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Earlier in the year a family friend gave my a 2004 Pathfinder that her daughter had basically abandoned after the rear trailing arm broke. I got him home, replaced both rear trailing arms, and the track rod. Found out the transfer case was bad, found one for $25 from a salvage yard and put it in. I now need to put an exhaust system on it and replace the rear brakes. The interior is pretty nasty but just in need of a good cleaning. I also need to remount the 3rd brake light. Once I put oil in the engine, it ran super smooth. By next week it should be running and driving so that I can move onto the next phase of putting on some new tires and doing a full detail (I don't like driving filthy cars).

OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com

We're going to level 3 (which is pretty much level 4 with UberEats) on Tuesday. Then to Level 2, which allows restricted domestic travel, in a further fortnight. As a practicing doctor at a New Zealand hospital, frankly I am very grateful for the lockdown. If not for Ardern's quick response, we would be in dire straights currently, I think (based off what's happened in the UK, US, Italy etc). Anyhow, unfortunately I lost the progress shots off my old phone when it broke, but I have a few later shots I took. Essentially the hooks were mounted to 6x150x75 mm angle iron, drilled to fit the factory mounts on the side of the chassis, with an additional 6 mm plate underneath to the radiator support, so the hooks bolted to 12 mm of steel. I used grade 8.8 M10 bolts torqued to the correct spec (43 Nm) to mount to the chassis. The hooks themselves use grade 8.8 M12 bolts, which I torqued to the correct 78 Nm. The design and build is very strong, much stronger than what the mounts are bolted to. I would however recommend putting a single piece of angle iron across the lower radiator support to brace it, instead of two individual plates, one either side like I did. I bent my lower rad support doing a big pull with a bridle, and a front lower brace would have prevented this. The iron is oriented so the 150 mm side points up. The 75 mm side points out horizontally and the hook bolts to this. The lateral bracing plate sits underneath the 75 mm side, and connects the hook bolts to the lower radiator support captive nut where the factory hooks bolt onto it. The lateral bracing plate should not be built in this manner - rather it should be constructed out of a single piece of plate or angle iron to tie both sides together and brace the lower rad support across its full width. It looks so shiny in this picture because it had just been returned from the panelbeater after someone backed into it outside my house and destroyed the front right corner...

Here's my video on 3.3 #6 plug removal. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk