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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/27/2022 in Posts

  1. Pulled the transmission and t-case down tonight. Part of an overhaul on the truck that started on Saturday. Valve covers and up, fuel injector service, new plugs, main seal, coolant system (including rear crossover pipe and stuff). Also swapping in a 4:1 t-case and changing the motor mounts. Dangerously close to proceeding with the SAS at this point…
    3 points
  2. My vq leaks considerably less and runs quieter with Rotella T4 15w40 for what that's worth. Valve cover gasket shouldn't affect oil pressure, the oil is just gravity draining back to the pan at that point. If its not smoking and your not constantly smelling burning oil I wouldn't worry about it on the trip. Always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the vehicle though! Lol
    2 points
  3. If you don't see smoke, I wouldn't worry too much. That's not to say it couldn't catch fire--GM did a recall for their 3800s doing exactly that--but most things I've worked on were leaking some amount of oil onto the exhaust, and none of them came in because of engine fires. I can smell the leak in our snowplow, and it annoys me, but not enough that I've bothered trying to fix it again. My friend's Toyota was leaking bad enough that the oil was pooling between the head and the exhaust manifold gasket. That one was bad enough to smoke after driving, and bad enough that we replaced the gasket for fear of it catching fire. I'm running high-mileage oil in my VG because it's cheap and why not. I haven't tracked my rear main leak to see if it's slowed any. Thicker oil might leak a little slower, but I wouldn't expect any flavor of goo-in-a-can to fix the gaskets if they're hard and cracked like mine were. If you can get to the valve cover fasteners, you might try snugging them up a little. IIRC there's also an oil cooler on the VQs that can leak, something else to check. I wouldn't assume it's a crankcase pressure issue just because it only leaks while running. The engine only pumps oil to the heads when it's running. My dad had the PCV done on his '03 (chasing the quart/1000 miles oil consumption) and the guy said he managed it without pulling the intake, but it didn't sound like he had fun doing it. It didn't solve the oil consumption. I've heard various explanations for why some VQs guzzle oil, from the design of the PCV baffles to the power valve screws falling in and chewing stuff up to excessive bore taper. My dad's smoked on warm starts, but otherwise drove fine so long as he kept oil in it. And, yeah, the IACV leaks coolant into the electronics and smokes the driver mosfet in the computer. Genius-level design at work there. The VG has its own quirks/issues, but, yeah, I wasn't impressed with the VQ.
    1 point
  4. Auto or manual? If it's auto, and it's shifting normally, that would suggest the trans computer knows what's going on even if the engine computer and gauge did not, which might help narrow it down. If it's manual, well, there's that theory shot. And, yeah, go get the '97 manual from Nicoclub. Should be some troubleshooting or at least a circuit diagram in the EL section. There's a lot of hand-holding for using the special dealer Consult tool, but there's usually an alternate method for the rest of us. If the sensor is good (and so is the gear that drives it), and both the cluster and the computer say they're not seeing anything, that would have me looking for a wiring fault in between them.
    1 point
  5. Honestly it sounds like a broken wire or corrosion on a connector somewhere. It'll be a pain to track down but I'd start inspecting the wiring harness. You can view the 1997 factory service manual here: Nissan Service Manuals - NICOclub
    1 point
  6. I'm just copying this write-up out of the Xterra Snorkels thread in the R50 forum for ease of searching down the road. And besides...you can't have too many how-tos, right? OK, before I get started, this has been something that I've been researching and looking into for about 2 years, on-and-off. I had finally saved up enough money that I could buy an ARB Navara Snorkel to test it out. I purchased a spare fender for my truck, just in case it didn't work at all and I had f'ked up my fender. I decided to go ahead with it after I smacked a tree at Paragon and put a rather sizeable dent in my drivers side fender. There have been threads here, at PCOA, AC, NOR, and several other places about R50 Snorkels. With all of that interest, I was apalled that ARB wouldn't make one specifically for the R50. There were even several people on PCOA willing to donate their trucks for as long as it took for ARB to mock one up. (Does this sentiment ring any bells? TJM with the bull-bars anyone? Bastages!) Anyways, I digress. You don't care about all that crap, you want to hear about MY snorkel, and my install experience. Do you realize how hard it is to type without a left index finger? Just kidding...but really, I nailed it with the cut-off-wheel and left a pretty sweet cut on my knuckle! Battle scars baby! On to the good stuff! I went over to Spike's place today to install the snorkel, since he has a shop and every tool you could possibly imagine. His place is amazing. Shade-tree mechanics wet dream. Ok ok ok, I'm digressing again... First of all, when you order your Safari Snorkels Nissan Navara TurboDiesel snorkel, since those are the only ones available for the D22 chassis, it will include several things: Snorkel Body Snorkel Head Rubber