Vsicks Pathy

So are you. lol.

Lazy.... There, I said it! And you spelt sh!t wrong. It doesn't have "awee" between the "sh" and the "t", it has an "i".

So you're the culprit. lol. So, is it? Ugly that is.

RP88, you old dog.. Some things never change. I give an opinion, get shot down for it, shoot back and the fun begins.

I am forever pulling my mate (2000 Hi Lux IFS) through sh!t that my Pathy glides through. Yep, Toyota's IFS Hi Lux is a POS. Stopped! Stuck! POS!

It looks like you are just about to become a seesaw. And seesaws, especially "unlocked" ones, stop even on hard traction surfaces! How do I know that? Because I had one too and that's the point I made with regard to articulation. I don't think I said you can't do anything with an R50. I am just saying the earlier and later models have far more potential. By saying "far more", I mean 'all of the'. Once the later models become cheap enough for "us" to cut up and modify, what model will you choose? I doubt anyone would choose an R50. That is just my opinion but I can't wait to see the first live axle, front and rear R51. Lets be honest here yet again shell we? They even look better than the R50 too.

Now that's really what constitutes a sad day for a Pathfinder. Never forget, a driver is only as good as the car he or she is in. I have been on many a trail that doesn't have a "right line". I think we can agree that a nascar can't win a F1 race, can't we? I know that this is an extreme example but I think it makes the point.

I didn't mean you couldn't do anything, what I meant to say was that you can't do enough with an R50. The monocoque construction of the R50 is one hell of a setback for anyone wanting to get serious, they're for road cars and road cars only. To go off road, at least here in Oz, you need at least 33 inch tyres or you'll get hung up on your diff all of the time. Mind you, nowadays, 33's are considered small. Can you get 33's or larger under the R50? Articulation too is a major part to off roading. Articulation helps keep the car stable on the trail and is something IFS can never offer anyone. The thought of the old IFS in my Pathy with it rocking/pivoting back and forth between opposing front and rear wheels still scares me. Can you put a live axle up front of an R50? The R50, IMO, is a soft roader for life. At least with the WD21 and the models that followed the R50 you can still turn the soft roader (And that's what ALL Pathfinder are) into an off roader if you want to.

The Pathfinder was never a true off road car in the first place. From it's conception in the mid 80's, it was a soft roader. The only off roading it was designed for was a supermarket car park. It has never been up to the task of a 4x4 unless serious mods were employed. Anyone that thinks it is, or ever was, a serious 4x4 is kidding themselves. Granted they were over engineered (but for the steering).... That's why they make good project cars. As for the newer Pathfinders... They are the evolution of the WD21's and just got softer, that's all. On a positive note though, at least they have a ladder chassis again. Unlike the R50 that you can't really do anything with, if you want to spend the money on the new Pathy, you can make them an off road monster. Live axles front and rear isn't a pipe dream with these. As for offering an off road package, they do offer one. A Patrol.

The ARB "winch" bar takes a low mount winch. There are two types of heavy duty bar. One is a bull bar, this has no capacity for a winch. The other is a winch bar, that's pretty self explanatory. Though my number plate covers the winch hole on my old bar, the differences between a winch bar and a bull bar are easily seen. Me on the left, sw on the right.

Good to see you are up and running. I agree, it was $70 well spent.

Good to see you tackle this problem in the manner you have. There is nothing better than peace of mind. Safe travels too.

You should not be able to put a brake pedal to the floor in any car, ever! Something seriously is wrong with your braking system. May I ask who bled the brakes? Was it you or a qualified mechanic. I ask this because I have seen people put air into the system before. There are two techniques to bleeding brakes and the pump with a mate technique requires good timing. Get it even slightly wrong and you have air back in the system The bleed into the jar method is easier, in that it is near on impossible to suck air in, but requires a lot more fluid. Does your car have discs all round? If so the drum adjustment will not make any difference in pedal hight or stiffness, and only the hand brake can be adjusted via the drums. Probable causes..... You either have a gaseous build up, still have air in your system or the master cylinder is faulty. A test for the master cylinder is to put pressure on the pedal then relive it slightly, then resume the same pressure. If the pedal falls, it may well be your problem. Bubbles in the system are self explanatory. Gas build up is new fluid through the whole system as well as the bleed of course.. I hope you get it sorted.

Now that it is all over I can finally say... I just didn't get this thread and the advice you were getting. Removal of the drive shaft was a joke. I am glad you have the car back home.

My guess is that it would over heat pretty quickly and I'd hate to change a spark plug.

I think I read his post wrong. I assumed the low range he talked about to be that of the TC.

That is a startling revelation 88, though not really surprising given the Nissan engine is so underpowered. Time for an engine swap by the sounds of it. A 4.0ltr Buick V6 will have you climbing mountains effortlessly.

Good call.

The 10.5 will get more grip in the boggy stuff (not tend to float as much) than the 12.5. The issue of turning them... a 33 inch diameter is a 33 inch diameter, and the V6 should turn them no problems.

Sounds like a plan to me.

As Simon said... No, I am not making a joke. The heater direction issue could also be at the heater box. You should be able to see where it goes by looking under the dash. If it is not connected there, you are lucky. If it is connected there, then you will have to remove the slide panel. That could be a pain in the arse... Not because it is hard to do, more so that the plastics you have to remove to get it out are more than likely very brittle and prone to break.

I'd be looking at diff slop or the drive shaft. It is easy to check. All you have to do is (while the car is parked) get under it and move the drive shaft. If it moves more than a couple of mm then one of the two will be the cause.

It certainly sounds like there is a wire crossed. One wire in the wrong place gives you two pots out of sequence. The firing order should be on the inlet manifold. Your dizzy spins anti clockwise and number 1 should be pointing toward your number 1 spark plug. The dizzy reads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 (This is the firing order for the vg30). The left bank of your engine (as you look at it from the front) is 1, 3 and 5. (1 being closest to you). The right bank is 2, 4 and 6. (6 being at the right hand rear). An eg. of how to check your wiring.... 1 goes to number 1 spark plug (front left), so the lead should be short, 2 will go to number 2 spark plug on the right hand front, 3 will go to the spark plug in the center on the left etc etc.... I tried to find an image but I was not successful. PM me if you need more info.

The flasher cans should be separate from each other, so it is unusual for both the hazard and indicators to stop working at the same time. Having said that, stranger thing have happened. Replace both flasher cans and see how you go. Any auto outlet should have replacement flashers. Take them in with you if you are concerned you will not get the correct units.

My guess is that they would be the same. I have to ask why you would want to change the fuse box though. I Would imagine it to be one of the harder, more tedious jobs that you could do on any car.