I suggest leaving the spacers out entirely, but if you do feel the need to use them then definitely wait until later after the coils have settled. With manual hubs you can get around the CV binding issue for the most part, but they won’t save you off-road when the hubs are locked. Me personally, I want to know that my CVs won’t break when off-road under non-extreme conditions, so I went with the AC coils up front
One thing to mention about rear coil installation, forget about spring compressors. I have done it twice, both in a tiny garage and on a two post lift, and never *NEEDED* to use the compressors. It’s an extremely easy job. The first spring I did, I used them to help, but once I figured out how to drop the axle far enough I never needed them again.
You just need to do 5 things in order:
1. jack up the frame where the front of the rear lower control arm is bolted
2. disconnect the shock at the lower mount
3. disconnect the sway bar end link (the bottom end of it)
4. The whole time you should have a second jack or the OEM scissor jack under the axle supporting it, and then lower it as far as necessary
5. Once its low enough, push UP on the coil (hard, it might be a bit rusted into place), then pull it out sideways, and reverse the process for installation.
For the right side the process is identical, but you also have to undo the right side bolt for the panhard rod as the last step to get enough droop. Only thing to watch out for is the brake lines. They will be slightly tensioned at the necessary droop for 9449s but not to the point of damage. Still worth it to be careful though, as I have no way of knowing the condition/length of your specific brake lines
For the front, just make sure that all notches and marks are oriented correctly in the struts, and that you use OEM parts for the bearings and mounts
Edit:
Almost forgot to mention!
You have the AUTO Tcase like I do, so be aware that it will hate the addition of manual hubs. Mine has been giving me some trouble since I installed the hubs, the computer is confused about the lack of “correct” sensor data coming from the front and you’ll probably see a 4WD warning light after a long stretch of highway, and maybe other weird stuff.
You will also have to consider the fact that with the hubs unlocked, your TCase won’t be pumping fluid around because the pump operates by way of the spinning front shaft under normal locked conditions, so it’s best to lock them a few minutes before switching to 4wd so that it has time to circulate the fluid.