Connector S-Shaped Connection Tube Bag of Hardware with: 6 studs, 5 medium sized fender washers, 5 medium sized foam washers, 1 large sized fender washer, 1 large sized foam washer, 6 nylon lock-nuts, 3 silver hose clamps, 1 black hose clamp, 2 small screws, 3 small bolts with washers, and a small bracket to attach the snorkel body to the A-pillar. Foam fender gasket Fender template (whoever packed mine up forgot to include this, so I just used the fender gasket as a template, which, for this application, I think works better.) Detailed instructions and parts list as well as exploded drawing You will need to buy: A universal air intake tube (available at AutoZone for about $20, this is the one I used. A 3" air intake mounting plate (this is what I used. Permatex Ultra Black Silicone Gasket Maker 2" rubber pipe cap - a PVC one will not fit over the air box hole, a rubber one can be stretched over it with some coaxing. 1 longer stud with the diameter and thread of the existing studs. An extra half inch is really all you need. You will need several tools, including: 13mm closed end wrench 13mm socket ratchet Drill 16mm (11/16") Step bit (Unibit) 95mm (3 3/4") hole saw (optional, as you can use the grinder to make the main hole as I did) Grinder with cut off wheel (or Reciprocating saw, grinder works better) An assortment of screwdrivers, both phillips and slotted 3" hole saw 3 1/2" hole saw Large heavy cloth The instructions that Safari provides are VERY GOOD. I will provide detailed instructions, as they are included with the package, however, I will also provide tips based on each step, and where the Safari instructions do not apply, I will include modifications based on what I did. The Safari instructions will appear in italics. 1: Removed left front wheel and wheel arch liner. Remove boom bottle from behind guard. Remove indicator from guard. I did not remove the wheel. I had plenty of room to work. If you're stock, you might want to consider it. The wheel arch liner has to come out for you to gain access to behind the fender (guard as it is called in the Safari instructions). The "boom bottle" is the big intake resonator that is in your fender. You do not have an Indicator on your fender, so you can skip that part. There is a big wiring loom inside of the fender, leave it clipped in for the time being, until you're done making your outer-fender holes. It is sufficiently out of the way to avoid any damage. 2: Remove air cleaner assembly, including pre-spinner. The R50 does not have a pre-spinner, so that is not a necessity, but removing the Air cleaner assembly up to the MAF plate is necessary. You will need to cut a 3" hole in the side of the bottom portion of the air box for the plumbing from the snorkel. You can do that now, or later. 3: Tape the template to upper rear corner of left hand guard. With a felt tip pen, mark out al holes, including new indicator position. Drill a 4mm pilot hole for each hole position. Drill the main hole to 95mm using the hole-saw (2 holes required). Drill the remaining five holes to 16mm using the step drill. This is where I started to really differ from the provided instructions. After this point, I really didn't follow them much, except where I had questions. I used the foam gasket as a template. You want to tape it so the top corner is at the top corner of your fender, on the outside of the lip, not on top of it. You may need to take the snorkel body and maneuver it around on your truck a little bit to get the proper positioning. This is where I marked my holes to drill. I used a silver Sharpie, as it is easier to see on the black. You'll also notice that I put markings where the corners of the gasket are. I made these markings a couple of days ago, and wanted to be sure I aligned the snorkel and gasket up properly to re-check the holes before I drilled them. You should always double-check your holes before you drill them. The the top hole farthest towards the door needs to be very accurate, as there is a structure reinforcement behind where you're drilling that does not allow you to drill out to 11/16" using a step-bit. It should actually be place about a half inch farther back from where I placed it. I had to use a drill saw to ream out the hole a little to get it aligned with the stud. You will need to buy a longer stud for this position as it does not quite line up with the provided stud. An extra half-inch is really all you need. I used a grinder, with a cut-off wheel to cut the main hole, as I couldn't find a 3 3/4" hole saw. Neither Home Depot nor Lowe's carries one. I suggest using a grinder instead of a recip saw, because you're working with rather limited space back there and the recip saw doesn't do curved cuts very well. A metal jig-saw with a small intrusion will work as well. The farthest forward mounting hole I drilled out to 7/8" as it was also mis-aligned a little bit. My fault though. 4. Using the air hacksaw, join the two 95mm holes together. Also cut out the new position for the indicator. De-burr and paint all holes. This step can basically be omitted, as you will likely be using a grinder to cut the main hole, and do not have a side indicator. You will need to deburr the main hole, but if you use a step bit for the other holes, they are self-de-burring. I do suggest squirting a little bit of paint on there to prevent corrosion. 