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BIAS PLY IS THE DUCKS NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! stuff all speed rating tho. Spolar can i make a suggestion with regards to the tranny oil temp sender. dont put it in the tranny pan. put it in line just befor the first tranny oil cooler. reason being then its reading at one of the hottest spots of the system. when i did mine i was going to do the same thing. spoke to a few good transmission guys and inline before the cooler was the go. use a large t piece, screw the sender in to the t and have the oil flowing straight thru past it.

you mean waste gate before doing anything 'turbo' to a diesel you need 2 things: 1. boost gague 2. egt (exhaust gas temperature) gauge once you know what boost your running then you can think of changing the boost. btw: egt is important. rule of thumb is 550 degrees celsius is tops of what you wanna run. other wise you are gonna start to damage the turbo itself. changing the boost without changes to fuel and air can be an unwise thing to do. if your after more poke what have you done to your engine & exhaust?

dont know never read any info or tried to put a pathy rear lsd centre in a pathy front diff

yes is possible.... catch: expensive you pretty much need to change everything from the left hand locking hub all the way thru to the right hand locking hub i looked into this a few years back, it just to turned out to be way to expensive.

sorry folks didnt realise :o

interesting read continuing with my other post. linky both sides of the story as far as im concered people need to know about krap&n's.

kiwi first things first. you need to check all your fuel hoses, the hill thing is pointing more and more towards it. have had friends in the past with exactly the same problem. btw: its not the battery. diesels dont need a battery to run. only to start. when you are talking about pipes after the turbo are you talking inlet or exhaust? i very highly doubt it is the pump unless there is a visible leak from it. the oil blowing thru is know as 'blow by' its not an uncommon thing. however i dont know why it happens or if its bad.

no no no not at all. the more often you service your car the better if you read what i posted i was just talking about so called 'high performance' air filters and what they are actually doing to your motor. with regards to airfilters change em regularly with good quality 'stock' units.

mz you crazy kid.......

sorry forgot power trax

mz now it looks like i was telling someone to search...... NOOOOOOOO

ouch rear: detroit locker or ARB airlocker front: ARB airlocker only (R200 front diffs only) ARB's airlockers are very expensive & you need a compressed air system to go with them, but they are VERY effective - let me tell you, i love mine & the air system comes in handy for inflating tyres as well. wheels are locked and unlocked with the flick of a switch. very good build quality. excellent product. detroits are still very good, they are much cheaper however they are not selectable ie locked all the time, except cornering on road. some of the lads on here with em might even say elsewise about unlocking on cornering. no air system needed.

agreed good info unccpathy

:confused: 4mpg better? thats a little generous isnt it? heres a another useless side note, im good at them. for those out there who like filters that claim to be high perormance. how do you actually think they work? to be any use to an engine, for the purpose of more power/economy, you need to get more air to the engine (ah derrrrr). improvements are only made when more air is available (discounting technology as a factor) well how do you think a 'high performance' filter does that? short answer: lets more air thru. how does this happen? without charging the physical size of the filter well basically to become less 'restrictive' the filter element needs to be less fine. ie lets more of both air and fine particles of debris thru. all im getting at is that these 'high performance' filters let more air in but they also let more crud in as well. so once youve weighed up how you wanna treat your engine the choice is yours. better mpg/power or a better filter that protects the engine better. interesting link air filters

same as me!!!! commodore 3.8L v6

hehehe

Yep - plastic bushes. pretty average i reckon. precise as stated above i will measure up the new bushing from nissan that i get. i have a friend that is a machinist so if i need some he will knock em up for me.

good idea gonna try the genuine nissan bushes first, then i would go some brass ones if they crapped out quick smart.

have you done this?

had thought about brass bushings. i might take down all the details of my new bushes, which ive already ordered, so ive got all the dimensions if i wanna knock up so brass ones instead. as for ac, im not getting anything from the u.s.

this is the old arm

vsicks is gonna love this stupid front end dec 05 it copped a new centre link (genuine), a new idler arm (pedders), 4 new tie rod ends (wasp) and my idler arm brace. in the short space of less than 6 months ive blown 2 tie rod ends and now i find the stupid $145 new idler arm is stuffed as wel..... i ripped the arm apart to see what was wrong. NOT very impressed with what i saw. basically 2 metal bits, 2 plastic bushes, a washer and a nut. i have found that the plastic bushes are hammered and are sloppy as. so i grabbed my old original idler arm, the one which the new arm replaced, pulled it apart to find basically the same thing other than the nissan arm has a seal on each end. i guess that why its last MUCH, MUCH longer. so i ve ordered 2 new bushes from nissan and im gonna hope for the best. i also found that the bushes in the new arm ae ALOT sloppier than the original arm bush. what gives - a six month old part more stuffed than an 18 year old part. basically ive wasted $145. attached is the new arm

just a side note. when dealing with shim's. you can get in trouble if you dont tighen the upper arm bolts down tight enough. (nothing surprising there) however theres been one or two on here & my self (as of last night....) and another pathy owner i know where we have run into trouble cause the treads in the chassis where the upper arm bolts go into have been damaged by crummy tyre shops. they have stripped the treads so its not possible to put proper torque on the bolts. without proper torque on those bolts the shim's can fall out. the easiest and best solution to this is to 'helicoils' the holes. i helicoiled my holes last night, and put my top arms back on, then tighened them up. i was very inpressed how tight i could go. i stopped when i physically could not budge the rachet any further after leaning on it with my whole body weight. now another side note..... (keeping in mind im running higher than stock and in oz where no aftermarket arms are available) with regards to camber and caster. most shops round here dont wanna know about modified cars, ie. you take your car in for an alignment and all they do is toe adjustment. so i ve taken it apon myself to get the camber and caster right. now obviously the only way this is gonna work is by making adjustments then going to an alignment shop and getting a print of whats happening. now for the useful bit..... what ive done to get the camber right is to cut a plate of steel thats 5mm think to fit behind the upper arm then drilled holes in it the same as the bolt patern for the arm. ive made 6 of these so i can add or subtract plates as necasseray (sp????). once the camber is close by eye then i check it out at the tyre shop. the reason ive use plates is that a plate with a hole will NOT fall out unless the bolt holding it completely falls out as well. if a bolt falls out youve got more to worry about then losing a plate..... for caster same process as above HOWEVER instead of plates that go from BOTH bolts, i will be using half plates ie. one bolt hole only. this in turn moves one side of the upper arm away from or closer to the chassis. which leads the axis of the wheel forward or backwards. now basically ive just been working the plates into combinations where both camber and caster are as close as i can get to spec then get the toe set. sorry for the long post

ah the be-loved search function.

wow havent seen that before! :o