wheelmanLS1

I honestly have never seen an X wheel... actually I haven't seen many vehicles wheelin at all (I'm THAT out of the loop of off-roading). Who do these guys think they are? Nissan's are the red-headed stepchildren of 4x4's. We should be embracing each other, not tearing them apart. We should be making fun of Jeeps or Toyotas, not fellow Nissans.

I deliver Chinese food in my Pathfinder... I burn about 5 gallons every night. Hmmm... that's like $12 just at work. That's okay though because I can make $100 on a good night.

Are you seriously trying to win it? Because unless you want it, I'm bidding up to $500... and I'm not joking.

I use 5W-30 Valvoline High Mileage and am never switching back to Pennzoil.

I have a '95 with 153,000 give or take. I have the original automatic and do not have any problems wih it. It's a slow shifter, but I'm pretty sure it was like that out of the factory (I was used to driving Honda VTEC's and SI's which have very fast transmissions). The manuals are much much quicker off the line. I personally would of rather had a manual, just because I love to goose it. I have off-roaded in both transmissions (granted one was a Jeep and the other my Pathfinder) and I prefered the stick. I do the casual trail-riding stuff, so I don't have much experience with rocking out... but I'm sure it's much easier to do in a standard than in an automatic. Just depends on preference.

I completely agree! People around here are complaining about child labor in other countries. I know of this freaky gothic girl in my English class who won't by Nikes because of it. Those people forget that those children CHOOSE to work in factories. Nobody points a gun at their head and tells them that they can't have a break. Better working than building eye-hand coordination on the XBox. I don't remember where I heard this, but don't the Doug-Thorley headers only fit manual transmissions?

I can probably help with questions 2 and 4. 2) Mine sounds like a diesel, and I know why. I have a bad exhaust leak coming from the manifolds due to broken studs. Most Pathfinders from 86.5 through 95 have a problem with the manifold studs breaking and the manifold warping. This causes a 'ticking' noise that will quiet down after the engine warms up. Mine sounds much worse because most of my studs are broken. 4) Slightly warped rotors can be resurfaced with a brake lathe. But most warped rotors cannot be remachined, and cracked ones never can be.

Sorry 88, can't let you have it for that little. I bid $27. 25+ MPG my ass!

I'd say you found a really good deal. That one just might be cleaner than mine. Nah... impossible.

Oh boy! Maybe 8 or 10 inch subs under my seats ARE possible afterall.

Yeah, I'd say you're a little more serious than the average. The average off-roader goes on trails to go camping, fishing, biking, etc. They do not need much more than a stock 4x4. That is just my opinion though. I most likely have the wrong idea about the average 4x4er.

You get a page. And bragging rights. You see that link in my signature? I'm proud to have it. You used to get some NPORA decals but that deal is nonexistent these days.

Oh yeah. Duh! I don't think the inquiry should be whether or not people wheel ther '05's, but whether or not they'd like a skidplate. Most off-roaders (the ones with mostly stock vehicles) don't have skidplates. But on the other hand... after seeing your website, I think I would like a skidplate even though I don't off-road enough to use it to it's designed purpose. I like how it looks; that and my underbody looks like crap. Pay day is the 16th... and your Warrior plate is on the top of my list.

Somebody on the WD21 forums was doing it, I think. Too bad they aren't up and going right now. I'm pretty sure he did it okay.

Runnerman, do you make the BlackPanther skidplates? If so, do you have a website? Or maybe some pictures?

I think it depends on your off-road style. If you are a serious off-roader, go with steel because more than likely you'll bend or break one... and steel is easier to fix or cheaper to replace than aluminum. Aluminum looks very good, but the price is up there in the clouds. I want aluminum, just because polished aluminum rims look real good with a black truck, and I drive on the street much much more than off on a path. Some people think the black steel wheels look better than chrome anyways. It just depend on your preference. I know I haven't said anything that hasn't been said already, just thought I'd add my opinion.

MSD Installation manual says a new coil is not necessary, but what do they know about Pathfinders? I am getting a MSD Blaster, which is a high performance coil. That way I can have my ignition exactly the way I want it. I replaced my spark plugs about a month ago with Bosch +4, so other than the coil, my ignition is good to go.

