unccpathfinder

depends on how you obtain the parts and do the work...you could spend 7k or you could spend a couple hundred $$s

I rode the bus to work yesterday...turned a half hour commute into 2 hours but I got a @!*% ton of entertainment and watching ganglands on history paid off... in the afternoon it only takes an hour to get home and its $4 for the day instead of 2 gallons of gas at $4+ a gallon...

sweet...that sounds like lots of fun...i miss working on my truck(s)...the 87 is so far neglected now I need to just rip it apart all over again and go through it to make sure everything is right...I'm hoping to get the 95 here within 2 months buy a welder and build a homebrew tube bender and start making some gear for the trucks and i'd really like to get a mill/lathe combo (something like a smithy) or if i just got a mill i'd go for a bridgeport

cool...yea man i understand completely on a) forgetting to take pictures in the middle of it (i usually start off with lots of pix then 4 hours later i'm like @!*% didn't take any pix...) and after a long days work on the truck pissing iwth the computer drops off the priority list... good luck and mind that front axle if you have to drop it the stitches leave scars if it falls on you...

you did check the oil to make sure you didnt split the pan and it was just the lifters knocking like hell correct? just throwing it out there...did you use a scope to see if you could pinpoint where the noise was coming from?

yea those bumpstops fall off pretty commonly...both of my trucks still ahve them but i'd say 50% of the trucks at the JY were missing the drivers side...

no...all of the pathfinder frame is welded on pretty good and the sway bar wouldnt have seen most of a "pothole" jar that would be carried through the springs shocks and other linkages...i've chopped up a solid frame with no surface rust on the outside and the inside was horrible...just saying make sure you check it good at all points b/c it may look solid but theres a small band all the way around the frame thats bad and one day crack it breaks...

if there's rust like that there i bet theres rust like that on the inside of the frame too...start probing it with a screwdriver/hammer and see if you find any weak spots...better to be safe than sorry...

so what is it doing exactly?... I kindda still kick myself in the ass for not doing what I was going to do...i changed plugs and got trash in #1 which welded to the top of the piston and started knocking...i was convinced it was a bearing so I pulled it and what I think I should have done was ground off that piece of metal and slapped the head back on and I think my knocking would have went away but instead I pulled the engine...so it may be worth it to investigate to the max B4 pulling unless you just want to pull it

4x4 evo was the only one I ever played on my PS2...now I dont have it but it would be nice to get something like that esp if you could get some major OHV parks mapped out and build your rig up and go for the trails and if they changed throughout the season that would be sweet too...

looks like trailer wiring to me...i see a green white and brown wire coming out...maybe they spliced in somewhere up under there for some reason but that doesnt make sense...maybe a power inverter for a CB or something...

carpool with my neighbor (i drive 80% of the time) in my 2007 Camry w/ 4cyl and he has a 2000 Fronty...I'm getting anywhere between 29-35 mpg depending on if I drive 65 or 85 but I drive to and from the mountains daily so that damps the fuel economy along with all the freakin wind here but I'm very happy to not be getting the 18mpg on the highway I was getting in my pathy

yea easy to move...once you pull the oil pan you can use a punch to get the plug out (pushing from the inside out) and pull the dipstick tube out and swap their locations... I had read one time about the "crank snout" length being different (mine was the same so I didnt have to do that) so if thats the case you may have to swap cranks which isnt too bad...but i'd def recommend an engine stand... while the engine is out i'd also suggest changing all the seals, head gaskets, timing belt, water pump and exhaust studs (whatever else I may have missed) b/c it's much easier on a stand than in the truck... good luck with the swap

quick overview from the for sale section It is also still running the square toothed TB b/c I couldnt get the crank off... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...3&hl=maxima write up but for some reason it lost all of the images... maxima heads: half of the pictures I cant find now...i'll search for them and put them up on photo bucket and post'em back here...not sure how similar they are but it should be close for the amount of work... all the junk pulled from the maxima engine and returned to my buddy at the JY since I didn't want to throw it away and no bites on ebay... EDIT: Image directory...LINK...they're not in any kind of order but you can get the drift of what I went through...I guess the main thing is you will probably have some extra sensors on the maxima engine that you just wont hook up to the pathy...what I did was set the engines side by side and stripped the maxima and then as I pulled something off the pathy engine i put it on the maxima engine so everything went exactly where it came off of...hope that helps some...all of the vg engines should have the same block casting as far as external bolt hole locations...sit them up next to each other and see fi they remotely resemble one another to verify Not reading the other posts I know I had to change out all the mounting brackets, 2wd water pump b/c I used the maxima TB cover (same as 2wd HB) swapped the oil dipstick tube & location, swapped oil pans, swapped intakes and I think that was about it...

i swapped over a 86 altima (maybe it was maxima) VG to a pathy VG...it's not too involved but there were some quirks and shortcuts I took...let me see if I can find my write up...if not i'll post what I remember

they always popped a car on the front lawn that a DD was driving or had hit that someone got killed in for us...and then gave us beer goggles and sent us on a course with cones in a golf cart...which I drove through flawlessly and then got a nice lecture on how this didn't mean it was ok for me to drink and drive...

ahh good point...if your shoes were gone and you replaced with new the tension on the cable could be such that if the handle is down its set...theres an adjuster on the cable if you follow the 2 leads from LH and RH side back to the center that is the for the tension adjustment on the cable maybe try releasing that and see if that helps

I don't know for sure but I think they are the same... I may have one laying around that I could send ya for shipping costs...let me know via PM if you want me to check

you probably need to adjust the drums...if not you may have forgotten to hook up the cable that connects to the E brake assembly... you will notice 2 tapped holes in the drum...find 2 bolts that match those threads and thread them in each side probably 2-5 turns each alternating back and forth until the drum comes off...

u pull it yards are always good for some finds if you get lucky...

obviously be careful pulling the panels and sizing your speakers right for the head unit...other than that its not a horrible task

counting helps....lay them on hte concrete level inside hte X member count splines and make sure they're the same...then mark and place in truck...crank away

3-3/8 but 3-3/4 is only 1/8th of a quart over which is hardly anything... ohh wait that says 5-3/4 yea that would be bad...

2nd that...my 95 does it every winter...

I have no idea what that is but I think what he is talking about from the description of where it is is the hose (tube) that runs through the center of the intake to the heater core and right back in somewhere up at the WP...that or slicks infamous rubber hose... (the hose running between the heads mebe?)