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Rallybob

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About Rallybob

  • Birthday 07/10/1966

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1992 WD21 Pathfinder XE, mostly stockCustom T304 stainless 2.5" exhaustRancho shocks15 x 8 wheels
  • Place of Residence
    Spofford, NH
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
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  • What do you consider yourself?
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  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1992

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Spofford, NH
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I spoke with Clark Steppler at JWT a few weeks back, inquiring about turbocharging my Pathfinder. He said the stock VG30e MAF was good up to about 270 hp. I think that if you are making less power than this, making it bigger isn't going to do anything for you. JMTCW, Bob
  2. It's a pain in the butt, however it's possible. I had three broken studs in my Pathfinder. I went to remove the manifolds, and even with heat and PB Blaster, two more studs broke...so I had five to drill out and extract out of the original twelve. All of them were broken off flush with the heads. I removed the rubber splash shields in the front wheel-wells and removed the front tires. I also used extended drill bits (12" long, one 1/8" pilot drill and another *just* smaller than the 8 mm studs). I used a spring-loaded center punch to center the drill bits. It took a long weekend, but I got them all out, and ran a tap through every hole to clean the threads. Then I used some stainless studs I got from MCMaster-Carr, some thick stainless washers and stainless nuts, and anti-seized the heck out of everything before re-assembly. So far so good, it's been a few years now since I did them.
  3. I don't think I'll be repairing any Pathfinder frames again! I really hate welding to old rusty metal. At some point I will restore this truck when I have the time and money. It's probably not worth the trouble to do it, but I'm keeping it for sentimental value since it was my sister's. She died about 10 years ago and this is about the only thing I have left to remember her by. When I go that route, I'm going to build a complete new frame from scratch, and I will lose the torsion bars and go coil-overs up front. All TIG welded (my preference), and welded up on my chassis jig. I figure I can incorporate a body lift directly into the new frame rather than make taller body mounts, and I can strengthen up the known weak areas, as well as completely box the frame (no holes) to avoid water egress. And I'll have the frame powdercoated too.
  4. In my case a major PITA. I have a trailer hitch in place, the hitch bolts are heavily rusted (won't come off), and when the tank got dropped the gas tank flanges straddled the hitch and the panhard bar. So I had to tilt the tank at a pretty severe angle to remove it. Of course, the tank was nearly full of fuel and awfully heavy. Even with my lift and a tranny jack it was a lot of work. If I didn't have a hitch it would have been very easy, even the gas tank bolts came right out, and they've got loctite on them from the factory. Nice thing is, Nissan saw fit to make access to the fuel lines and the fuel sender very easy, so I replaced all the hoses and clamps when I re-did the metal fuel lines. My bumpstops have been missing for a few years now...
  5. I welded the inner part of the frame from inside the frame, after the outside skin had been cut off.
  6. I downloaded some pics tonight of the frame damage I had. I only realized afterward I didn't take any pics of the repairs on the passenger side. but it was pretty similar to the driver's side.
  7. I've been thinking about this option lately. I have an older T04B turbo I think would work great on my '92 Pathfinder. I spoke to Clark Steppler at JWT, he said my stock MAF maxed out at 270 hp (no problem, I just want a little more torque and passing power), and recommended 370 cc injectors plus their turbo reflash. The big issue will be where to put the turbo. I think I will end up retaining the driver's exhaust manifold, and making a cross-under pipe by the oil pan, then inverting the passenger exhaust manifold so the outlet faces 'up' and forward. I'll move the battery to the rear of the vehicle, relocate the PS reservoir and a few of the wiring bits, and will fit the turbo right up in the front corner of the passenger side engine compartment. An intercooler might be a tight fit, so I'll consider scrapping the A/C.
  8. It's probably worse than it looks. I did my rear framerails last weekend. My Pathfinder had been getting 'weird' feeling for lack of a better term. Felt like a convertible crossing railroad tracks, lots of shudder over bumps, etc. I found cracks around the panhard bar mounts on the frame (3/4 of the way around!). Also found that the upper spring perches were at different heights from bending. I used a needle-scaler to clean off the surface rust, and soon found out that the metal was paper-thin in many places. On the passenger side I ended up replaced 3-sides of the frame rail over a distance of almost 30"! The only intact metal was the top section of the frame, the sides and bottom were essentially gone. It took me about 4 hours to repair the driver's side, but the passenger side also had rust at the lower trailing arm mount, and the fuel lines were so rusty that when I tried to bend them out of the way all three lines (pressure, return, vent) snapped and started leaking fuel! So I ended up removing the gas tank (PITA with a trailer hitch BTW), and replaced all the flexible hoses, hose clamps, and the metal fuel lines. I used stainless for the hard lines, I don't want to do this again! So the passenger side took me almost three days to complete, working about 5-6 hours per day. This was on my car lift, I can't imagine doing this on the ground. Bob
  9. I had a local metal shop bend up new outer rockers for my '92 from 14 gauge steel. They're a bit heavy but they won't rust out again in my lifetime.
  10. As a general rule a thumb, the smaller the body of the muffler, the less packing/sound absorption material it will have. So it will probably be louder than a comparable larger muffler. Of course the general design of the muffler has a lot to do with the sound levels as well. Bob
  11. That's absolutely correct, you really want zero backpressure, no matter what engine. However, the trick is to balance the lack of backpressure with the need to maintain exhaust gas velocity. Otherwise we'd all be running 4" exhaust systems. A bigger displacement engine with higher airflow, higher compression/etc....can handle a larger diameter exhaust without a significant reduction in velocity, but a stock engine needs to be careful to not go too big. I went with 2.5" as my main exhaust diameter based on previous experience (I've build a lot of road racing engines over the years). I used a Magnaflow 2.5" muffler (5" x 11" body and 22" long). I extended the 2" primary tubes off hte manifolds to merge behind the transmission. I stuck two small Magnaflow cats further upstream (next the the tranny), and shielded them with .080" aluminum to keep radiant heat to a minimum. My torque has improved compared to stock, and higher rpm power is better as well. Mileage seems to be the same as before however. HTH, Bob
  12. When I replaced my manifolds and the six broken studs I had, I removed the front tires and the rubber fender liners. Made things a lot easier. I also used 12" long drill bits (one 1/8" pilot, the other just under the 8mm stud diameter) to drill out the broken studs. Everything I put back on was stainless steel except for the new manifolds. I made the entire exhaust from 2" stainless downpipes> into> 2.5" main exhaust. Used stainless sheet metal clamps instead of u-clamps, etc.
  13. Looks cool. Looks like you did a lot of work on it. I have a question for you, how big is that rack overall? I like the general proportions of it. TIA, Bob
  14. Well, if you want a decent quality welder that actually welds nice, I have been super impressed with this thing. Hobart Handler 187 While I don't actually own one, my cousin does. I'm just very impressed at the way it welds thin sheet metal with ease, and at the same time it'a capable of welding 3/16" efficiently and with good penetration. It's also relatively cheap and has good brand support (made by Miller in fact). Granted, it's 230 volt, but anything with any power tends to be. My own shop has an Airco Dip-pack 200 (made by ESAB) mig welder and while it welds thicker metal like butter and has a 60% duty cycle at max capacity, the Handler 187 is far more user friendly and lays some really nice beads. Of course I prefer tig welding my sheetmetal whenever possible (Miller 250DX), but that's just me. It's slow, but the reduction of HAZ and minimal grinding make it worthwhile for me. Bob

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