unccpathfinder

go to an advance search and search the balljoints with my username in there for the username category...I've got like 3 or 4 different threads where I went through my procedures...its a bigger PITA than the top but not bad...

The biggest risk with a nuke plant is the waste...I think the US is deathly scared of them b/c of Chernoble and 3 mile island (still producing power today after a partial meltdown of reactor 2 or was it 1)...The westeren US seems to be pretty terrified of them for some reason but the east isnt so much. Duke Pwr is building one right outside of Charlotte, NC (makes like 3 or 4 plants within something like a 50 mile radius of the largest city in NC) and after interviewing with several companies I think they have incorporated many more fail safes than in the early years...with this said accidents can still happen...My thing is what do we do with the waste What about solar or wind energy in the deserts of CA? or even the new toyota Prius (they stole my idea) put solar panels on the vehicle (or house) to produce enough energy to make the fuel?

Cool stuff...you get an attaboy for attempting it and getting results...if you could safely build a "manufacturing facility at your house (or in a field somewhere) you could possibly run it and compress it into a tank to use... I havent followed along a lot in the thread but doesnt hydrogen burn a lot hotter than regular fossil fuel? if so how much does that shorten the lifespan of the rings/head gasket and does the cooling system need to be upgraded? I also remember going to several seminars on hydrogen fuel cells in college and its not near as "violent" as its hyped up to be and most of them equated it to the equivalent of gasoline Have you tests just getting a 20lb cylinder and injecting it into the pathy pure or mixed to see if it'll run? or not even the pathy a lawnmower or something like that? I know mythbusters got the car to run as a carburetored engine but didnt see anything on FI Hope it works out for ya

dude swap the engine and MT over...then you just have to throw over the pedals and hydrolics and remove the floor panel and short the "park interlock" switch (or integrate it with the cltuch interlock switch) and call it good...thats what I would do if it were me

I was thinking htat too but I couldn't remember if the fenderwell's would fit over the engine or not... I would guess yes b/c I bet they build up the chassis and body separately and drop them together and make the final connections b/c I know when I was working with Freightliner we built the truck/bus chassis' there at the shop in Gaffney SC and they got trucked 200 miles up to High Point NC to get bodied (at least for the bus chassis') the RV chassis' went even further I think

31s on stock rims have no issues...well unless you turn to full lock but you can adjust the stops so that doesnt happen... on my 87 no issues at all (no frame rub or anything at full lock) with BFG AT's but with Dunlop Mudrovers I had some frame rub at full lock but I just knew where that was when I was turning and never turned past that point (if I did it could have ripped off a lug but it never happened) on my 95 i cant remember what the BS is on the wheels but i had to do some trimming on the front valence and fender flares and a slight crank on the T-bars I didn't know I was flexed out this much until I heard the rubber squeaking on the fender and stopped to see what happened and was like wow but it wasnt enough interference to hurt anything (this is left rear) if you're running an open go with a lockrite in the rear if you're on a budget if not go with an airlocker as mentioned above The front right was rubbing slightly too on the fender flare but not on the fender itself: If I hit a speedbump too fast sometimes the sidewall would grab the flare but like I said those weren't stock wheels This will give insight on how far they were sticking out of the fender wells:

if you cut out the front end I did it in a wrecked 95...but seriously I think you could do it if you had the truck about 3' off the ground and an engine hoist that is tall enough to lift it out but for me the tailstock was hitting the ground so i pulled out the sawsall hacked it some and then it was so ass heavy and my hoist wasnt tall enough i dropped it down and unbolted the tranny...not worth the hassle I dont believe... if its all by yourself i'd def separate them and inspect everything...b/c if you're doing it you may as well do it correctly b/c if not the RMS will start pissing just as soon as you button it all back up...if its up for a TB change i'd knock it out while the engine was out of the truck along with changing out all the heater hoses and anything else that can be a PITA in the truck

Nothing is needed The only issue with the TM lift is it drops the Tbar anchor points so you don't gain any additonal ground clearance if that is what you're after (sorta true but it just makes them more vulnerable to damage and getting stuck)...theres good advice above and sure there will be some to come below... I would say find your budget...find what kind of offroading you will be doing and build to suit...for example if you're going to be swampin waterproofing the ECU/engine and a snorkel is where I would go 1st

yep...i ground off all the plastic BS on the back of the badges and RTV'd them on... they're on for good I believe...I tried removing them b/c I hadnt mounted lights yet but needed it to stay on for the move to cali...well they're going to be a PITA once I get it running and get the lights thrown on there

lights don't have a huge draw as stated above...a good # of amps are needed to turn the starter...I'd put $ on it that it'll jump... to me it always seems that the dead of winter time usually hurts the battery and the heat of summer kills it

Sounds good...I'll get with you when that time gets closer...I've got to clear out the garage 1st B4 I can even think about doing it...but when the time gets closer (prob a couple of months) I'll let ya know