The MSD Ignition System is a powerful ignition upgrade designed to produce more power, better mileage, strong throttle response, smooth torque and a longer engine life using matching components. Eliminates bogs, misfires, plug fouling, rough idle, poor starting, surging, poor MPG, weak torque and power. Because it features the capacitive discharge 6A ignition unit, which is responsible for increasing the ignition energy instead of the coil, the Pathfinder application does not require a coil upgrade! A capacitive discharge ignition is the most powerful ignition upgrade available because by storing extra voltage the MSD 6A is able to send as many as 6 sparks to the spark plug on one cycle and each spark is at FULL VOLTAGE! HP & Torque: 10 HP/ 14 ft lbs Torque Installation: Installation is easy. Mount the box. Install the new 8mm spiro-pro wires (high performance spark plug wires are required). 50 States Smog Legal Tweaked writing from TruckPerformance.com You can either get the regular 6A unit, or you can opt for the Off-Road version. The Off-Road version is sealed better, but unless you drive through deep gumbo mud or submerge your engine underwater, the 6A is sufficient. 6A Part Number: 6200 Off-Road Part Number: 6470 I found my ignition system at TruckPerformance.com. This link will take you straight to the correct page. Here is the ignition box: These Taylor performance wires came with the package from TruckPerformance.com. It is recommended that you install a new distributer; I changed mine. Replacing your old spark plug wires is straight-forward. To get access to the coil, slide the black plastic cover forward. First, use a Q-Tip the put a thin layer of silicone grease (included) inside each boot of the new spark plug wires. Replace one wire at a time so you don’t lose your place. Here’s what the final deal should look like: At this point, you can run the vehicle without the MSD Ignition installed. If you need to break up the installation over two sessions, this is where to do it. I recommend driving the vehicle around a minute or so after installing the performance wires to make sure everything is hooked up right. That way, you can rule out the plug wires as the culprit in a possible troubleshooting event. Okay, let’s first mount the box. I found the best place to mount the box was on the passenger-side of the battery. The battery must be moved 1.5 inches toward the driver’s side. Coincidentally, there are already holes on the battery tray to move the tie-down assembly over exactly 1.5 inches. The box is now in a place so every wire can easily reach its destination. Drill holes using a 1/8" bit (use a 3/16" bit to mount the Off-Road series if applicable). I’d recommend somebody help you hold it in place, but I was able to do it by myself. Use the self-tapping screws included with the MSD. The box is only being held on by 3 screws, but that’s more than enough. Here are some pictures: Time to start hooking up the box. We’ll start with the basics. These two wires go to the battery. That’s a dead give-away. In my case, black was positive and blue was negative. Go figure. Cut the wires about 3-4 inches before the coil, and crimp the included female slot connections onto each open wire. That means you’ll use 4 of them. When you look at the diagram, you see that the purple and green wires (see picture below) connect to the magnetic pickup in the distributer. You don’t have one. These wires won’t be used. Instead you’ll be using the red and white wires (next step). You also have a red and a white wire coming from the MSD (not pictured). They are the same gauge as the black and orange ones leading to the coil. Red goes to switched 12 volts. White goes to amplifier output. You don’t need to know what that means… I didn’t. Just know that red goes to black (+), and white goes to blue(-). Orange goes to black(+) and black goes to blue(-). Got it? Let's try to make that easier to read... From MSD is bold. From or to coil is italicized: RED goes to black (the black no longer attached to the coil because you cut it) WHITE goes to blue (the blue no longer attached to the coil because you cut it) ORANGE goes to black (the black that IS attached to the coil) BLACK goes to blue (the blue that IS attached to the coil) Remember, these colors are just my application. Yours may be different. Here is a diagram to help you out: After everything is hooked up, I highly recommend wrapping any exposed connection in electrical tape. Then use about 6 feet of split poly loom (tubing) to cover the wires. Here are some examples of my work: Please note how nicely I wrapped the extra battery wire in tape, as well as how to hook them up to the battery terminals for any of you 'not so mechanical' people: I did not need a tach adapter, but the first gens do (As far as we’ve figured out) . Since your car can run without the tachometer working, just install the system by itself and if your tachometer doesn’t work, then order the part. My local performance store wanted $40 for the tach adapter, but truckperformance.com has them for $25. Call them up, the part is not on their website. Part # 8910EIS The MSD Ignition System provides an opportunity to easily install a theft deterrent kill switch. When using the WHITE wire to trigger the MSD (which you are), install a switch across the magnetic pickup VIOLET wire to ground. When the VIOLET wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but will not start. Words were taken from the MSD installation instructions I installed the theft deterrent swith under my dash. First you have to run the purple wire(along with the green because they use the same harness) through the firewall into the cabin. Here is where I went through the firewall: You will need some more wire to reach it to the driver's side. Here is where I mounted my switch. You guys can keep a secret, right? When you get your length of wire run, hook the purple to the positive(+) terminal on the switch. Ground the negative(-) terminal to the chassis or any other place you see fit. Most switches don't matter which terminal is which, but mine did. Mine also has an LED that required a 12V source. I had a 12V harness behind my dash that was for a glove box light, but my XE-V6 never had one. So I just ran wire from that and hooked it up to the center terminal (this will only be there if you have an LED on the switch). The LED lights up if my running lights are on and the theft deterrent is engaged. You can only see the switch when you are looking for it... only as if you knew where it is. It's hidden pretty well. A toggle would have been cool, but it would have poked out like a prairie dog. You are not limited to mounting the switch hidden. Baffle the theives by placing a toggle kill switch right on your center console; just for kicks. They'll have no idea why the car won't start while the switch just looks up at the booster- mocking him silently. That's about all there is to it. Just post here if you have any questions. Maybe you have some suggestions you would like to add. The original installation thread is here. It may answer any questions you might have.

