth per cam pulley (ie if theres 36 teeth you can adjust by 10 deg increments)?

i'd be careful with any retaliation b/c you'll be suspect #1...loosening lug nuts could be bad if a wreck was caused b/c of it and he died b/c if they figured it out they could get you for 1st deg manslaughter or something like that which would be bad

they should have confiscated his keys b/c I bet they could have found the metal/paint embedded in the soft key material... the question is what'd you do to piss your neighbor off? you got loud boom boom music or what?

yea I didn't know they continued the D21 after 95 I thought it switched over to the frontier in 96 but I guess it was 98 if you want to take about an hr and a half drive....go to pull apart...htey have a 95 and a 97...the 97 may still have parts b/c it was dropped on the lot a month ago.. http://www.pullapart.com/ do an inventory search according to AC the 86.5-97 HB hoods are all interchangeable and the D21 hoods are interchangeable with the WD21 hoods so I would think that the 97 D21 hood would fit the WD21

the last year for the wd21 was 95 so 96-97 won't work the 87-95 wd21 hoods should be interchangeable and I'm pretty sure the HB hood will fit too (i want to get one and put on my 87 b.c I think it looks much better) but I'm not sure what year they stopped the D21 but yea the whole front clip should interchange from the HB to the pathy with the exception of the grill which can be done if you get the sealed beam headlights got to a JY and measure the hoods check their connection points and see if it'll work

doh for some reason I was thinking crank angle sensor...sorry bout that...

believe its in the distributor...under the rotor but I could be mistaken...

google up some fluid dynamics and you can check out the philosophy for yourself...I'm @ work right now and have been running calcs all morning and don't feel like thinking about it right now...plus fluids isn't one of my strong points as far as memorizing equations so I'd need to look up some stuff but googling that should give you insight typically if you increase your cross sectional area but dont increase your velocity your volumetric flowrate will decrease so I guess you could back out the fluid velocity from changes in pressure by modding the regulator (assume it regulates pressure) just a thought also remember if you increase the pressure you may experience leaks since the seals/hoses may not be designed for the pressure increase but I doubt thats the case but you may notice that leaks will develop in the steering gear box

hmm check the wheel bearings I would find it hard to believe that you have been 2 wheels on opposite sides of the truck....theres an easy check for wheel bearings where you grab the wheel at the 12 oclock position and the 6 oclock position and apply a couple (pushing force on the top and pulling on the bottom) and vice versa...if you get play (wobbling) then the bearings need to be checked (possibly replaced) and reset to the proper preload if the lugs weren't tightened down you would see this problem as well since the wheels are lug centering

In theory yea I think you could cause a rotor to be out of balance with a sever out of balance wheel/tire...but I think it would have to be so bad that you wouldn't be able to drive it over 50 mph (i'm thinking of these old IFS ford/chevy trucks i see on the highway where the front wheel is almost hopping off the ground b/c its so out of whack such that it would wear one side of the rotor more in reality though I don't think this would happen b/c the relationship between the spindle, wheel and rotor is fairly rigid and the pads would wear a lot faster than the rotor to have a significant impact