My buddy got pulled over several times for hella's on and specifically pointed up into the line of sight ( to see further down the road)...he was never cited and the cops were just like make sure you don't use those on the road (it was a 2wd truck and thats about the only place they got used) they're #1 purpose was to hold the bumper on but other than that no1 really cared but the light height limit laws in NC seem to be similar to NH but not really enforced... as far as reckless driving I think you can fight that one...especially if it was raining and you were parked in some mud/wet dirt...reckless driving carries some pretty heafty fines/license loss...I don't see that being reckless driving...I know in NC or at least Fayetteville theres a law for spinning tires...a buddy got it for doing a burnout at a stoplight in highschool...and it was something like a $200 ticket...but I think that would be much better than reckless driving...and is it just reckless or C&R (careless and reckless) b/c i know in NC right now a C&R costs much more insurance wise and points wise on the license... It may be worth it to do a free consult with a lawyer and they may say hey for $400 we can get all of these tickets dropped and possibly discuss the harassment by the cop b/c I have heard of folks getting tickets dropped b/c they got 2 or 3 tickets from the same cop in the same area in the same week... Good luck

yea thats my conclusion... for sure...it will be almost a complete truck...might be missing a tranny or the engine thats in it right now but will have 1 of 2 engines I have in the house...I've just got to get the OK from the boss...this no offroad BS is killing me

I'm from NC and not living in CA I've seen just as much rust out here on the west coast as I saw on the east coast...I always heard "california rust free" my ass...try to find a you pull it lot and thats where you will find the big savings...

nope the door locks work perfectly now after the 1st jump start (which tells me the battery charged enough to have enough amps to kick the relays/solenoids) shes gone through and checked all the connections and cleaned all the corrosion at the battery and on the chassis grounds and still the same results... Her husband is going to try to check it on this weekend and take the battery back up b/c he's thinking its a bad battery as well and they were just not listening to her since shes a woman but knows how cars work and how to work on them... If that doesnt work I guess he's going to be pulling the starter to have it checked but I'm pretty sure its still good b/c if the solenoid was bad I dont think it would turn over even with a good battery and she sorta trouble shot that as well by bumping the switch over and over then rocking the truck back and forth and still the same results...she didn't have a multimeter to check the battery with so thats y I/she had to rely on the folks at the parts store This whole situation has really frustrated me so I think once this issue is resolved I will ship it here to CA and strip it to complete my 87 project while selling the extra parts since the gf will only allow me to have 2 cars here at the house

The alternator shouldn't have anything to do with a vehicle starting the 1st time a brand new battery is dropped in and she had them check that while they were there (not a pull off and check but the cheesy on vehicle check) and it said good... I guess I'll have one of my mechanic buddies take a look at it for me....grrr this frustrates me

Just talked to her again...everything works in the truck except it will not start off the battery only when its jumped...if its trying to be started on its own the starter will just click (the low power click) when she took it to get the battery checked he had to jump it off of a boost pack to get it started after checking the battery which I don't have faith in those jackasses checking things like that anyways...He also told her "it sounds like the the starter isn't working" after it started I will have her check the ground strap Thanks

Ok I did a search and didn't find anything quite like what I've (my cousin) has going on...Shes the caretaker of my 95 for right now and has neglected it for the past month or so and hasnt driven it or started it...well inspection is due so she had to jump it the other day and it drove around town and whatever fine with no indication of a bad alternator... So today she goes and buys a new battery and installs it for me and calls me up saying that the power locks still don't work and the truck won't crank. So I ultimately write that off as the new battery is bad so I ask her to jump the truck and let it run for 5 mins or so and then try to start it again to see what happens... so while on the phone she pulls up and jumps it with her Chevy and it started up no problem and everything worked she said she cleaned the battery terminals and they're both on tight and took the battery back and they said it was fine...I still think its the battery though b/c if it would start off of a jump but not off the battery then it has to be the battery... My past experiences with batteries is I always go through at least 2 before getting one that is good b/c they ultimately have 12V but have a dead cell and the amps are incredibly low Thoughts/opinions....This sucks that I'm not there to check it out and get'er running

87Pathy I believe is his handle...check it out..used to be the big black/yellow truck now its big black n blue...his looked really sweet and a nice job not just chopped and beat with a hammer...

well I was saying swap the V belts out for the grooved pulley's do an electric fan swap if you can't make the grooved idler pulley work Go to a local u pull it lot get the pulley's set it up on the engine stand and figure out if it'll work...if not ebay off the parts but I'm sure you can get it to work...I[m pretty sure NAPA has the Alt and PS grooved belts so if it all lines up you're home free...you may even get that idler pulley to work but I think that would be the only hiccup and then the electric fan swap is an easy solution and nice upgrade... EDIT: I guess you still need the idler though to run the WP

True statement...and i've only been living in it for a year...The craziest thing so far was snow or a week straight of rain...I thought everyone down there was going to go crazy...

I know that feeling...mine has been half ass together for 2+ years now just thinking about it I don't think the snout will matter though if you can make the crank pulley that is on the engine work with all of the accessories...

nope its worse....you gotta drop out the tranny along with a buncha other crap...its not too bad though...a solid 16 hours of work if you're by yourself

where are you located? if you're interested that maxima engine i talked about is just sitting in the garage...I don't know if it will burn oil or not but I was told it didnt prior to building it up for my truck...if you're interested and close we can work out a deal even if you took it and pulled it apart and rebuilt the bottom end (since the rings are the only thing that be bad but I think they're good since it passed a comp test) I'm located at 93505

I don't know if there is any difference but if you want to make your seats look nice go get in a new RAV-4 (the gf's dad rented one while he was here) those seats are like sitting on rocks and riding for 6hrs sucked... I do know that my 87 seats were a lot softer than the 95 ones I put in but they were both XE's so the 87's were just probably worn into comfort