It doesn't shift mine... I'm using Netscape. What do you have?

You can derive all the information you need from this thread. But I can do a fancy write-up if you want me to.... maybe something to pin? The MSD Ignition has an optional theft-deterrent switch feature. Basically, you mount a hidden switch under the dash. When the switch is flipped one way, the car won't start. When flipped the other way, it starts and runs normally. I don't how many of you remember 'Back To The Future II', but when the '55 Biff says the the older Biff, "How'd you start my car? Only I know how to start my car!" I figure he had something like this. I'm almost done with it... I'll take some pictures tomorrow or so. Although MPG gains are minimal, I'll keep track this week and see if I changed at all.

Okay, MSD is installed. I found the best place to mount the box was to the passenger-side of the battery. The battery must be moved 1.5 inches toward the driver’s side. Coincidentally, there are already holes on the battery tray to move the tie-down assembly over exactly 1.5 inches. The box is now in a place so every wire can easily reach its destination. The box is only being held on by 3 screws, but that’s more than enough. Here are some pictures: My nice new Taylor performance wires, and the tubing used to cover my spliced wires. I think it looks very nice. I did not need a tach adapter as I suspected. 88 did, so you may need one. Since your car can run without the tachometer working, just install the system by itself and if your tachometer doesn’t work, then order the part. My local performance store wanted $40 for the tach adapter, but truckperformance.com has them for $25. Call them up, the part is not on their website. Part # 8910EIS Second, the above diagram is wrong! Blue was negative and black was positive. The young gun learned his lesson that black isn’t always negative. I’ll have to agree with 88, I don’t think I got 10 HP. I felt improvement mostly in the low end, I think I may have gotten 10 ft/lbs of torque (just a guess).

There is a control beside the hazard button that controls the brightness of the gauge. I switched mine all the way over while cleaning the dash and couldn't figure out why my lights had gone out. Try that?

Poisen will kill them, but they run off someplace else before they die (not very far, but they DO move). I do not think you want to risk having it die deep down your A/C vents. I had a friend's dad who got a rat in his Chevy Astro's A/C vent and it was a pain beyond belief to get out. The rat had gotten stuck inside and died. I used glue traps in my garage about a month and a half ago. I caught three mice all on one glue thingie all in one night. Poor little fellas. It's real heartbreaking to watch them try and chew their feet off to get out. I had to use a pellet gun on them. I used one the next night (and it's still out there) but no mice. I haven't seen one since those three got caught.

You have some strong points and I suspect you've done your homework. You may be wrong, but you may be right. But I would like a K&N, and they won't start making them unless more of us send in an email.

Looks good! If there's one thing I've learned about highway driving, it's not just to keep a good buffer, but to always have an escape route. I am constantly checking my mirrors so I can know which lane is open to swerve into should something do down.