5. Remove door sealing rubber from "A" pillar. Install mounting studs to snorkel body and place snorkel on guard. Verify position of upper mounting bracket in relation to standard trim screw (see drawing for details). * Trim windscreen moulding to clear upper mounting bracket (see drawing for details). Install upper mounting bracket and mark out the remaining two holes. Remove bracket and drill a 4mm pilot hole, remove trim and drill holes to 8mm. Deburr and paint holes. Insert plastic plugs and refit trim. Install upper mounting bracket and refit door sealing rubber. This is a very wordy step. It spells out pretty much exactly what you have to do, except that the top hole in the bracket will not line up with an existing screw. You will have to drill 3 screws into your A-pillar for this. I used some #10 x 1" self drilling screws for ease. It worked out very well. I did NOT trim the moulding, but it could have been done. It worked out fine without trimming it and the door clears just fine. Intermediate step not necessary on the Navara. You will need to put the snorkel onto the fender and align it with the a-pillar bracket. On the inside of the fender, there is a structural support that will need to be cut in order to plumb the snorkel. You can do this one of two ways. You can either use a grinder and cut the obscuring portion away and route your plumbing between the fenders, or you can cut a hole through it and route your plumbing straight through. I chose the latter. You will need to remove the fender for this step. Using the 3 1/2" hole saw, I had marked where I needed to cut and cut out a 3 1/2" hole through the inner fender into the engine bay. I then selected a location on the air box to drill out a 3" hole to connect the universal air duct to. After you have done this, position the fender back on the truck, and make sure that your plumbing will align with the hole. If all is good, bolt up the fender and continue on with the Safari Steps. If not, ream out the hole in the direction you need using a recip, air hack, or drill saw. Do not use cheap tools for this, as it is hardened steel and it will break them. I broke a Harbor Freight drill doing this. 6: Place foam body gasket onto snorkel and position snorkel on guard, fasten snorkel using necessary hardware, including rubber washers (see drawing for details). Can't get much more self-explanitory than that. I will say that it won't line up perfectly, but it's pretty close. With the lengthened top-rear stud, you should have no problem getting the nuts onto all of the bolts. 7: Fit connecting duct to snorkel, refit air cleaner assembly minus the pre-spinner. Smear a small amount of silastic in connecting duct at air cleaner side. Fasten all hose clamps. This step is different for the Pathfinder since you must drill out a hole in the air box to connect the plumbing. Fasten the connector plate to the air box in the location of your hole, and connect the universal duct to that. Use a generous amount of the RTV silicone to seal it up. Use the silicone on the snorkel side too. Use the provided hose clamps to hold it all together. Don't forget to cap off the 2" hole on the bottom of the air box with the 2" rubber pipe cap, and silicone that, too. 8: Refit indicator lens and wheel arch liner. Reattach your plastic wheel well liner. 9. Install air ram and fasten. Attach the snorkel head to the top of the snorkel body and secure it with the black hose clamp provided. You do not need to seal up this portion, as it is going to be pretty durn high up. If you removed your wheel, this is the time to put it back on. If you disconnected your MAF sensor to gain access to the bolts on the MAF plate, don't forget to reconnect it. Check underneath your hood for tools before closing it up. Make sure that all your fender bolts are torqued to the proper specifications, and that all bolts, and screws, are tight and secure. Wait until the silicone is dry, and take your truck for a test drive. This will actually give you a slight performance increase over stock, as it is a true cold-air intake, since it is drawing cool air from up by the roof. It also increases the air flow into the air box and engine by increasing the size of the hole in the airbox from 2" to 3". You did what I did and forgot to install the rubber cap on the other hole on your airbox, didn't you! Well...go back and take everything apart and put it on. :X I trimmed the top corner of my fender to allow the snorkel to fit more flushly against the fender. Alignment: It's not perfect, but it's not terrible either. Finished Product: The head sits slightly crooked, since the snorkel is angled more towards the vehicle on the Pathfinder than the Navara (Australian Frontier). But, if that's the only real issue with it, then I'm happy! Driving Impressions: The truck feels snappier, even compared to the JWT Pop-Charger. It holds speed on the freeway much better than before, partially due to the ram-air effect of the snorkel, and partially due to the cooler, denser air it is drawing in, and still partially due to the larger volume of air it is drawing because of the larger hole in the intake box. I do NOT see the snorkel at ALL from the drivers seat. It is completely hidden behind the A-Pillar. I see a little bit of the fender portion on the fender, if I'm looking for it, but it does not obstruct the drivers view in any way. I am 110% completely extatic that I installed this snorkel! No...scratch that...1000000000%!!! It's amazing. The looks that I get on the road are incredible. Everyone is looking at me like... :eek: Is that a snorkel on a Pathfinder!? It's great! I can't wait to get back to the east coast to test it out in the water and mud!
    1 point

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