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Hi All I own a 1991 Pathfinder fitted with Z24 (Australian Delivered) and Weber 32/36 DGV 5A. I'm about to add air conditioning from a parts car (1986 Pathfinder) and was wondering if anyone has fitted an idle-up/fast idle solenoid to their Weber setup before? Couple of things here would be whether I could adapt the factory Nissan solenoid that came on the carby Pathfinder to the Weber setup, or would it need to be wholly aftermarket? I was able to find this post on an MG forum where they've used a solenoid from a Chevy Citation with L4 2.5L - so this could be the route I need to take: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/idle-up-solinoid-for-weber-32-36-with-a-c.1144450/ Cheers Brendan

There are couple or work arounds if you find the knock sensor is bad: 1) splice in a resistor but I don't remember which one, should be searchable, I did that as a quickie to pass smog 2) relocate the new knock sensor on top of the engine (which I did eventually) I think instructions searchable here as well.

The knock sensor code doesn't mean that the engine is knocking. If the computer hears something it doesn't like, it pulls ignition timing until the noise goes away, but it doesn't tell you about it. The knock sensor code means the knock sensor isn't working. The manual says to check the sensor (should be 500-620k ohms), check the harness, and loosen and retighten a couple of grounds on the engine. Diag starts on EC-320 of the '02 manual. The catch is that the knock sensor is under the intake manifold. Unless there's a VQ-specific shortcut that I'm not aware of, or you have an exceptionally cooperative pet rat, you'll have to remove the manifold to access the sensor. I had a knock sensor code on my '93 a while back. Turned out the sensor was bad. Unless you hear pinging, I would ignore it until you're back home. The knock sensor is there for emergencies, and not used in normal operation. (I have wondered if the computer might pull timing out of caution if it knows it's got a bad knock sensor, but I have found nothing in the manual to support this.)

Ha, I just did this the other week to pass emissions (it worked). But, a few things to know: I started with Dorman 42109. They're like a mile long and comically shiny for something you don't want to be visible, depending on where you are and how emissions are done (no concern for you since WA doesn't do emissions). However, the length is fine for the driver's side, but on the passenger side it'd be a tight fit because the sensor will be up against the transmission. I ended up not even opening the package and returned them. I used Dorman 42009, which are shorter and also a little on the shiny side. However, these need to be drilled out sufficiently to clear the sensor tip... Lastly, and perhaps the most important part: keep in mind these are sold as "spark plug de-foulers/non-foulers" and are not meant for O2 sensors. In my case, I realized that the O2 sensor on my passenger side has a tip that much larger than the sensor on my driver side. So even after drilling them out, it would not fit on the passenger side without compromising the threads of the adapter. If you go this direction and the O2 sensor tip is too big, this approach likely won't work. A 90° might be okay and clear the passenger side.

I have done this with a different vehicle. On the downstream it works to trick the ecu, definitely don't use it upstream.

Try NissanPartsDeal, Amayama, and Partsouq. Otherwise you're stuck with with aftermarket. I got OE head gaskets from Amayama, shipped from the UAE, somehow cheaper than NPD had them in (I assume?) the US, so check them against each other. But sometimes Amayama turns out not to have what they think they do. I tried ordering a dipstick tube from them, only to get an email the next day that they didn't actually have it. I think they take the order and then see if they can track stuff down from their suppliers. I haven't ordered from Amayama or Partsouq since the tariffs got weird, not sure how they're dealing with that. My dad tried ordering parts from the UK recently and was told they had no idea what the charge would be by the time the stuff got here, and they just didn't want to deal with it, so they weren't even accepting US orders. I got the OE tstat and water pump ("pump ass wat" in Nissan parts speak) via NPD, NSK idler and Bando belt off Rockauto because I couldn't find OE. Can't speak to the quality of either, haven't even installed them, given the engine they were going on turned out to be a doorstop. Years back I put a Gates belt and pump on my VG30, and they're still holding up 30k later, but I've heard some complaints about Gates since.

Alright, got it through emissions and re-registered! Only 8 months late... Last night I installed a non-fouler on the downstream driver's O2 sensor and it seemed to do the trick. Not only did the P0430 not move to stored to screw up my day, but it's also no longer in pending. Steering was a little more squirrelly today. I need to get to the bottom of that. But otherwise, the truck is operational. Hoping to do a shakedown run soon.

Pulled it out to give it a wash today.

Gidday All, below is copied form my intro thread to get the ball rolling, will have updates next week! My name is Pete and I am from Victoria in Australia Here's My Old truck - 86 with a Z24. I had this thing for 11 trouble free years and I don't know what made me sell it but the second it drove off I regretted it. Fast forward a few years and it just came over me that I had to have another one. A few months of shopping I found this old girl and picked it up for a song. An '86 like my old one. The thing that sold me on this particular car were the condition of the body and the interior. Anyone into these cars will know how hard it is to find nice trim bits. And here is the only rust in the car, being a dry inland car After picking it up I got 50 km before it started overheating. Stopped, cooled it down, topped off the water and put a new radiator cap on, got another 10km and it overheated again. .. And again. Luckily we have roadside assist and they covered the tow (180km). First steps are to address the overheating issue. Will start with new waterpump, radiator and thermostat. If that doesn't fix it I still have a spare engine from my old pathy. Then I'll fit a 32/36 Weber, Extractors, remove the LP Gas Conversion. I know most of you are probably running VGs but I've always been a Z24 fan, and had a great run out of them. Over here the VGs have a rep for being a bit of a fuel guzzler. I'd like to find a set of factory wheelarch flares and do a lift and fit 31s. I'll be sure to update on progress but will be slow as the car is kept on a rural property I own, so I'll only get to work on it a couple of times a month. If you made it this far, thanks for reading! Keep the shiny side up! Peter

Removed the drivers guard to do a rust repair, a bit worse than I originally thought but this is the only rust in the entire car, so I can live with it! Found a 2wd D21 king cab at my local wreckers (interestingly I very nearly bought this car about 4 months ago, now I've got a few bits off it for the WD.) Snipped the bottom off the RH guard to help in my repairs, should get the repair done over the weekend. More small, slow updates soon Stay safe and healthy FGF